Replies

1. 
   Ximro_ne | Jul 29, 2007 05:21pm | #1

   Guess I should add, my main purpose is trim work in my house and cabinet building.

   Steve

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 29, 2007 10:45pm | #2

   As far as trimming out a house is concerned, the main value of a 12" miter saw is its greater capacity when cutting large crown moldings.Many carps struggle along just fine with a single bevel saw, but I vastly prefer the convenience of a double bevel.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

   Edited 7/29/2007 3:46 pm by nikkiwood

2. 
   mudman | Jul 30, 2007 12:19am | #3

   Your question is a tough one. All the trim that goes into normal (even higher end) homes can be cut on the 716. It is rare to find 8" one piece mouldings. given that the 716 is a lot better. If you know that you will be working with unusially wide mouldings then the slider is the way to go. I have needed the sliding saw's capacity twice in the last 4 years and I rented one at Home Depot for $20.

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   kdrab206 | Jul 30, 2007 03:14pm | #4

   I bought the Dewalt 712.  It's a good saw and worked well for all the trim work I did in my house.  I wish it beveled both ways, but that wasn't really a deal breaker for me. 

   Trevor

1. 
   Ximro_ne | Jul 31, 2007 01:24am | #5

   Thanks for your input. I have been looking/googling for any 712 reviews and have not found one on the web. So I came back here for some advice. 

   I got the 712 based on input from the guy at Woodcraft. He does a little trim work and mostly cabinet work. In his selection of a Dewalt chop, he felt the smaller blade presented less deflection problems and has not added a stabilizer to it, a concern he would have with the 716 and that 12" blade. I was going to check into Forrest blades for this as I love my tablesaw and circular saw Forrest blades.  

   As far as crown, he isn't building any really large ones and I wouldn't be either so that didn't seem to be a big issue. He wasn't concerned about the bevel only because he uses a BenchDog crown jig and that pretty much solved his issue for the single bevel. 

   Will also look at some Amazon comments tonight too.

   Hard to believe I haven't found a review on that 712 though. Usually every mag does at least one on these saws. May have to look for a cousin of the 712 that was reviewed.

    

1. 
   mudman | Jul 31, 2007 05:06pm | #6

   JLC (Journal of Light Construction) did a slider review about 2 years ago. Maybe more reciently. They included 8" saws. The models haven't changed so the reviews should be accurate still.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   Ximro_ne | Aug 01, 2007 02:13am | #7

   Thanks. Saw they have an article in 2004 but you have to buy it. That's 3 years old and I would think it's accuracy is getting a little long in tooth. There have to be some upgrades in these saws in 3 years. I would guess.....

2. 
   mudman | Aug 01, 2007 07:58pm | #9

   Actually i dont think there has been any changes. I will look for the article in "the pile" to see if I still have my copy.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

3. 
   Ximro_ne | Aug 03, 2007 04:52am | #11

   Thanks for checking.

   I have one of those 'piles' too, thanks to Finewoodworking.com.

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Aug 01, 2007 04:20am | #8

   Steve,

   Let 'em all howl but a RAS (Radial Arm Saw) will cut bevels all the way home.  Mine handles up to 24", just clean 'em up on the jointer.

   Keep 'em on the 90 and use jigs to set the angle.  Gotta love it!

   And they're cheap.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

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   Edited 7/31/2007 9:23 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

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   Edited 7/31/2007 9:24 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

   
   

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   Edited 7/31/2007 9:50 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

1. 
   mudman | Aug 01, 2007 08:02pm | #10

   I have a 50's era dewalt GA and I agree that it is a superior machine in every way.... except it weight 500 or more pounds! For finish carpentry that won't cut it, so to speak.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

4. 
   amazon | Aug 04, 2007 05:10am | #12

   I have the 12" dual bevel Dewalt.

   I got to tell you; I rarely (if ever) use the dual bevel. My experience tells me to recommend to you the 12" single bevel design.

1. 
   justinh | Aug 04, 2007 04:08pm | #13

   For trim work the 716 or the earlier model 706 are hard to beat. They can cut all but the largest mouldings in position. With a little jigging I have cut 8" crown in position on mine. I feel that cutting in position is more accurate than on the flat because you are relying on the accuracy of a scale with a +/- 12" radius rather than one with a +/- 5" radius. Odds are you'll be closer. The cut lines are also always easily visible and cutting in this manner for me is more efficient. CMS's have fewer moving parts than a slider so there is less chance of something going wrong. Once tuned up they stay that way. I check mine once a week and rarely have to adjust it. They are accurate and durable which is why most trim carpenters I know, including myself use them. Full kerf blades almost eliminate deflection. A blade stiffener on these saws would take away from their cut capacity. The single bevel CMS 715 does not have the capacity the 716 has with crown as the motor gets in the way.I have used the 712 when helping out a friend. It has roughly a 3 1/2" vertical capacity. It was a decent saw and was accurate, but like you said it only bevels one way which for trim work is slower because it means you need to flip and rotate the material(often 16' long) rather than the saw and requires more thought. He does handrail for a living so the saw is great for him. It cuts through a newel with no problems and the sliding capacity lets him cut most of the waste for a newel notch. For wide boards I rely on my TS55 and a rail. Before the Festool saw it was a Makita sidewinder and shoot boards. Look at what you need out of the saw and what you will be using for most often beyond your own home and make your decision based on that.Justin