Replies

1. 
   user-83153 | Feb 22, 2007 09:24pm | #1

   Chris,

      Good question. One would think it would work at first glance, but after thinking longer the fact that shellac burns in to  the previous layer may cause some problems. So I guess my answer is I don't know, you could try an adhesion test on a piece of scrap for a definitive answer.

                  Rob

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 22, 2007 09:33pm | #2

   You can get almost any color shellac in a dewaxed version eliminating any issue.  See http://www.homesteadfinishing.com for a good selection. 

   However, to use the dewaxed as a barrier coat over waxed you would need to eliminate full scale burn in, with the best way to achieve this being to spray several dry coats of the dewaxed, well spaced over time, instead of one heavier coat. 

1. 
   cwalvoord | Feb 22, 2007 09:50pm | #3

   Yes, good advice. I usually just go with dewaxed shellac from the start and I have ordered lots of stuff from Homestead and been very satisfied.In this case I am making an end table from cross section of an oak log and I tested a huge number of finishes trying to get just the right color and to bring out the growth rings. I had a can of Zissner/Bulls Eye amber shellac laying around so I tried it, along with everything else I had laying around, and liked it the best. I originally planned to put a round piece of glass over the top so I was not worried about protection, durability, etc. SWMBO decided that she liked it better without the glass so now I have to either just go with the shellac and know that it is easily repairable or try to put on a more durable top coat. I guess I know which choice Frenchy would advocate. ;)
   Chris

1. 
   user-83153 | Feb 23, 2007 04:34am | #5

   You could also use an oil-base non-poly varnish which would be a better finish anyway. If you use a soya oil based varnish it wouldn't darken the finish much if at all.

      Rob

2. 
   Kevin | Feb 22, 2007 09:54pm | #4

   Excellent advice, Steve.

   Incidentally, for those not familiar with it, this is the exact same technique for "bridging" over fisheyes or any similar surface flaw where something in the existing coat can interfere with the adhesion/leveling of the topcoat. It is a long-established technique used in automotive refinishing.