Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Sep 09, 2005 12:23am | #1

   Norse,

   The chuck probably is mounted on a short tapered stub.  Have you looked at the stub and the mating part on the back of the chuck, what condition are they in, and is this where the slippage is?  Also what is the model number of the drill press?

   John W.

2. 
   BrentS | Sep 09, 2005 01:28am | #2

   Don't use a hammer and block to seat the chuck. Instead put the chuck on and press it up as much as possible by hand. Then place a piece of hardwood on the drill press table and with the lever lower the chuck into it. Use a fair amount of pressure and the chuck should be well seated. This, of course, will only work well if all mating surfaces are free of dirt or any form of lubricant and there is no damage to the mating surfaces.

    

   Brent

3. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 09, 2005 02:34am | #3

   I have re-seated the chuck with a hammer and block to no avail.

   OH GOD.....

   Could be just some dirt or somethin' in there.. I'd flush out the tapers with good clean oil (yes.. as in lay the drill head on it's side) Blow out with air if you have a compressor...

   Grease in the taper can give you fits.. Oil OK as I see it...

4. 
   trialnut | Sep 09, 2005 04:09pm | #4

   Norse

   You have had some good advice given so far and some not as good. The way we allways did this in any machine shop I ever worked in was; Pull it apart and clean the tapers with solvent. Make sure there are no burrs or raised spots from dents on any of the mating surfaces, if there are, carefully remove them with a fine honing stone using a rocking motion and intruding on surrounding area as little as possible. The idea is to remove any metal that sticks up above the original surface without changing the original surface. This is harder to do on the internal taper but also seldom needs to be done on the internal. After all burr removal is done wipe the parts down with acetone (it leaves no residual film). Now take a piece of chalk and rub it all over the surface of the male taper. Give it a gentle thump on a wood block to knock off the excess. Now assemble by sliding it together and using the feed lever press it together. Put a good parallel block of wood on the table and again using the feed give it a couple good solid thumps on the wood block to seat it solid.

   Using this method it should never slip or fall apart on you during even heavy normal use. Rough or improper use (too much side loading) can cause them to come apart. If it comes apart during normal use then the tapers are buggered up beyond repair and it would need to be replaced.

   Rich

   The Professional Termite

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 09, 2005 06:48pm | #5

   No oil at all?..I have wood and metal drill presses and many other metal working tools with tapered chucks..I have always used a quality oil film on the taper.. NOT alot... Just wiped on with a cotton pad.. I never had a problem..I will try the chalk thing! Hope I can get it apart!

1. 
   trialnut | Sep 09, 2005 10:37pm | #6

   I take this that where it is coming apart is the taper where the mandrel fits the chuck rather than the morse taper that goes up into the quill of the drillpress. If the morse taper is spinning then the tang on the end of it must be missing, otherwise it should not be able to turn more than a degree or two. If the morse taper is falling out then burrs and bumps need to be removed.  I do agree that a very very light film of oil can be wiped on the morse taper but I usually prefer to just wipe them down with mineral spirits and let them dry. It leaves a film that seems to protect against rust without being slippery.The Professional Termite

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 10, 2005 06:09pm | #9

   Thanks I'll try the spirits too!
   Not my Jack Daniels though..

5. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 10, 2005 07:26am | #7

   Norse
   Drillpresses with short tapered stubby spindles are not Morse tapered They are Jacobs taper (Usually Jacobs 33.)

   Most imports and plenty of American made chucks are NOT original Jacobs, but cheap 'knock offs' Most industrial quality DPs utilize a taper bored spindle suitable for Morse tapered tooling. The use of Jacobs chucks on these machines, requires a combination Morse to Jacobs adapter.
   That is: long, Morse taper with tang to fit spindle plus Jacobs short taper to fit Jacobs (And look alike cheapos.)

   If your chuck has suffered from extensive spinning or slippage, it might indicate a worn stub on the spindle permitting the stub to 'bottom out' in the chuck.
   Any dirt, debris or chips can have the same effect. As noted in previous posts, cleaning and/or honing may be only what you need .

   If not, while the spindle is revolving, use a mill file to remove a small amount from the stub end to reseat the chuck

   Don,t force the chuck against a block with the jaws extended.
   Rather, open the jaws back all the way into the chuck ,then twist and press it on.
   I have a Milwaukee 1/4" drill that suffered with spinning off and it drove me to distraction Guess what ? ... A little filing of the stub end and it hasn't spun off in the last ten years.
   Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 9/10/2005 12:30 am ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   polarsea1 | Sep 10, 2005 07:50am | #8

   Last resort - Loctite 609 or 620