Replies

1. 
   CStanford_ | Jun 28, 2000 05:33pm | #1

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   I'd wait a full day between applications of both. I'd simply go with the Antique Oil or McCloskey's Tung Oil Finish, or Watco. They've already done the work for you by thinning the product and optimizing the forumula for success. Keep it simple.

   I'd go five coats of any of the Danish oil or penetrating tung oil finishes, followed by a waxing with a high carnauba content paste wax like Liberon Professional. You are varnishing the table, you are simply doing it in small increments that allow you to control the right amount of surface build that suits your taste.

   Don't let anybody sell you the bill of goods that it's not durable enough - it is. I use these types of finishes all the time and they wear very, very well.

   You'll hear talk of water rings, blushing, crackling from heat, etc. These are not occuring to the wood itself, they are occuring in the layer(s) of film finish. You'll eliminate most problems by using the ultra-thinned varnish products already mentioned.

   I'm a crusader for penetrating finishes. I've sprayed drums of lacquer, brushed on pounds and pounds of shellac (I actually still like shellec for certain looks), and brushed a lot of regular varnish. All these techniques should be in your repertoire, but you'll get the most joy and trouble free use from simple penetrating oil/varnish finishes followed by a good waxing.

   The Liberon is tough to buff out, but it can be buffed to a very high sheen. It dries fast, so you can get your wax coats done in one day. You'll need a machine to buff it out. I use a cheap Sears 6" auto buffer that cost about $30. It works fine and it's quiet enough to use in the house.

   Buy a can of "stuff" and get after it.......... By the way, I'd sand the last three coats using 400 to 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The surface will be smooth as a baby's behind.

1. 
   Rod_Cole | Jun 28, 2000 05:45pm | #2

   *I believe Antique oil is oil & varnish, so will be softer that varnish alone. I would use the 50/50 varnish/thinner for a table top. I like to use naphtha as the thinner as it dries faster than mineral spirits.I do not like to use paper towels, although master finisher Jeff Jewitt likes paper towels. What I like best are children's old, but clean, white athletic socks. They are a good size and hold a lot of finish without dripping. If you have a source of these, you most likely have lots of them! Old T-shirts are fine too.Wipe on and let be. It will start to dry very fast, so if you go back in a minute or so, you will get rag marks. If you miss a spot, just get it next time. Use a wet but not dripping rag, to put on a wet coat. You do not need to be careful about direction and such as it will flow out nicely.Put on 6-9 coats. Recoat every 1-4 hours (depending on temp, humidity, etc.) for 3 to 4 coats in a day. If it does not glide on, that is the rags seems to drag a little, wait a little longer next time. No need to sand between coats put on a couple of hours apart; the finish does not cure that fast. Put on a few coats, let sit over night, and lightly sand with 400 the next morning to smooth, rub out to a uniform no-gloss with gray scotch brite, and put on a few more coats. Repeat until happy with the finish.Wait a couple of weeks and buff to perfection. By hand is fine, but a wool bonnet on a random orbit sander is easier. If needed, wet sand lightly with 1000 to smooth first. If you have a real buffer, you're ahead of me! I like to either use pumice or automotive polishing compounds (Maguires #4 for low semi-gloss, #2 for high semi-gloss, or #9 for high gloss. Other brands are likely just as good.) You can also rub out with #0000 steel wool for a very nice semi-gloss finish.Best of luck,- Rod Cole

1. 
   Jed_C. | Jun 28, 2000 07:10pm | #3

   *The previous two responses have given you good advice, but to answer your questions simply:1) Yes.2) Flood the surface and wipe off the excess.3) Allow each coat at least overnight to dry, longer in cool, moist air.

1. 
   Rod_Cole | Jun 28, 2000 07:38pm | #4

   *Oil finishes (or oil/varnish) should dry overnight between coats. The very thin coats of wiping varnish do not need to dry overnight before recoating. The oil causes the "oil" finish to dry much more slowly than straight varnish.Flood the surface and wipe off excess if using an oil finish. I suggest you do not wipe off if using a varnish, although some people do.I make no claim to having the experience of CStandford, but I would not use an "oil" finish on a dining table that will get much use. Durability is not the issue. If an oil finish wears it is a simple matter to put on another coat. The issue is resistence to what gets spilled. No problem if you wipe it right up. But instead of arguing, I suggest trying some of the oil on a board, then leave a wet glass on it over night. In the morning it will be easy to decide if you will have to worry about guests leaving wet glasses and such on your table.It also depends on the look you want as oil finishes look different that varnish finishes.Ultimately, your best bet is to make up a fully sanded scrap board and try both to see how you like the looks, and abuse them a little to see if you think they'll hold up ok.- Rod Cole

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Jun 28, 2000 10:52pm | #5

   *First, Minwax Antique Oil is an oil/varnish product almost identical to Watco. It is not a wiping 50/50 wiping varnish. While an oil/varnish will provide an excellent finish for a light use surface, it is not durable enough for a tabletop.Follow Rod's instructions for applying a 50/50 thinned varnish. The thinned varnish will give a more durable finish than an oil/varnish.