I have a Dewalt dw735. I have a big job coming up that will require planning lumber to the same thickness, but I dont want to do it all at one time due to the size of the job. I want it about 7/8″ thick but the stops are 3/4″ to 1″. Would you move the depth stop bolt to a temporary spot? Is there a better way to insure uniform thickness throughout the job? Thanks for your ideas.
Edit: it will be a large built-in bookcase. 5 sections. I plan to build 1-2 sections at a time due to shop space.
Replies
I would run everything a 1/32nd larger than the final dimension. You can that at different times then when your ready take everything down to the final dimension.
Good luck
Keep a bit of the first job stock to hand as a gauge. Get close to that then sneak up on the fit. It's easiest if you run pieces about 30cm/1ft long then you can put them side to side on a flat surface - your finger or raking light will quickly pick up any discrepancy.
If you REALLY want accuracy then cut a dado slot in some scrap and match your first pass to that. Subsequent batches should just fit. This method is more vulnerable to snipe though so make sure you put the side of the board into the slot, not the end.
Realistically, tiny variations in thickness between adjacent units will be invisible. assuming 18mm, you only need to be within 1/2 to 1/3mm for there to be absolutely no perceptible difference, and I would challenge anyone to spot the difference between 18mm and 19mm planks at 1m distance. You could just measure and accept the small variations.
I'm not familiar with your planer. On mine I can trap a piece of wood between the ridged body of the planer and the bottom. I would carefully make a mark on the scale at my final thickness. I sometimes make up blocks like that when I make something and figure I might make the samething at some other time. If I'm lucky and I can find the thing when I want it then maybe I can reuse jigs I made for the first run-if I can find them!
I would make a block of wood that fits tight but not trapped so you can just slide it in and out. When you go for your second round when the mark on the scale and the block agree and the result agrees with your caliper that should be it. I usually just trial and error using my calipers. If the first run and the second run are the same on the calipers then I figure they're the same. I agree with the above replys but particularly with getting all your material close from the start or why not do it all from the start and put part two aside?
Thanks for post, its too helpful for me.
https://www.tellthebell.kim/
Dial caliper.
Been doing it with a dial caliper for 20 years.
The solution is as simple as holding an ⅛" setup block between the ¾" stop bolt and the stop. (I'm not familiar with this planer but your description makes it sound like a plunge router with its rotating turret of different stop depths) doing this will give you the most accurate results IMO.
I like your idea. It sounds like a good possibility and be able to use the stop bolt like I hoped. I will check into it when I get back to the shop tomorrow. Thanks.
The dial caliper is a quick and easy way to do it. Another is to install a wixey digital gauge on your planer. http://www.wixey.com/planer/
I've found it very useful in so many ways but when trying to match thicknesses it speeds up the process.
Have the same unit. Added the Wixey accessory and have never looked back. It's dead-on accurate when set up per instructions and makes it easy to return to a thickness every time. That's even after a few days between usage. This really helps when you have to remake a part. YIKES!!!!!
I've found that my DeW 735 holds the the thickness accurately from one board to the next. When I get to the depth needed with the first board, I just run the remaining boards through. I get to the final depth in increments and run each board in succession only then changing the setting. I don't use the dial gage and determine the final thickness with calipers.
I have a DRO on my planers but, calipers work just fine.
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