Replies

1. 
   user-394086 | Mar 27, 2002 08:35pm | #1

   It seems to me that a digital caliper is overkill for woodworking. I would get the least expensive caliper from a decent manufacturer. I seem to remember seeing good quality plastic ones in "Woodworker's Supply" catalog. I think it's made by General in Switzerland. There are also some decent ones in the Grizzly catalog. (FWIW, I'd take the Swiss plastic one over the Grizzly stainless one)

   If you're going to use it for something that really requires precision, you might want to look at the traditional machinist's brands: Browne & Sharpe, Starrett, and Mitutoyo. You're going to pay handsomely for those, though.

   Let us know what you're going to use it for. Machine setup? If you're going to measure wood tolerances with it, I think you have a very frustrating woodworking career ahead of you ;)

2. 
   sschefer | Mar 27, 2002 08:39pm | #2

   Jim, any measuring device of this type is only as good as the ability to keep it calibrated. Make that your first purchase decision priority if you plan on keeping it around for any length of time. Personally, I like dial indicators because I can see the needle deflect. It just seems easier to judge if it is serious enough to worry about or not. With the digital models I find it difficult to see small deflections since the numbers change so fast. This worries me, so I tend to feel uneasy about what the guage is actually telling me.

   Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?

3. 
   Elcoholic | Mar 27, 2002 10:42pm | #3

   I have the General Plastic dial type and use it mostly when I'm planing.  It's especially usefull when I'm thickness sanding plys for laminations.  Those 64th's can really add up with 10 or 12 plys.  The last time I used it 0 was at 6:00 instead of 12:00.  Somehow the gears must have slipped.  For the price I'll get another one just like, although I'd love to have a Starret.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

4. 
   Dutchy1 | Mar 28, 2002 12:13am | #4

   I own a dial and a electronic one. The electronic caliper (Sylvac) needs two (rather expensive batterys) every year. The dial caliper is a Mitutoyo and I use it only for special purposes like machinist work (metal turning and milling)

5. 
   RickL | Mar 28, 2002 01:14am | #5

   For measuring stuff I usually go to places like http://www.use-enco.com

   6" dial calipers are under $16. Good enough for general metal work and more than enough for woodwork. Be careful though...the sawdust can jam up the caliper. You can also use a tape measure for accurate measuring of planed stock. If you take four peices of 1" planed stock and measure them together it will amplify measurements. 4 pieces of 1" that measures 4-1/16" means each board is 1-1/64" give or take a few thousandths. My dial caliper is used all the time.

6. 
   Andrew | Mar 28, 2002 03:07am | #6

   i have a digital caliper, and while it wasn't cheap, i take good care of it and it comes in handy from everything from machine setups to layouts. there are a few things i really like, being able to switch back and forth between metric and imperial instantly, and being able to zero it at any time. it is also nearly impossible to misread a digital caliper.

   it is a bit of overkill for any measurement on wood, but for machine set ups it's a great tool to have. BTW, if you decide to buy high end measuring tools, my advice is to go with mitutoyo. they're the same quality as starrett but a bit less expensive.

   if you go with a digital caliper, the difference in price between a high end and taiwanese brand isn't worth it unless you plan to do high precision metal working. hope this helps

1. 
   bill_1010 | Mar 28, 2002 04:59am | #7

   FYI i believe Highland Hardware offers a dial using fractions as opposed to 10ths.

1. 
   Novy | Mar 28, 2002 07:03pm | #8

   Doesn't anyone use a vernier type anymore ?On An Island By The SEA

1. 
   SCFrankland | Mar 28, 2002 07:32pm | #9

   That is what I use.  I will usually read my measurement off a steel rule.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

7. 
   cudavid | Mar 28, 2002 07:38pm | #10

   Hi, electronic are nice, but not necessary. The best of ther best is a Brown and Sharpe 6" about $90.00 from MSC or?? Thes will allow you to read 1/2 of a thousandth! 0.0005   These ar not needed, a 50.00 pair will wortk well also, but if you want to feel quality and accuratecy, go B&S   good luck

8. 
   TomFerreira | Mar 28, 2002 07:51pm | #11

   I have a dial caliper and find it much easier to use because it is visual. the digitals (I have used both) allow for mistakes because you have to translate the number to a visual reference. At least thats my spin on it. I have a starret which cost me about $100.

   TDF

1. 
   sschefer | Mar 28, 2002 08:09pm | #12

   I'm with you Tom. I like to see that needle bouncing around. Makes me feel more comfortable for some reason.

   Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?

9. 
   AntzyClancy | Mar 29, 2002 02:33am | #13

   For woodworking you do not need anything more than a plastic $20 dial caliper.  They are accurate to better than 1/64" which is all you'll need.

   Todd

1. 
   RickL | Mar 29, 2002 03:03pm | #14

   Why would anyone want a $20 plastic dial caliper accurate to 1/64" when for $13.95 you can have a metal caliper accurate to .001"  from Enco?   I do use that sort of accuracy around my shop for various operations but I do metal work as well.

