I’m making another workbench using Strong-Tie connectors and 2x lumber. This time I went to Home Depot for both, but the lumber was too small for the metal connectors.
Now, I know that 2x lumber is going to be smaller than 2 inches, but Home Depot’s lumber was even smaller than expected–it measured about 1-1/4 inches. The last time I bought lumber was at local lumberyard; that 2x was larger than HD’s and the metal connectors fit snugly.
The clerk said, “Oh, you want ‘rough cut’ lumber. We only carry ‘finished’ lumber here, but you might be able to get rough cut at another Home Depot.”
Is this true–are there three measurements for lumber: Nomimal, rough cut, and finished? And is 2x really supposed to be only 1-1/4″?
Edited 10/27/2002 9:18:53 PM ET by DWREAD
Replies
Back when I first 'got acquainted' with framing lumber, a 2x4 was 1 5/8 x 3 5/8. Now days, when I dimension a framed structure, the accepted dimension for a 2x4 is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. So I'd say no, it shouldn't be 1 1/4". However, it may be due to more shrinkage in their lumber than acceptable by a bonafide lumber yard.
In ripping apart our new place in preparation for some remodeling, I measured the depth of the second floor joints since I'm framing in a portion of a two story area. The joints measured 9" to 9 1/4". The house is almost 20 years old so this might be due to some shrinkage as well.
"rough" lumber I would think would measure a full 2" x 4". It wouldn't fit in the framing hardware.
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For years nominal 2 x 4 have been actual 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. Rough cut would have to be closer to the 2 x 4 dimension. No less. I have heard of the industry going to thinner stock due to deforestation, but I cannot confirm that. I have not heard it officially. If I were to but a 2 x 4 today, I would expect that dimension to be 1 1/2 x 3 1/2.
Was the lumber advertized in HD as 1 1/2 x 3 1/2? or 2 x 4? I should go and check the HD in town to see what size they have. I'll check it.
The lumber at HD was labeled 2x2 and 2x3. I checked several pieces to make sure it wasn't a fluke, but all the 2x faces were too small for the connectors.
Did you happen to notice a grade stamp on it? I'm curious about the point of origin.
No, I didn't look for a stamp.
Wood is a product that varies a lot. It may have been 1 1/2 x 31/2 when shipped from the mill (SD19) which means shipped to dry @19% moisture or KD19 Kiln dried to 19%and evan that varies a lot.
Once it dries out it will shrink some more. how much varies by species. a quarter of an inch is on the high side but not unusual.. the standard for just about any construction grade wood is plus or minus a 1/4 of an inch.
My mill which sells me rough cut lumber cuts a 2x to about 2 1/4 to allow for shrinkage while drying. That varies by at least 3/8ths of an inch sometimes more...
If you want to be a machinist work with metal, if you want to work with wood understand that things change a lot.
For example if you leave that 2x outside in damp air for a few days it may swell up to well over 1 1/2 or if you are in a dry climate shrink evan further.......
If that bothers you, wait untill you find out that 3/4 inch plywood isn't and neither is 1/2 or 1/4 !
But what do you expect from something brought up in the wild?
Edited 10/28/2002 12:34:17 PM ET by frenchy
I notice that Whitehall has router bits that are size-adjusted for the true dimensions of plywood.
What about wood substitutes? Is 1/2" MDF really 1/2", or just a bit smaller?
Most MDF is correct, not all, most!
In over twenty years of working with it, I've never run across 2x stock that shrank that much. Shrinkage in the thickness of 2x dimension lumber to 1 1/4" would cause any building inspector I've ever dealt with to fail a job it was used in. I'm wondering if you are seeing European lumber cut to metric European sizes, or Canadian lumber that was cut for the Japanese market.
I'll hazard a guess here. 2x2 and 2x3's are not studs and therefore not subject to the normal grading rules. All bets on standard sizes would be off.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Metric, maybe?
Just kidding.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
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I just came back from HD. I took a measuring tape and got to work on some of the studs they had laying around. All the ones I measured were 1 1/2" thick, including some 2 x 3's. The timbers were all cut and milled in the state by one of the biggest and surviving milling yards in the area. To get to HD the trucks had to travel about 2 1/2 miles. In this scenario, humidity is all the same, and hence no change in thickness. Seems a little hard to believe 1/4" change in dimension for what should have been 1 1/2" finished thickness -- but I could be wrong.
What part of the country is your Home Depot?
I double-checked my lumberyard 2x4s. Most were 1-9/16" in the 2x direction (none were less than 1-1/2"), and exactly 3-1/2" in the 4x direction. Some are rough cut, others smooth.
Kalispell, Montana.
I was checking mostly to see if there were any near 1 1 /4", not the case.
Are there any regulations specifying an acceptable range for lumber?
Underwriters Laboratories (UL) has a directory which specifies stud and joists thicknesses used in fire rated construction to be a certain minimum size - depending on the overall wall rated construction as a system.
The Western Wood Product Association, Southern Pine Inpection Bureau, or West Coast Lumber Inspection Bureau are but a few of the organizations out there who may have some info on tolerances allowed for a 2 x 4. The tolerances are industry standards and I would suspect they would stay up to 1/8"+ or - at the most. More likely to be plus or minus of 1/16" for the 1 1/2" dimension. I will try and find out in more detail what the tolerance allowed is exactly - out of curiosity.
I E-mailed Strong-Tie to ask about sizes of lumber and how they fit their connectors. Their response:
"Per the NDS (National Design Specification), solid sawn 2x lumber is 1 1/2" thick. Rough lumber should be 2". There may be variations due to moisture content, but generally that would cause the thickness to be greater."
I'm not familiar with NDS, but it sounds as though they suggest standards, as opposed to setting requirements.
Well, there you have it. It makes sense in that all the stud lumber has been kiln dried. Any change in moisture can only be an increase and hence the swelling. Unless you are building in Death Valley. I emailed a coulple of places for info, I'll see what I get back.
Marcello
Keep in mind that construction lumber is not dried to the same moisture content as furniture lumber. Generally, construction lumber is either "dried" to 19% or at best to 12%. If it is labeled "KD" it is probably dried to 12%.
One major reason for drying construction lumber is to make it less expensive to ship.
> ....If it is labeled "KD" it is probably dried to 12%.
I had a contractor ask me one time "What does KD mean; kinda dry?"
(grin)
Dennis in Bellevue WA
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