Dining Table – Project Planning Part II
I’ve got a somewhat related question to the previous thread of the same name.
I’m attempting to design a dining room table, 42″x72″, with a leaf option that’s 12″ wide. I want the top to be oval (elliptical) shaped.
My question is, how far do I take the elliptical shape? IOW, should I make the entire 72″ top elliptical, or just part of each end and the rest in the middle would consist of straight edges? I wonder if this approach would work in real-life since, on the sides, 2 people will be sitting next to each other while the edge of the table immediately in front of them is curving away from them, so to speak, towards the ends. But, afterall, that’s no different than when you sit at a round table, right? Additionally, what about the leaf? If I make it dead straight across the short dimension, will it fit in naturally where the elliptical top’s halves meet?
It’d probably be easier to make the halves semi-circular, but I’m more fond of the oval look. Am I making a big deal of nothing? Any advice is welcome.
Mo
Replies
I have designed a couple tables like this. I have always made the table full size, with the leaf(s) in, and cut the leaf out after. It will be very important for you to make sure that when you remove the leaf, that the two remaining sides line up with each other when the table is in it's smaller closed state.
Other's will tell you to make the leaf insert to fit after. Do what is most comfortable for you.
As far as design goes, I've always incorporated the elipse into the full table design. In the center of the table, the curvature of the table is at a minimum anyways. I feel that it looks better that way. With a circular table, however, it's obvious that the edges of the leaf have to be straight, otherwise they won't line up with the table.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff.
Few questions: How do you orient the grain when you build your tables as you describe? I'm wondering, if one was to orient the grain parallel to the long dimension, would the leaf lack that "bracing" (by the nature of the apron) that acts to stabilize the wood across its grain? I know that's not an issue for the rest because you don't want the top affixed tightly to the apron due to expansion/contraction. I always thought it'd be more pleasing to the eye to have the grain oriented lengthwise. Any reason not to?
Do you do anything special to ensure the two halves (w/o the leaves) fit together perfectly? Do you use a circular saw and some sort of guide? It's sounds intimidating because of the chance they won't fit together adequately.
Mo
Edited 11/11/2008 9:31 pm ET by zehutiman
I have run the grain both ways. However, when I built tables with leaves in them, I have always run the grain 'across' to avoid exactly what you're speaking. I have made one dining table that I veneered, and I ran the grain length wise on that one.
You'll definately want to use a tabletop fastener that will allow the top to move independently of the apron. Otherwise, it will definately blow up.
I have the festool plunge saw and saw guide, so making accurate cuts in tops is a synch. Before I purchased the festool guide system, I used a shopmade guide made from plywood and a circular saw.
Good luck, and have fun.
Jeff
Great stuff Jeff. Thanks.
Mo
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