1. 
   AntzyClancy | Mar 29, 2002 03:33pm | #16

   My point is that you do not need that kind of accuracy with woodworking.  The Enco sounds good, however, I doubt that you get 0.001" accuracy with it.  Just because it has 0.001 graduations, doesn't mean that it is accurate to that amount.  There is a reason Starett calipers are over $100.

   I just picked up my Enco catalog and on the same page as the 13.95 caliper there is a Mitutoyo for $147.85 with 0.001" graduations that claims an accuracy of +/- 0.002".

   Todd

1. 
   RickL | Mar 29, 2002 11:00pm | #17

   For the work I've done with wood and metal combined, the Enco caliper is fine for my needs.  It is within a few thousandths tolerance.  At times I do need to know where I am in regards to less than 1/64"  especially in shimming 2  piece shaper cutters and fixtures I have made. Once I had to make drill guide with 20 bushings spaced equally and I used small blocks cut on the table saw to space them .   A cumulative error of 1/64" would have made the jig 5/8"  longer than required over the length of 20 bushings which would have been unacceptable. 

1. 
   Quickstep | Apr 03, 2002 06:04am | #18

   I'd agree that a digital caliper is overkill from an accuracy standpoint, but I want one because it will be easy to read.

2. 
   RickL | Apr 03, 2002 04:57pm | #19

   Actually the cheaper digital ones are as accurate as the $14 dollar Enco.  I've seen them as low as $40 (Grizzly).  I have an off brand, meaning imported, I picked up in an automotive supply store that's not bad but I still use my Enco's for the most part.  It's just as easy to read the dial as a digital read out. The only advantage for me on a digital is I can change where zero is for certain applications. 

10. 
    DGibbs73 | Mar 29, 2002 03:11pm | #15

    Don't waste your money on a battery powered digital,

    the battery will be dead just when you need it. For woodworking

    a dial is fine even for machine setup if you have it calibrated

    correctly.

    David

11. 
    user-6931264 | Apr 04, 2002 05:11am | #20

    I had the same issue some years ago. Bought a Mitutoya digital guage available from most industrial supply shouses. Failing that, get a Starrett.

12. 
    HeidiDad | Apr 05, 2002 01:08am | #21

    In my opinion, there really is a reason that Starrett wants $100+ for their dial rig.  It works.  Today , tomorrow, next week, next year, next century.  If you only want to buy one once, buy the Starrett and take care of it.  If you want to read less than .001", get one of their micrometers that read .0001".  (Then you can study the effects of humidity on wood)

1. 
   user-394086 | Apr 08, 2002 06:50pm | #22

   I just ordered the 4" dial caliper from Grizzly for $11.95.  I'm not expecting Starrett quality, but within a few thousandths will be fine for me.  My dad has worked in factory maintenance for years and he says the Starret, Mitutoyo, and Browne & Sharp are the best.  When I asked him if he thought the Grizzly would be accurate, he said it would more than accurate enough for woodworking.  He said the better brands will be more accurate, and probably made from better steels and steel alloys.

   He also said he's had experience with some plastic ones and that they work just fine.  He told me he'd rather have a Swiss plastic one than a Taiwan steel one. (General has a Swiss plastic digital one for $60 in Grizzly's catalog)

   Anyhow, I'll let y'all know how the $12 Grizzly compares to the $100+ Mitutoyo when I get it.

13. 
    ecomma | Apr 11, 2002 05:03am | #23

    I have a Mitutoyo my dad gave me years ago.  He was a machinist for over 40 years and found this one, beat-up behind a milling machine in his factory.  We sent in back to Mitutoyo for reconditioning and the thing came back calibrated and looking like new.  I don't know about the electronic ones, but if I were buying one, I would look hard at one made by Mitutoyo, Brown and Sharpe or Starrett.  Eric

14. 
    Jimbo | Apr 12, 2002 02:50am | #24

    Just want to thank everyone for their advice and opinions.  I ordered a dial caliper from Highland Hardware for about $35.  The main selling point for me was the dial being large, clear, and in fractions.  Just what I can handle.  Very happy with it except the plastic "crystal" has a few bubbles, but for the price I can overlook it.

    Thanks again,

             Jim

1. 
   SlyCook | Apr 13, 2002 07:09pm | #25

   A couple of thoughts on calipers for you.

   I bought a Mitutoyo dial and never regretted it. I don't baby my stuff. It's gone some distance through saw dust and can be rebuilt. Since it is occasionally the bearer of bad news, that may be necessary someday.

   Life runs on too many batteries already.

   Many of the dimensions I use are generated from spreadsheets and read in inches with decimal fractions. The caliper, a 24" Starett decimal rule, and a Stanley decimal tape fit that program nicely.

   I use it to check stock coming out of the saw and planer with the jaws of course. But the most useful feature is the other end. The slide is great for setting cutters and fences to critical dimensions and checking hole depths.

   The thing about precision overkill for woodworking? Maybe. But it's important for me to have my equipment dragging me up, asking me to get better, showing me how much more I can do. Today, there are things I know I can improve. When I get there, it'll be fun having my measuring tools let me know it.

   Helen