I previously posted about a maple table base that I’m going to build which will have a granite top. I found a very relevant article in a 1988 FWW magazine. The author suggests (and made it seem like it was obvious) that only the inner 2 sides of the legs would typically be tapered, the outer 2 sides being left square (untapered). I have picked up the wood and will soon be ready to start the project, but I wanted to seek some guidance on this specific question first. Silly me, I figured all 4 sides would be tapered. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Brian
Replies
Brian,
From what I read the inside edges for a leg are tapered to give it a lighter looking appearance, not a clunky looking leg. Since you said that this will have a granite top, you didn't say how big the table will be or more important how much the granite weighs. I would think that these could be 2 deciding factors. If it is a small end table or a bedside table tapering the legs should have no ill effects on the design. If it a large table I don't think that I would taper them.
Greg
Brian,
Usually only the two inner sides are tapered, as a design consideration. People generally prefer the sqaure look of a inner taper, as opposed to a tapered-base look with the outsides tapered. A lot would depend on your design, as well as perhaps strength considerations. Do whatever suits you best.
Woody
Thanks for the quick responses. I did not realize that about the tapers. I think the tapered legs will have a clean, more modern look (the new kitchen is quite contemporary). The wood I have is about 3.5"x3.5" square (but still needs to be planed and prepared). My general thought is start with 3" square where the aprons meet the legs, then taper to 2" over what will be about a 22"-24" length (from the bottom of the apron to the floor). I feel like that should still be beefy enough to support the weight of the top. Any reactions on the suggested dimensions (visually) and whether I should be concerned about the weight would be appreciated. Brian
Hi Brian; I have made a number of tables. I first make my table joints while the legs are square, i.e. mortise. I then use a tapering sled on my table saw. Think out which taper side to cut first, so you can rotate the leg to the taper cut side up for your second taper cut. Make your taper cuts on the inside of your legs. Cut a small taper first on one leg. Then look at it and determine if you want to cut more. 1/4" taper for a 2" leg would be a lot. Use a scrap of 2 x 4 to test it out and look at it. Start your taper an inch below your cross supports. Good luck. Roger
What amount of taper do you consider to be appropriate?
draw it out full size----- you will be able to experiment with an infinite variety----and much cheaper on paper---than in wood.
Keep in mind WHAT wood you are going to use--------it will have considerable bearing on your choice of taper.
I made a series of small tables with slate inset in the table tops----2 in cherry, 1 in tiger maple and one in quarter sawn white oak---each species wanted a different taper-----the cherry wanted to be lighter and more delicate----the oak naturally wanted to be more substantial, and the maple was somewhere in between---- not as robust as the oak----but substantial enough to show the figure to good effect.
draw it out on paper-----and ponder
weighing all these considerations will be at least HALF the fun of the project.
Best wishes, Stephen
Hi; Regarding the amount of taper to cut on the inside two sides of a leg, it is all in the eye. It would depend on the size of the leg. I would invest in a 2 x 4 and come down a few inches from the top, for your joints, and then cut a small taper on one side on your table saw or band saw. stand it up, with a board jointed to the top as an apron, and look at it. Since most 2 x 4's are 8 feet long, cut another with more taper on it and compare them. Cut another and look at it. You will soon see which one looks best to you. I would start with one cut 1/8" taper and the other at 1/2" taper for a 2 x 2" leg about 3' long. You will probable settle on a 1/4" to 3/8" taper for a 2" square table leg. Your eye will tell you. You will be surprised at how much different just a little taper looks. When you get it right cut your real legs. Enjoy, Roger.
Brian, if this is for a Dining table , get the weight of the Granite you would be using. I built a pair of bases for a 350lb glass top. I tested each base with 450lbs. It could be disastrous if your base failed for any reason.
I am currently building a country kitchen table of white oak on the "First Lady's" orders, Brian. It will have all four sides tapered, but.... the legs will be a robust 4 1/4" at the top and drop down 5 1/2" before the taper. The taper on this one will be 1/2" to gain a 3 3/4" width at the bottom. This is an eye judgement from a mock build-up of glued and squared (details are important enough to take the time) 2 X 4 stock to those dimensions as they guys suggested.
Now.. you are going to use a granite top which relates in my mind to much more formal scenario. In that case I would rule out tapering all four sides as I am using to give my table a massive, sturdy and in-destructible look of country tables from my past that could be used to butcher meat or re-build a tractor engine on when you aren't eating. Even though my family has moved into the 21st century, we still have fond memories of the past and it's simple, sturdy life-style. ha.. ha...
My point as has already been thrown at you.... take the time to do a mock-up on scrap to arrive at your destination. Your eyes will tell you when you arrive!
"Get er done"...
SARGE..
bwiele,
Just a couple of comments from my limited experience. I've got a center island I made in my kitchen with a granite top measuring 31" square and 3/4" thick...the top alone is about 100 lbs. Your project may require cross bracing in addition to M&T for strength.
The website here featured a Garret Hack dining room side board earlier this month. I believe it had two sided tapered legs and the last four or so inches(near the floor) changed to a four sided taper with banding. The point being, lots of design options, not much carved in stone.
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