Hello Everyone,
I’ve recently aquired a commission to build a display case. It’s a wall mounted type, 4″ deep, 24″ wide, 36″ tall, made of walnut. It will house the client’s late grandfather’s (a WWII vet) flag, medals, memorabilia, etc. Initially, the client wanted a frame and glass panel door on the front, but I feel that, given the case dimensions, the door would be pushing the limits of stability, and would eventually warp or twist out of square. A double door is obviously not an option, because it would obscure the view of the case contents (and he doesn’t really want entertainment center-type double glass doors). He also wants to be able to replace the glass if it should break. So, here’s what I came up with: I can rout a rabbeted lip on the front of the case and secure the glass with wood retaining strips and brads. I can then cover this with molding, mitered at the corners. My question is this…I was thinking that instead of nailing the molding to the case, I could use magnets-either strips or round rare-earth type. So far, this is the most aesthetically pleasing solution I have been able to come up with, given the client’s wishes. Anyone see potential problems with this, or have other suggestions? Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
Richard
Replies
Richard... I've built similar but smaller cases. I rabbeted the front lip as you suggested and use 4 brass corner pieces to hold the glass in place. That way, I can remove the glass to add more items into the case and I don't worying about the glass falling out. Use double-thick glass. Do not use the standard thin glass. Have the edges wet-sanded slightly round. This is a safety factor. SawdustSteve
Real quick, I've got to run: The case will rarely be opened, make one of the sides the door and make the front panel with the glass in it fixed.
John W.
Richard
I was at a big craft show this weekend and saw some cases that were built with the glass in slots in the two sides and bottom, but not the top. You could remove the glass by sliding out at the top. My idea from this was to make the top piece with a through-slot, so you would still have the trim appearance on all four edges, but could still pull the glass up through the top of the box.
I built a display case 3 or 4 yrs ago. 3 panels, 2 ea 24" x 24" and the other 24" x 32" OAL. Frames were 1 1/4" cherry, 13/16" thick. Mitered and splined with 1/4" cherry at the corners. Sealed with Watco 2 coats and waxed. Glass was 1/4" tempered, 1 1/4" bevel, edges pencil polished. The frame was rabitted in the BACK about 3/8" by 3/8", and then a bit of clear silicone rubber at the edges of the glass, and wood strips to make the glass secure. 3 brass hinges per door. So far, no problems. Put the glass in the back and the entire case is much cleaner.
Richard
An alternative to the above is to set the glass into the frame, just a bit more permanently than you described, with access to the contents by unhingeing the back. It is unlikely the contents will need to be got at with any frequency so a couple of good sized hinges & a pair of case catches (or even screws) should secure the piece.
Don
OK, I'm an idiot. I left out some info in my post. Access to the contents isn't really an issue, because the "back" of the case is set in rabbets on the back edge. It's 1/8" plywood with 1/2" thick "art" or "architectural" (or whatever its called) foamboard glued to it, covered with felt. The client is going to push the pins of the medals and ribbons into the foam, and use double-sided tape for the patches and such. Since this part won't weigh very much, it will be held in by staples bent over, like a picture frame. The flag will be housed in it's own triangular frame, which will rest on a shelf a few inches from the bottom.
Also, the top and bottom will have a crown and base molding along the two sides and front.
Hmm. All of your suggestions are great. I'd like to be able to mount the front molding permanently and slip the glass in from the top, but cutting the slot in the top and crown molding might be a little tricky. Unless I just slot the top and mount the molding flush with the front edge of the slot...man, these little jobs can sometimes present the biggest challenges. He couldn't have just asked for a Queen Anne piece or something...:)
Anyway, thanks to all for the suggestions. I'm going to print them out and take them to the shop in the morning to brainstorm.
Richard
Richard, I have made two cases like this, almost the same dimensions even. I made the backs removeable and held the glass in the front with 1/4" quarter-round moulding, stained to match the case. Case was constructed thusly:
I have this particular case hanging in my store downtown. The other one, which used slightly different joinery, is in a friend's house. [PS: I thought about a hinged door, but felt it wasn't necessary for a permanent display, and couldn't see how hinges that were strong enough would be small enough to look good on the case.]
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 9/3/2003 1:17:19 AM ET by forestgirl
Richard,
I've built two wall hanging display cases with hinged glass doors about the size you mentioned. One was pine about 19" x 41" and one was walnut about 24" x 42". I second Steve's comment, I used double strength glass (double thick) in both. The pine cabinet is about 15 years old with no problems, and I have kids. The doors are rabbited on the back side and the glass is simply held in place with push points or glazer points. I'm going to add a bead of silicon for safe keeping after reading that in several threads here (thanks all).
