I’m looking to create a dining room table with characteristics of the attached 3 tables. We want the overall aesthetic to be chunky, simple lines, organic, and functional. We would like the top to have a distressed and hand planed feel to it while providing adequate leg clearance via a minimal height apron.
Dimensions would be 86 x 40 extending to 120 with 2 leaves.
This is my first real woodworking project but I’ve got cabinet and built-in experience and very keen to succeed.
The issues we have with the samples are the leg clearance, functional comfort of table heads (depth and leg cross brace).
My first few questions:
– Are there general plans that outline a means of designing the table base and expansion mechanism?
– Is it possible to build a hybrid of the samples without leg cross braces (correct term?) and a minimal apron so legs don’t brush?
– What materials should I consider for the top? Birch, Mahogany, Teak? I’m guessing that distressing a the latter 2 would be difficult.
Cheers,
Van G
Replies
Van,
If the table top will be substantial, you may be able to get away without an apron. Your challenge will be figuring out how to attach the legs (base) to the table top, a function which the apron usually addresses. The apron also prevents the legs from racking, which could be solved with either stretchers or big legs.
I believe the cross braces you refer to are more commonly called stretchers. There are many tables which avoid them. The Montrose example you attached has stretchers which look like sled feet and serve the same purpose. I don't think that you need to be too worried about your legs brushing. In order for that to be an issue, the table would be uncomfortably low (or chairs too high).
The wood choice is up to you. Make a choice dependant on budget, wood hardness, availablity, and appearance.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Van,
Chris addressed some of the questions so no need to repeat. I would recommend a good primer on tables published by Taunton Press, "Dining Tables." The book provides a good intro into building tables and has detailed instructions on building 9 different styles of tables. Even if the designs themselves are not what you are looking for, the woodworking techniques are what is important.
One comment regarding the table materials. Since you are after a rustic look, you might consider using reclaimed planks. Aged, reclaimed wood, even after milling, retains a patina that is unique. Once milled to desired thickness and boards are joined,you can use a plane to further flatten and smooth the surface leaving the fine lap marks and small tear outs for the look you have described that you are after. If you don't have a suitable planner then you can have a cabinet shop do the milling but be aware that you will be liable for damage caused by nails/spikes, etc. A reputable supplier that sells reclaimed wood usually has cleared the wood of these nasty artifacts. Another source are demolition companies.
For this type of project I would think that the base/legs/stretchers can be made of any wood that has good structural qualities and stained or painted to taste.
Doug
Edited 11/9/2008 10:37 am ET by DougGF
Van,
I forgot to mention that you will likely need to use a moderately to heavily cambered plane iron to achieve the "hand planed" effect.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Related technique..I have reground Makita 3" type planer blades with a curve to achieve the same effect....cheers,Phil.
P.S. Chris, know of any finishing carpentry work in Van/Bby area? Cheers again,Phil.
"If 'tis to be,'twil be done by me."
Phil,
Interesting idea - using a power planer. Do you see a great advantage of using a power planer over a hand plane in this situation?
Currently, I don't know of any finish carpentry jobs in our area. I have been asked several times to help install crown molding, which I politely decline.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I used it on a timber frame I did in Whistler, it worked great. The client thought the raw (RF-kiln dried) timber looked too smooth and once completed ,really looked great with all of her different lighting conditions,shadow-lines and texture wise.
I do most types of crown,trim etc. I left framing to work indoors, less stress on the back...Just completed the Walnut home theatre featured in the gallery here in Knots...
Featured here: http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=fw-knots&msg=43475.1
"If 'tis to be,'twil be done by me."
Edited 11/9/2008 11:09 pm by Philter
Ah, yes, I recall that posting. Certainly some good ideas in there, not to mention good work.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Van, one thing to consider is that in order to have anexpandable table, you need to have some sort of apron to support the multiple pieces of the top. Having a large chunky looking top, you will have to use a fairly substansial apron--
A non conventional approach to this would involve a little creative engineering.
1 thought might be to use large legs, 3"x3 or so, and do a run aprons in an "X" from corner to corner to create more of a floating look to a slab top. Then used the weight of the top to your advantage. Use a simple pegs and holes in the underside of the top to register it, and then drill a couple extra sets to accomodate for the leaves. It wouldn't be a graceful process to add and remove the leaves, but it should work as long as the braces on the legs are beefy.
As to wood choice--Mahogany is very pretty and increasingly harder to get a hold of the good stuff from South/central America. Teak is nice for a rustic look, but is very expensive these days. I might suggest you look into white oak, as it is relatively in expensive and can be had in large slabs. Maple might also be a nice choice, although it doesnt takle a stain very well in my experience.
Goold luck
Peter
www.jpswoodworking.com
I thought good or Norm made one on a program but I cannot find it at the moment.
I did find a picture that 'may' fit what you want. Geeee. It may take forever to get there!
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.herringport.co.uk/images/ash/monks-refectory-table-tn.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.herringport.co.uk/ash.htm&h=67&w=100&sz=3&hl=en&start=93&um=1&usg=__z4ueudqER3FIL1G5dpHbD5Kg7XI=&tbnid=ZZ79Wlcs_wgx4M:&tbnh=55&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmonks%2Btable%26start%3D80%26ndsp%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7ADBF_en-US%26sa%3DN
See: Monk's Refectory Draw Leaf table (cleated top)..
I believe they have one center beam that you could adapt using a LONG sliding dovetail assembly. Sort of like those wooden dovetailed slides used for opening a table.. I for one would put in LONG Equalizer Slides (maybe two?) and hide it in good wood along the visible parts (when closed to normal size).
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=769
I am not sure I can describe it well. However, I had a neighbor once that made a table in the style you want. His table was VERY LONG! Opened for family at the whatever holiday or birthday gatherings. He said it was his first and last woodworking project. It was beautiful if you like that style. Sorry, no pictures of it.
I 'think he said he made it from old barn wood beams. As I recall the top was at least 3 inches thick. I believe the legs were chain sawn little tree trunks? I have no idea.
One thing I do remember about it.. It had bread-board ends at the normal 'ends' of a table AND bread-boards at the center where the table closed. Each half had what 'looked' liked a bread-board end at the center. It was actually a slab of wood that just set there and was fitted on square pegs to hold them in place.
He would go the basement and bring up this huge slab of wood that replaced the bread-board slabs that were removed. The slab had square holes? to fit on the pins on the table. Make sense?
Looked very much like the link provided with HIS ideas of what a family table shoud be.
Edited 11/10/2008 12:10 pm by WillGeorge
Thanks for all the great feedback. I've got a good starting point. I'll start with some sketches and a trip to Oliver Lumber to see what wood fits my price point.Can anyone suggest a source in the Toronto area that sells reclaimed lumber?
Toronto.. Been there many, many times.. Is that REALLY Canada? Just pokin a bit of fun from the USA.. Folks there were really nice to me all the time. OK, except for Customs when I brought tools. I worked in service, I HAD to have tools!
Edited 11/11/2008 7:49 pm by WillGeorge
I am considering making a fairly large dinning table made from walnut. It is not one of the woods suggested. Do you see anything wrong with using walnut?Domer
Nope!
That is a great looking table and chairs. Do you have a set of plans or know where I can get them?Domer
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