I am a novice woodworker, finishing up my first project, which is an Adirondack chair made from inexpensive pine.
Due to some slight misalignments, my seat slats are a bit uneven with the lower seat frames, leaving a bit of overhang which I would like to clean up. I started the job last night with a sanding block, but I can see that it is going to take a lot of elbow grease. I tried to use a rasp, but that resulted in a lot of marks on the frames.
I’m wondering if a plane would be the best tool for this job. I don’t know much about them, but I’ve read that a low-angle block plane is usually called for to do end-grain work like I need done.
Can anyone here help me by telling me the appropriate tool for this particular job, and by possibly recommending specific models?
Replies
For what you are doing, a small block plane will do. You can do end grain as well as face planing, and it can get into tight spots,as it is small. There are a myriad of larger planes, but they probably won't do this job any better, are more expensive, and harder to handle in tight places on an assembled chair.
You can get the Lie Nielsen block (without an adjustable mouth, which I don't think is essential) for ~95 USD, or a Lee Valley. I would avoid the new Stanley, Anant or Groz planes, as they are not well made, and will require a lot of fettling to work at all well. For the cost, it's not worth it. A good block plane comes in handy for everything from fitting moldings, doors and windows to cabinet work. Buy one now and have it for a life time.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Well, . . . the easy answer is "Of course you need a plane. In fact, you need dozens. Who doesn't?" ;-)
But, if I understand your question correctly, you have some pine boards that are perpendicular to another board, but overhang it a bit, and you want to clean up the ends so they are flush. You could use either a block plane or spokeshave for this, but you'd still have to be careful not to hit the adjacent frame piece and watch out for end grain tearing. If I wanted to limit myself to hand tools, that's what I'd use.
If you don't mind using power tools, I'd use either a random orbital, or belt, sander (I like my PC) or, if I could fit it (i.e., the chair arms didn't interfere with the tool), I'd use a router with a guided bit -- a roundover might be nice. That would ease the edge at the same time as trimming. (I like the PC with multiple bases -- can't remember the model number -- six hundred something. Very versatile.)
If you own none of these, base your decision on you budget (spokeshave is the cheapest) or, if that's not a concern, on how much use you'll get out of the tool in the future (and that depends on what you plan to work on).
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Mike,
I do have both a RO sander and a router (both PC) with a flush-trim bit. Honestly I didn't think to use either one. The sander I've had for several years, but with polishing pads that I've used on the cars. I've never used it on a piece of wood. The router would work I think, but while using it to cut some curves with templates I chunked a few pieces. I'm afraid that using the router on the ends of the slats is going to break something.
I suppose the quickest and easiest solution would be to get a sanding disc and use the power sander. However, as I get through this project, I am getting more interested in hand tools. At first I was thinking "power everything", but as I get more into it, I realize that many tasks would be quicker and easier with a good hand tool.
For example, I had to cut some 1/4" spacers to aid installation of the slats on the frame. I have a great table saw, but no hand saw. So I had to plug in the table saw and set up the miter gage to do cross-cuts just so I could cut some spacers. I don't have a zero-clearance fence yet, so several of my spacers went flying into the inside of the saw. I probably could have finished the job with a good hand saw by the time I got the equipment set up.
Well, if you are looking to expand your use of hand tools, a nice, low angle block plane is one you'll use on almost every project. I have an old Stanley and a newer LN, both of which I like, but I hear the Veritas are nice as well. If you want to go really Neanderthal, check out the wooden planes from Knight Toolworks (Google it.)
But be forewarned, this is a slippery slope you start on! ;-) And, if you haven't already, you'll have to get seriously into sharpening. Unlike electric power tools, hand-powered tools such as planes, spokeshaves and chisels, pretty much all need sharpening (some more than others) out of the box before use.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Hi EricT,
I've been kinda lurking here in your discussion and one thing bothers me. If you'll allow me to quote you,
For example, I had to cut some 1/4" spacers to aid installation of the slats on the frame. I have a great table saw, but no hand saw. So I had to plug in the table saw and set up the miter gage to do cross-cuts just so I could cut some spacers. I don't have a zero-clearance fence yet, so several of my spacers went flying into the inside of the saw. I probably could have finished the job with a good hand saw by the time I got the equipment set up.
