Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Nov 17, 2005 09:05pm | #1

   Hi Ned,

   A mortise chisel is far beefier than a regular bench chisel; the bevel angle is steeper to keep more steel behind the cutting edge, and the sides are flat and 90-degrees to the bottom. They are meant to withstand the mallet work required when chopping out mortises by hand, and resist twisting out of line under use.

   A good mortise chisel will serve you well; a poorly made one will frustrate you. Ashley Iles and Lie-Nielsen are supposed to be producing a line of high-quality mortising chisels; Barr makes wonderful mortise chisels, but as far as I know they're oversize for timber framing. Mine are old ones of very high quality.

   You probably don't need an entire set. If you start with a high-quality 1/4" or 5/16" mortise chisel, that may be all you'll need for quite some time.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   ned7 | Nov 17, 2005 09:14pm | #2

   Thanks Jazzdogg,
   That was the direction I was leaning, pick up one or two off the LN site. I am not looking to do any timber framing, but you never know.;)

2. 
   John_D | Nov 17, 2005 09:41pm | #3

   It's a lot easier to clean out a mortise with this chisel, as the 90 degree angle on the side helps you square up.

3. 
   AdamCherubini | Nov 18, 2005 04:48am | #4

   Drilling and paring is a crude way to cut mortises which limits the quality of the mortise and your ability to cut angled mortises, mortises in irregular stock etc. So a proper joiners' mortise chisel probably won't make a substantial improvement in this technique.

   That said, its easy to cut mortises directly with a real/good mortise chisel. A good joiner's chisel like the new Illes chisels at http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com should never have square sides or it would get stuck in the mortise. Though Illes chisels are plenty strong, I think mercilessly beating on them is a ridiculous way to use any tool. I like a pretty low bezel angle, 30 degrees at most on mine. I essentially pare out my mortises using my shoulder to push the back of the wide handle, malleting only the ends of the mortise. This is fast and effective, and provides tons fo control.

   For furniture work, I recommend starting with the 5/16" chisel (for 4/4 stock), then saving up for a 1/4" later. The larger sizes are more difficult to use, and I find less use for them. Though I have all the sizes, you could just use 2, 1/4" or 5/16" miortises side by side for wider stock.

   i personally wouldn't consider any mortiser but a traditional english joiner's chisel like Ray Illes, or maybe 2 cherries for new chisels or an antique in decent shape. The advantage of antiques is clearly the laminated blade. The disadvantage is that they are often far from flat and may require as much as an hour or two to put right and rehandle.

   Good luck with your new chisels whatever you decide!

   Adam

   
   

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   Edited 11/17/2005 8:50 pm ET by AdamCherubini

1. 
   ned7 | Nov 18, 2005 06:13pm | #5

   Thanks Adam for your in depth reply. I also appreciate your tactfull way of saying there is a better way to do it. I did not understand it fully until I went to the web site. Thanks for that info also. I now have a better understanding of why people would need these tools. Sigh, it certainly underscores how much more I still have to learn. To be honest, I am more than a little doubtful that I can teach myself to cut our mortises this way. I like your suggestion on what sizes I need if I am going to go this route. There is an idea for a piece that would require angled mortises, so I will have to learn some time.

1. 
   biscuitjoinERic | Nov 18, 2005 10:58pm | #6

   Ned –Adam offered the soundest advice but I wanted to add a note or two of my own. Like you, I too am just now expanding my woodworking skills, transitioning from all power tools to more hand tool use. Mortise work was something that was extremely frustrating for me as well. I’d butchered my share of good stock before wised up enough to pick up a Tage Frid book and, more importantly, dedicated myself to practicing sound technique. I also invested in a decent mortise chisel (L-N).I can’t describe how much better my work is now. Though, had I read Adam’s post earlier in my search I would have considered those Ray Illes.Eric

4. 
   Troy | Nov 19, 2005 03:30am | #7

   If you want to chop your mortises buy had a mortise chisel will make it easier. Tools for woodworking has a video buy the late Jim Kingshott and he does a excellent job of showing the hows and whys of cutting mortises and tenons.

   Troy

5. 
   DCarr10760 | Nov 19, 2005 05:08pm | #8

   Ned,

   Years ago in FWW there was an article, I think by Eugene Langdon about making mortise chisels, he made a 1/4-inch chisel out of this huge tapering chunk of tool steel, for the handle he used solid brass knife style scales.  He said that it was similar in design to an English Pattern chisel

   I was intrigued by this, but as I already had a Sorby chisel it was mostly academic.  Recently I was looking on the net and stumbled across this:

   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-MORT.XX&Category_Code=TBMC

   I was reminded or the Langdon article so I decided to buy one (1/4-inch).  It is pricey but what a difference!  It's beautifully made and the extra cross-sectional height and mass really helps to guide the chisel when you are chopping the mortice (not just squaring up one that was drilled).  It's so strong you can really pound it hard with no fear!

   I don't want to sound like a commercial, but I recommend them (FWIW).  I really like Ashley Iles tools anyway.

   By the way, before I got the Sorby years ago, I snapped the tip off of an old Buck socket chisel chopping a mortise, so yes a mortice chisel is important if you are chopping mortises.

   David C.

   Note: since I cant figure out if the word is spelled: mortice or mortise, I have decided to use both alternately!  DC

1. 
   pzgren | Dec 02, 2005 10:12pm | #9

   <<Note: since I cant figure out if the word is spelled: mortice or mortise, I have decided to use both alternately!  DC>>

    

   I won't claim any expertise here, but from my reading, "mortice" appears to be primarily English usage, while "mortise" seems to be the usual American spelling...

   Edited 12/2/2005 2:13 pm ET by pzgren

   Edited 12/2/2005 2:14 pm ET by pzgren

1. 
   DCarr10760 | Dec 03, 2005 12:04am | #10

   Thanks!

   Reminds me of a British friend who said that the US and UK were two countries divided by a common language!

   David C

6. 
   Yogi | Dec 03, 2005 04:41am | #11

   My copy of "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" has Frid explaining how to drill and square up mortices-  Somebody should tell him this isn't the way to do it and that he should buy some expensive chisels-

7. 
   philip | Dec 09, 2005 11:29am | #12

   Squaring off the rounded ends of routed mortices is easier done with a proper mortice chisel of the right width, so a few matching mortice chisels would make a good gift for somebody who does not have them.

   Philip Marcou