I’m making a red oak trestle table and benches for a friend, and I’m wondering what is the most durable finish I can use? I don’t want poly, as I want it to be repairable in the future without having to strip it. I’m filling the grain, coloring the filler to match where the grain won’t be filled, and matching a set of chairs they want to use with it. Is varnish my best bet? Or is there something else that would be better? Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Jerry
Replies
For true repairability lacquer is the choice. A little more resistent to chemicals and heat than shellac it was the finish for all fine furniture from after WWI until about 10 years ago. But compared to varnish, either traditional resin or with polyurethane added, it's a lot less durable. Any choice of finish involves trade offs. In most cases the quest for durability is overdone. Furniture given reasonable care does quite well finished with shellac or even less protection oil/varnish mixes. A few coasters scattered about and furniture life can be many decades of attractiveness.
Desired appearance is also a key in deciding on finish, and should probably be given a higher priority than pure durability. An oak trestle table sounds pretty casual, especially teamed with benches. I think such furniture looks best with an in-the-wood finish using an oil/varnish mix such as Watco. Most dings, beyond mild surface scratches, that it would take over the years would also show with the toughest of catalysed varnish.
The other direction to go is to use a film finish. In my opinion a film finish on oak can look pretty cheap unless the pores are fully filled. So, instead of 3 or 4 wiped off coats of Watco the finishing schedule becomes more complex. Start with a very light wash coat of shellac or heavily thinned varnish. Then apply pore oil based filler. With red oak it will likely take two applications several days apart. Then after letting the pore filler cure for a week, you can apply 2 or 3 coats of varnish, sanding between coats. After letting that cure for at least several weeks (a month is better) you can rub it out to what ever sheen you want. Or, you could apply lacquer if you have spray equipment. You don't need to let it cure nearly as long before rubbing it out.
One thing is true for sure. It is always best to make experiments on scrap before starting to put materials on the actual project.
Thanks, Steve. I use lacquer, and have HVLP, but I was wanting something maybe a little tougher. They have small kids, and like to have family over. I agree about the plastic look on oak, I personally don't care for red oak. But they are keeping their chairs, and I'm trying to match the finish on them as closely as possible. I like the repairability of lacquer, and that may be the way to go for them. I feel I must fill the pores on the top of the table and benches to keep the old food aspect out of the picture.
Thanks for your input.
Jerry
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