Please don't take my comments in a belittleing (sp?) way, but trying to cut 1/4" spacers on the tablesaw without a zero clearance insert, not a zero clearance fence is a recipe for major problems. You're lucky the pieces fell down into the saw instead of back into your face! We are all sincerely trying to help you, not criticize your methods of work.
If you could post a picture of the problem you're having we might be able to more accurately help you with a solution. Without the benefit of seeing the problem it is difficult to recommend a viable solution to your problem.
As a for instance, I would never attempt to cut 1/4" spacers on a tablesaw with a mitre guage and no zero clearance insert for the blade. I'd most likely use my crosscut sled for this operation or the bandsaw.
We're just trying to help,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I would use an inexpensive Irwin Pull Saw, they do an extra fine tooth 19 point with which with very little practice you should be able to slice off a 32nd with no trouble and leave a good surface.
Eric,
If you are looking to expand your arsenal of hand tools a low angle block plane is one tool you will reach for the rest of your woodworking life. Just be careful to plane the ends of your slats inward from both directions so you don't split off the edge of the board. Also, as someone pointed out you can damage the face board with a plane if you aren't careful.
If at this point you just want to finish the project, you mentioned that you have a rasp, so try covering the face board with a piece of thin cardboard or a couple of layers of duct tape. That should protect it from most of the errant file strokes. If you are working with an old worn out rasp, throw it away and pick up a new 4-In-Hand wood rasp. They are inexpensive and will make quick work of the task.
-Chuck
If you're a novice woodworker, buy a Microplane. They're inexpensive, easy to use and cut aggressively enough to get the job done and can be used for general shaping on other projects.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5166
Others on this board may persuade you to buy a Lie-Nielsen Block or Bench plane for $200-300 but if you're just starting out, those planes may be more than what you need right now. Start out slow and build your tool inventory as your skills improve.
<"Others on this board may persuade you to buy a Lie-Nielsen Block or Bench plane for $200-300 ...">The LN Block plane costs $95 in bronze, $75 in iron, not "$200-300".http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=102As I mentioned in my post, you don't need the adjustable mouth, and the block plane is on just about every short list of essential hand tools, for the reasons I described earlier.Why you would want to discourage someone who is starting out from buying a singularly useful tool that will likely cost him less than the materials in his work piece is something of a mystery.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Why spend $75-95 on a block plane when a $15.00 Microplane will get the job done? You can take the money you save and buy more lumber to make a second chair. Remember Eric is just starting out, finishing up his first project and claims he needs to clean up the seat slats to the side of the frame meaning he would be planing endgrain. Planes come with a learning curve that takes time to master. I can't imagine someone's first attempt at using a hand plane be planing endgrain. Talk about discouraging. Microplanes are simple easy to use tools that can be used with different blade profiles for a variety of tasks. My first tool was a Stanley Surform file and I loved using it. Microplane is a just a modern version of it.
mike
Edited 5/17/2007 8:34 am ET by mvflaim
1. $75 for a block plane that will last a life time doesn't seem like a lot to me. See what you can buy for that amount in the power tool alley at HD- not much.
2. Low angle block planes are designed to plane end grain.
3. If some one starting out does not learn how to do basic fundamentals- hand planing, sawing, use of a chisel from the beginning, when will they? I cannot think of any woodworking course, apprenticeship- or father teaching son (or daughter) that would eschew these basics. The problem is, the longer someone puts off learning these fundamentals, the more limited their reach in WWing becomes, and the more likely they are to depend upon cruches- like power sanders for finishing and nails for joinery. You can't cut and fit an M&T (to say nothing of... <gasp> dovetails) without these kind of skills. It's not expensive, few people are seriously injured using block planes, and the techniques are employed in everything from rough to finish carpentry, cabinet making and furniture. What's not too like?Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Maybe he doesn't want to learn the fundamentals of woodworking. Maybe he just wants his seat slats flush to the side of his chair. My point is that he doesn't have to spend a whole lot money buying a hand plane when a simple Microplane would do the job. If EricT wants to start learning how to cut joinery, then he definitely needs to buy planes. But that's up to him and where he wants to take his woodworking skills.
