Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Apr 03, 2021 08:32pm | #1

   Glaze rather than stain will be easier to match. Go too far with the stain, it's hard to remove.

   Once the color is right, I'd go over the top with water based poly. It won't further change the color, and it will add a lot of wear and water protection.

1. 
   WoeMannequin | Apr 11, 2021 05:56pm | #9

   Thanks, John! I will test out the water-based poly and see how it looks. It seems like a decent middle-ground of protection and simplicity.

2. 
   mikaol | Apr 03, 2021 08:41pm | #2

   Hey,
   1st, I'd work to the darkest wood. Meaning; I'd try to get the other woods to its color and start from there. Forgive me but the first thing I'd do is remind myself to forget 'perfect.' I go with good, better, best. But enough of my madness.
   My opinion - shellac can hold its own against human and solar invasion. You can add poly if you want it but it's not essential, keeping in mind poly can chip & warp.
   Another option is to tint poly and use that only. You can try different mixtures in different containers, like paper cups, until you get the tint you want.
   Hope any of this helps you.
   Mikaol

1. 
   WoeMannequin | Apr 11, 2021 05:52pm | #8

   This helps a lot, Mikaol. Your perspective on perfection is also spot on. I think you're right about shooting for good/better/best. I want to adequately preserve someone's hundred-year-old craftsmanship, but however it ends up will be better than how I found it.

3. 
   _mj_ | Apr 03, 2021 09:25pm | #3

   If you plan to use a glaze, seal the wood with something that has a different base than the glaze first. This will darken the wood to its own finished color and give you a true starting point. It also makes the glaze reversible to a degree. Once your color is good, topcoat with whatever you used to seal it. Shellac on the inside and outside would work with an oil based glaze for instance.

4. 
   fivebirdscustom | Apr 04, 2021 03:54pm | #4

   Clear Shellac, then your tinted shellac, then poly.

   I use shellac for a lot, and use it as a top coat a lot. I love it.

   But, for stairs, polyurethane will help protect it. I would go with oil base, I think it's tougher. Granted it takes longer to cure, but, in the end it'll stand up as well as anything. I've used the floor poly many times with great results!

1. 
   WoeMannequin | Apr 11, 2021 05:41pm | #6

   Thank you! It is great to hear from someone with shellac experience. I wondered about starting with clear first, so I will test this out, along with the poly topcoat in hopes of avoiding the plastic look that some people complain about.

5. 
   _mj_ | Apr 05, 2021 07:27am | #5

   If you go with poly, use it for the base and top coats and a shellac based glaze in between. The ability to work on the color or even remove it to start over without sanding back to bare wood will be preserved.

1. 
   WoeMannequin | Apr 11, 2021 05:45pm | #7

   I appreciate the advice, MJ. Sealing the wood with a different base as you suggest would never have occurred to me, and fussing around with the color over a poly base could save so many hours. I'll give this a shot!