Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Jun 26, 2021 11:59am | #1

   I have mine set as flat and even as I can.

2. 
   elmaduro | Jun 26, 2021 10:45pm | #2

   I've had good luck avoiding snipe by setting them flat and then using a longer cleated melamine aux. sled.

3. 
   revbob | Jun 27, 2021 07:03am | #3

   Perfectly flat here with no problems.

4. 
   geedubbee | Jun 27, 2021 07:57pm | #4

   The "ten cent solution" is a common fix for lunchbox planers that are prone to snipe. If you are not getting snipe I would leave things alone. Since you are asking I will assume it is a problem.

   Elevating the outer tips of the tables so that a straight edge stuck through the machine is about the thickness of a dime (therefor the name) off the platen is a common solution. This only works for certain lengths of boards as it is an intentional feed path deviation-type solution.

   The DW735 can get snipe for all the usual reasons and from abuse. Dad once fed a tapered piece of material the wrong way into his planer and it jammed spectacularly. The result was one of the collars that ride the posts had actually gotten loose. The one corner of the whole head unit would flex under load.

   Some quick surgery and a re-snugging of the positioner nuts / lock washers solved this. Can you describe your snipe experience? One side more than the other (left to right on the machine)? Some materials but not others? Depth of cut aggravates the snipe?

1. 
   nordichomey | Jun 28, 2021 09:27pm | #7

   Yes... all of the above. My results have been inconsistent. Mostly snipe at both ends and I seems heavier of the left. An auxiliary board helped a lot. That... said I got frustrated and did not use it a lot. I am just finishing a flip cart for better (no lifting) access, bought a good 48” straight edge and about to try a bunch of experiments. Thanks for the heads up

5. 
   _mj_ | Jun 28, 2021 07:19am | #5

   When I had a lunchbox the only way to eliminate snipe was to run sacrificial pieces before and after or parallel to the good stock. I would use whatever I had lying around. The goal is to have both rollers up on something before and after your stock is being planed. 18" sticks were enough.

6. 
   dustindawind | Jun 28, 2021 08:29am | #6

   On my last couple passes I lift a little on the outfeed end of the board as it comes through. This virtually eliminates snipe for me. Don't know how good it is for the machine but I've been doing it for about 4 years, and it avoids a lot of extra work.

1. 
   nickb213 | Jun 29, 2021 07:06pm | #8

   I do was DustinDawind does also and it works great for me. My 735's auxiliary tables are not flat so I set them so that the outer edges (further from the cutter head) are inline with the main table. I also never move the main, it lives on a special stand in the shop, so I never seem to need to readjust it. Also to get the tables even I used a veritas straight edge(38") and some feeler gauges. Hope that helps.

7. 
   asymptote | Jun 29, 2021 11:23pm | #9

   To fix mine, I used a dime and a penny(stacked) as GeeDub suggested. One penny wasn’t enough on mine. Also, from the factory, mine wasn’t true across the bed and the cutter head. It was off about 30 thousands. After correcting both, I rarely get snipe. Boards over about 5’ still need some minor care in feeding but that’s to be expected IMO.

1. 
   john_c2 | Jun 30, 2021 04:45am | #10

   Keep going Asymptote, you're almost there!