I’d like to swap out my water stone for DMT 3×8 diamond stones. I find my water stones are just too narrow when using the Veritas honing guide. Not to mention the convenience of using diamond plates.
I usually sharpen my plane irons to 8000 grit water stone and then strop with good results. With diamond I see some people stop at 1200 and then strop.
My question is, what is the diamond plate process most people are sharpening to? Would 300, 600, 1200, and then strop be sufficient and sharp enough for planning hard maple, walnut, oak etc…
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Don't ask questions about sharpening techniques, you will get 1000 different opinions. Me myself I have a complete set DMT all the way up through XXfine but I only use them for coarse work or kitchen knives I prefer the more polished edge I get from 3M films on glass plates for my wood working tools. I sharpen to 1 micron (~14,000) and can shave the end grain of Hickory with ease. I also have complete sets of water stones upto 10k but don't use those because of my current shop having no running water and the mess associated with them and I don't believe in strops.
So my recommendation would be a couple course diamond stone for the heavy work and inexpensive glass plates and films for finishing, Taylor Tool works sells a nice set with 3 5" x 12" glass plates and 7 films for less the $50 last I checked. I put one grit on each side of the plate and I have 6 different grits ready to use with only a spritz of water.
There you have opinión #1
I use the DMT 3x8. I only use the coarse to reestablish the primary bevel if the secondary gets too wide.
I use the fine (600), extra fine (1200) and extra-extra fine (8,000). Then a few strokes on a Spyderco ultra fine ceramic stone, which is also a 3x8 size.
That's what I do for all chisels and plane irons.
I use a combination of DMT diamond stones followed by silicon carbide wet/dry paper on a glass flat from Taytools. I never hone finer than 2000 grit and have had good results. I never strop either. I guess I never could master the technique because I always end up dulling the edge on the strop.. In the end, whatever you do to get an edge you are happy with is the "right" technique for you.
In another thread someone strongly recommended Leonard Lee's sharpening book. I just ordered it on Amazon, a used version (very good condition) was $8 and change. Have not received it yet. I have my methods now (diamond stones + honing guide) and hope to improve them after getting the book.
Speaking to the 1,000s of options comment above, I like to use my laser vision to sharpen the edge of my plane blades.
Terry Pratchett suggested using cobweb and sunbeams for final sharpening...
I have three DMT stones - coarse, fine and X Fine - these don't leave me with a razor edge, at least not the way I am using them.
I finish with a Yellow King stone (No idea the grit - about 10,000 I think) and that gives a nice polish. I get a mirror shine with green compound on MDF.
Have a look at ths FWW article, which compares several sharpening systems: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2002/08/01/sharp-and-sharper
I've been using diamond stones (as Paul Sellers discusses in his YouTube videos and blogs) for the past 6 years. I use coarse, fine, super fine, then strop. I've been happy with the level of sharpness. For Lie Nielsen A2 steel, I start with an extra extra coarse diamond stone first.
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