Has anybody tried making their own dovetail jig for router with any success? I’ve been thinking about it.
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Personally, I'd never try it,
Personally, I'd never try it, since I have no means of ensuring the level pf precision and consistency that is required.
I have, but they were for one-time use and only for full dovetails. I'd make them from scrap and throw them away when I was done.
I have used a router table w/fence, miter gauge, stop and spacer blocks to cut blind DT pins. Tails cut first on bandsaw. This system works great in a production type situation but would be way too slow for everyday use. It's quicker to cut them by hand.
A little bit of information on how you are going to be using the jig might get you a few extra bites.
Cheers! -Jerry
Jerry,
I'm just practicing at
Jerry,
I'm just practicing at this point. I cut some 3/4" cherry, alder and hemlock scrap to about 5" wide and 12" long and have been practicing cutting both half-blind and through dovetail corner joints using hand tools. I've been frustrated with the results so far and with the time it is taking.
So then I tried, as you mentioned also, removing 90% of the waste with the band saw before going at it with chisel and mallet. This improved both my time and execution significantly but still left me with the blind side of the half blind to do by hand.
Which brings me to the router table set up I'm working on that sounds remarkably similar to yours except that mine has a sliding platform with a vertical fence to which to clamp the workpiece and then plunge it into the 7.5 degree router bit to cut the through tails. Then I have to change to a straight bit on and attach a reversible 7.5 degree angled fence to plunge cut the pins. I'm still using the band saw to remove most of the waste to ease the strain on the router and I haven't devised and indexing block system yet but I was able to produce very good if not excellent results with my second and third attempts making through dt corners using 3/4" material. With the addition of a second router table, one for pins and one for tails, I'll be cruzin. Then I need to figure out the half-blinds.
It's been well worth the time invested in developing this system so far, maybe 1-1/2 hrs.
I guess I still need to practice my hand tool DTs, You and everyone else keeps telling me how easy and quick it is. I'm not bragging about mine yet but they are getting better.
thanks, Bret
Bret,
I think I see what you are up to. If you have not seen Tim Rousseau's FWW video on building a small cabinet, check out his method of building drawers: https://www.finewoodworking.com/small-cabinet-video-preview/index.asp?
This should give you some great ideas.
My router table system uses a ~7 dovetail bit, a 3/4 plywood panel that rides in the miter slot and butts flush against the fence, stop blocks, and spacer blocks. I first cut all my tails on the bandsaw using Tim Rousseau's method exactly. Pins are laid out from the tail board, and as in Tim's video, waste is removed at the drill press. It's important to remove as much material as possible at the drill press. I use stop blocks and a fence. At the router table, stop blocks, fence position, and spacers are set up so that for each pin, you slowly slide the board into the bit and slide the board along the fence, using the plywood panel riding in the miter slot to push it, to complete the cut. The resulting cut is completed with a few chisel cuts to the rear of the socket to square things up. If your layout and spacer blocks are correct, you now have piston fit dovetails.
The beauty of this system is that it's basically foolproof if all your tail boards are absolutely identical, and you have the time to set it up. If I have a bunch of drawers the same size, this is how I do it. However, if you have a set of graduated drawers, it's probably time to sharpen up your hand-cutting technique.
Happy dovetailing! I am laid up here at home with the worst bronchitis God ever inflicted on one of his children, and typing this post has been a most pleasant diversion.
Edit to add: Remember now, my system is for HALF-BLIND pins, only. Tails are cut on the bandsaw only to make each board IDENTICAL. I personally make a major distinction between full and half-blinds: full cut dovetails should be a breeze to cut by hand with only a little practice. Spending time setting up a router table jig to do full dovetails would only pay off for me if I had a zillion corners to cut. Further, the quick setups on tablesaw or bandsaw cut beautiful through dovetails. And finely, check out this article from FWW on shop-made jigs: https://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011143086.pdf
OK, I'm done... I think....
-Jerry
I tried to view Tim Rousseau's video but only the intro would play. (Yes, I'm a paid up member) Clicking on any other video would just go to "transferring data from brightcove" and hang there forever. Well, maybe not forever but a long time. . .
Is it just me or is there a problem with the vids?
I don't know: I just tried to
I don't know: I just tried to view it and just got multiple requests to login. The entire FWW web experience is plagued by constant and various inconsistencies. Who knows?? The other day, trying to search for some old articles, I gave up after being asked to log on for each search. To quote P.D.Q. Bach: "My bonnie lass, she smelleth."
-Jerry
I did not have any problem viewing the video. Thank you for making me aware of it. Very educational. It's fun to still be learning.
Thanks again Jerry, I was able to watch part of the video but have to go to work.
I've built thousands of drawers during my career and hundreds with machine cut dovetails but probably less that twenty with hand cut DTs so obviously it's a skill area I have neglected.
Bret
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