Here is what Eric said:"However, as I get through this project, I am getting more interested in hand tools. At first I was thinking "power everything", but as I get more into it, I realize that many tasks would be quicker and easier with a good hand tool."Here is what you said:"But [it's] up to him and where he wants to take his woodworking skills."Here is my interpretation:Eric undertook one of his first WWing projects. Along the way, he needed to correct some imperfections, and asked "should I buy and use a handplane to do this". After some posts, he indicated "that many tasks would be quicker and easier with a good hand tool." I suggested that he might want to spend a little money on a good block plane, and that if he were game, developing his hand tool skills (that he seems fairly keen to do) might pay dividends later.You responded:"Maybe he doesn't want to learn the fundamentals of woodworking. Maybe he just wants his seat slats flush to the side of his chair. My point is that he doesn't have to spend a whole lot money buying a hand plane..."My reply is:1. $75 is not a "whole lot of money" for a good tool that gets used a lot.
2. It sounds from his own posts that Eric does "want to learn the fundamentals of woodworking".
3. Many people who visit Knots do so for the express purpose of learning about woodworking.
4. Your replies to Eric seem to be less about what he is looking for and more about your particular opinion- that is, your replies say more about you then about him.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
1. $75 is not a "whole lot of money" for a good tool that gets used a lot.....It is to me....especially when there are cheaper alternatives out there..
2. It sounds from his own posts that Eric does "want to learn the fundamentals of woodworking". I don't think he does. I think he looking for a quicker and easier way to work and is considering using hand tools. I've never read where he was interested in understanding or cutting hand joinery.
3. Many people who visit Knots do so for the express purpose of learning about woodworking. I'm trying to help him out and save him some money at the same time.
4. Your replies to Eric seem to be less about what he is looking for and more about your particular opinion- that is, your replies say more about you then about him. He wants to trim his seat slats flush to the sides. I offered an option of using a Microplane as a cheap alternative to a Lie-Nielsen block plane. He probably just needs to do what Multi said and just use a trim saw to saw them flush. Or use his flush trim bit in his router if he can.
I have no vested interest in Microplane. It's just a darn fine tool in my opinion..
The best approach to the situation you are in is to avoid having to trim back the ends of boards after the piece is assembled. No matter what tool you used, getting the boards flush after a piece is assembled will be a tedious job, and the end result, no matter how carefully done, will probably not look all that good.
One of the things you will learn as you get into furniture making is to avoid designs that needlessly require very precise fits. I can't picture what the problem is with your chair, but you could probably have designed it so that the ends were either covered by a piece of trim or would have over hung the edge by a bit rather than having to be perfectly flush.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
Amen, a pound of planning ahead can be worth it's weight in tools.
That said, I will agree the OP will be well served with a good low angle block.
I like the micro plane type tools and have made good use of them but I think a plane will be more useful in the long run.
Buy both if you can swing it, you won't be sorry!------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
Eric,
It sounds to me like the chair is already assembled. I have seen endless varieties of Adirondack chairs (I live in Tupper Lake, NY; the hart of the Adirondacks. That dose'nt make me an expert however!) and most always the slats have a space between them. Using a hand plane, even a Lie-Nielsen low angle one will result in splitting of the slats since the space between them will not allow you to back up the ends to prevent it. I would go with a random orbit sander. It will do a great job in this instance.
Get a nice plane if you like, and learn to use it on your next few projects but, the sander is the most logical choice for this one.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
Bob,That's a good point. On the other hand, if the differences between the different slats are more than ~1/32", it could take quite a while to sand them away.I still favor a LA block plane. I would use a straight edge or chalk line to mark out on all the slats where they ought to end. Then I would cut spacers to fit between the slats- sister them- the spacers should line up with the cut line. I'd wet the end grain on the end of the slats with mineral spirits and have the plane's iron just protruding to take fine cuts of the end grain. I'd plane on a skew to minimize resistance and tear out.I think the above would work- it'd be faster than sanding, and probably leave a better edge than trying to resaw the assembled chair. I don't think it would take too long to set up. As for JohnWW's comment about using a molding or design- well, we all have projects that end up with wrinkles that need fixing. Putting things right is part of WWing...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Plane from the top towards the underside which is supported, or use a chisel to relieve the end opposite of the starting point.
I've been following this thread from the start and feel a block plane like the LN 102 is a great starting point. I too have some microplanes but I really feel a small block plane is the better choice in this instance.
