Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Dec 25, 2003 11:24pm | #1

   What are you using to do this with? You sure your cutters are set right?

   I spent a number of years working as a tech for a machinery dealer and we used to sell Delta, Minimax etc so I've done more jointers than most people. I used an indicator and six foot precision straight edge and a set of feeler gauges. I can do ti without the indicator but it's much faster and far more accurate. You should be able to get it within 3 or 4 thousandths with my set up. Ten thousandths is reasonable limit set by Delta. I usually start with the outfeed table and reference it off the cutter head to make sure it's parallel to the cutterhead. Then I adjust the infeed table to match the outfeed table. Every time you move one point it affect the opposite corner so you have to sneak up on it so to speak. The adjustments get more minute as you proceed. Then I move both tables up and down in their full range and proceed to fine tune it some more until I'm within a few thousandths. This is a bit of over simplification in the procedure but it's the gist of it. Actually doing it is a bit more complicated. I find the straight edge is a critical tool and you might be able to use a level but it's nice to have a precise reference point plus when doing it professioanlly you can't dink around.

   
   

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   Edited 12/25/2003 3:27:35 PM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork

   
1. 
   kolson | Dec 26, 2003 01:46am | #2

   Hi,

     How do you use a dial indicator with a straight edge to check for co-planer length wise on a jointer?

     Thankyou,

   Ken

1. 
   rslatm | Dec 26, 2003 06:23am | #3

   You don't use them together. I use the indicator to make sure the outfeed table edge is parallel to the cutterhead. On some jointers like Oliver and Crescent the tables pull apart so it's easier with that special indicator base to straddle the head to set the knives so the extra fussing pays off. You use feeler gauges with the straight edge. On the DJ series jointers they used double set screws to lock the adjusting cams. I've seen it where people didn't realize this and marred up the adjusters. You have to remove the top set screw to loosen the bottom set screw and the cam moves easily.

1. 
   kolson | Dec 26, 2003 07:33am | #4

   Thanks,

       I have a DJ 15 clone and  decent  long straight edges are unaffodable  so I am wondering if two lengths of music wire and  four dimes one at each end and feeler guages would work.

    I can"t get any response from Delta when I ask for P/N 1330670 for the eccentric bushings.

     Any ideas for a tool to turn them?

   Thanks,

   Ken Olson

1. 
   rslatm | Dec 26, 2003 03:15pm | #6

   Music wire and dimes is a waste of time. Either bite the bullet and buy a straight edge,

   http://subtool.com/stcat/frame_subtool.html

   non graduated, tool steel, square edge would be the one!

   must be at least 2/3 the length of the bed or use a level or what JPWild is using.

   A nail set will work to rotate the cam. You are only moving it ever so slightly anyway.

   Patience is the trick. Doing it many times is the key to a short cut. DJ 15 and 20 are easy. Try replacing a table on a nine foot bed and re-adjusting that from scratch!

   "I can"t get any response from Delta when I ask for P/N 1330670 for the eccentric bushings."

   I don't understand what you are saying. If it's a clone what do you expect Delta to tell you. What brand is this clone?

   Edited 12/26/2003 10:53:04 AM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork

2. 
   kolson | Dec 26, 2003 07:20pm | #7

   Hi,

     The Delta site has a downloadable DJ 15 manual that covers table adjustments and lists this P/N for"table wrench"

      Thw story is that Delta sold their dies and tools for DJ 15 jointers to some outfit what has them made offshore.

      I had the idea that a 600.00 Cdn.$ Starrett was about  my only choice considering the accuracy and length required.

   I let them think my machine was a Delta.

   Thankyou for the help,

   Ken

3. 
   user-134407 | Dec 26, 2003 07:22pm | #8

   I got an off brand one from MSC at a reasonable price. I'd worry about aluminum over temp.

4. 
   rslatm | Dec 26, 2003 08:11pm | #9

   subtool.com sells the same ones as MSC but subtool has a much bigger selection. I have a 4 and 6 foot Starret which have paid for themselves over the years. I have since been able to get straight edges from a local sharpening shop that does paper knives. When they get too small to be used as paper knives they can grind a flat on the bevel edge and touch up the back edge to make a perfectly acceptable machined straight. I can get a 6' for around $65 plus I can get it redone for a small fee if needed. Actually now that I think of it subtoll.com makes the one that MSC sells

   Edited 12/26/2003 3:01:22 PM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork

   Edited 12/26/2003 6:43:15 PM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork

2. 
   jpwild | Dec 26, 2003 11:45am | #5

   Thanks for the response Rick.  I am using a 6 ft x 4 in. x 3/8 in thick piece of aluminium with an edge that is within .002 in. of perfectly straight. (got it from a machine shop for next to nothing).  All of the procedures you refered to are the ones I am using.  Outfeed table is set correctly (.010 from cutter head), blades are set correctly to outfeed table.  And then the fine tuning!!!  Please God help me with the fine tuning!!!  Just thought someone might have a magic trick up thier sleeve to make this job shorter and easier then I was making it (since patience isn't one of my better developed qualities).  Oh yeah, I am one of those idiots that was unaware of the TWO screw system used to lock the adjustment cams.  Yes I have 2 bushing on order from Delta that should be here mid week next week.  Don't I feel like a horses hind quarters.  Thanks again Rick.  At least since I had to take the tool partially apart to replace the busted components, know I better understand the woking of the darn thing which should make it a bit easier to do this task.  Thanks again.  Jason.