That size of double strength glass has some weight to it. The walnut door is 13/16" thick x 1 5/8" wide and the rabbit is deep. I put a long piano hinge on the newer walnut cabinet and liked it so much I reworked the pine cabinet to get rid of two 2" hinges.
Its a bad photo, but:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=11534.1
Enjoy, Roy
Link fixed, I hope!
Edited 9/3/2003 5:25:30 PM ET by ROY_INMD
Roy,
I tried following the link, but it brought me to a biscuit joiner discussion...
I fixed it, finally. I noticed it right away but the forum turned really slow and lunch break was over, bummer.
A large part of my business is cases like the ones you made, and I have a couple of hints.
You can get by with a lot thinner frame on the door if you put a "T" brace under the door, screwed to the carcase, with the cross bar sticking out just enough so that the door rests on it when the case is closed. It is not very noticeable, and makes the door look a lot less obvious. I have a customer who collects 1:24 die-cast model cars, and every so often he runs out of room. The cases I make for him are usually free standing, 6 ft. tall, 2 ft. wide, 3 in. deep with 24 glass shelves. I've also made a lot of wall-hanging cases with the same type door you describe. I've never had to use double strength glass. Since single-strength is so flexible, I feel like it is safer due to the fact that it will bend a long way before it breaks.
Piano hinges are the answer. On a wall - hanging case, I put them on the TOP of the carcase. That way they can't be left open and come into contact with a passing kid's head. Unless the door is really big, they work great.
I also use glazier's points to hold the glass in place. I'd be hesitant to use silicone, though. That stuff sticks to anything, and if you ever have to replace the glass, you'll have the devil's own time getting it off. I've seen people use too much of it, and when the wood moves, the glass breaks.
Cheers,
I like the thicker door on the walnut case, with 3 routed edges its not hefty looking. The pine cabinet and two other walnut cabinets with 24" x 24" doors) are 3/8" thick and no router work, just rounded over, nice clean design but-boring. I had to try a new design and wanted something stronger.
I think you have a point about the glass being flexible but I like that solid feel of the double strength. Kids jumping on the floor and I see no glass movement/vibration.
Reworking the pine cabinet for piano hinge made all the difference in the world, solid.
Enjoy, Roy
Yep, link worked that time. Very nice cabinet...now there's a collection after my own heart! Say, that wouldn't be a vintage, limited edition, 1995 box of 'Boros with the smooth aluminum inner foil, would it? J/K, excellent work.
Thanks for the nice comments. That box of Marlboro's is actually a small box of wooden stick matches, more vintage than 1995. A lot of other small things have ended up in the cabinets over the years, work anniversary pins, company, contract and mission pins and several of the shot glasses have rose buds in them from weddings and funerals.
And two bullet slugs, cut almost in half, found by my table saw blade while making a set of oak table legs.
Enjoy, Roy
To all those who responded with suggestions:
I appreciate you taking the time out to post your suggestions. Thank you. I have decided to make a "faux" door and install the glass inside it, securing with strips and brads. The door will be nailed to the case. Not exactly the most accessible design for replacing the glass, but it's do-able. Chances are that the glass will never need replacing anyway, and the case will look nicer, I think. I'll post a pic in the gallery when it's done. Again, thanks for your input.
Richard
Richard, I tried to email you, but message bounced back. If you have time, please check into the following thread:
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=13702.1
I'm curious!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forestgirl,
I'm not sure what the problem is...when I signed up w/my ISP about 3 1/2 yrs ago, I was given two email addresses, one of which I've never used. I've been a member of this forum since way before "the big move" (my other username is RRusso11), but it's been a REALLY long time since I've logged on. When I tried to log on the other day, I couldn't remember my password. So, instead of having Prospero email my password to me (which would have been the smart, quick, and easy thing to do), I tried to re-register but, of course, the system told me that my email address had already been used. I spent about an hour looking through my paperwork and finally found my other email address and used that. Then, of course, I had to choose another username... Maybe my "mailbox" is full and that's why you got bounced. I really don't know. I'm curious now, too, because I thought the system required a valid email address to register...
Anyway, sorry about the inconvenience. Send your message to [email protected] and you won't get bounced.
BTW, does Danford Jennings still post here? I've been doing some hopping around and haven't seen his name anywhere...
Edited 9/4/2003 2:05:51 AM ET by RRusso112
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