Wow, lots of great replies here, thank you.
First, I am attaching a diagram of the issue just to clear it up. I don't have a photo handy, so I just whipped up something in AutoCAD. The seat slats are designed to be flush with the outside of the seat frame. Due to slight movement during the drilling of pilot holes, and my not-so-perfect alignment of the seat frame, there is a bit of overhang.
The seat portion of the chair is completely assembled. The design of the chair is calling for all the slats to be completely flush on both sides. I totally agree with John White's comment, in that it would be better if the design didn't need that. I think on future iterations of the chair, I may design in a 1/8" overhang on each side. I think it would look nice.
Bob, thanks for your comments, I don't feel belittled at all, in fact I appreaciate your advice. You are right in correcting me, I meant zero-clearance insert, not zero-clearance fence. I am a beginner with no one looking over my shoulder, so I am not surprised if what I am doing is not the best way, and I appreciate you setting me on the right path. FYI, I have a zero-clearance insert on the way. I made some 7/8" spacers last night, and that went much smoother with the saw :)
Finally, I want to state that I am very interested in learning the fundamentals of woodworking (particularly joinery). This is part of the reason for my interest in hand tools. I would like to be able to make furniture and cabinetry for my home, and as far as I know there is no power tool that is going to make half-blind dovetails for me.
So, what will I do? I'm still not sure. I'll pick up a sanding disc for my RO sander, because I'll need that anyway for many projects. And I think I might buy a plane as well. Maybe I'll work one side of the chair with the sander and the other side with the plane and see what works better for me. I'm considering this to be my practice piece to learn with before I make the "real" pair of chairs with more expensive lumber.
This post is getting terribly long, but this brings up another question. If I buy a plane, I would want to be able to get by with only one plane for a while. Would a larger plane be able to do this job? The reason I ask is because I also want to learn how to square and flatten boards, so it would be great if I could do both things with one tool.
If I were going to try getting by with one handplane, it would definitely be a low angle block from either Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley. These planes are a joy to use right out of the box. But beware: this tool is going to make you love handtools so much, you will NEVER stick to one plane. DAMHIKT.
"If I buy a plane, I would want to be able to get by with only one plane for a while. Would a larger plane be able to do this job?"
Well, sort of, maybe. Your present project requires planing end grain, albeit pine. You generally want a low angle, bevel up plane for that -- which is why I recommended the block plane. These are also very short planes, so they are not particularly good for use in squaring and/or flattening boards. The plane you would use for that depends a lot on the size and characteristics of the board you are working on. (A long board needs a longer plane to get it flat. Grain also plays a role.) A shoulder plane would also work for end grain, and Veritas makes some larger planes that are low angle, bevel up. But, IMHO, these are specialty planes and should not be substituted for your first bench plane, tho' some would disagree.
Since you already have a random orbital sander, I still think you'd be better off getting some disks for it and cleaning this up that way. It would probably only take a few minutes and there is less risk of spoiling the chair. Get disks of various grits, say 60, 120 and 220, and work your way through them. I love hand tools, but they do have a learning curve. The ROS will get you out of your present jam with minimal fuss and/or expense.
BTW, you can make 1/2-blind dovetails with a router. It's just not as much fun as doing it by hand. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Eric,Hand planes are interesting beasts... but they tend to be specialized, and so one plane will not do all jobs. I am sure that you will get advice of all sorts ranging from one to a hundred. My advice would be to consider starting out with two: the low angle block I mentioned earlier, and a #5 jack. I think the LN iron block is a good deal at $75. A LN #5 will cost a lot more closer to $300. The LV is, I think, a bit cheaper.Why a #5? Some swear by their #4 or #4 1/2; others favor the rather big #7 jointer. But a #5 is (IMHO) just right: with enough mass and length to be a decent smoother, and enough length to flatten well; it's not to long for a novice to handle. By gaining proficiency with these planes, you'll be able to finish off tool marks, flatten boards and adjust edges- even do a little precise shooting. I find I make fewer mistakes working slowly and carefully with a handplane- you can do a world of mischief in a few bad seconds with a router.If you time is more plentiful than $$, consider buying an old (preWWII) Bailey #5- they were made much better back then. You can get one in decent condition for ~$30-50, and restore it in a few hours. You'll probably have to lap it and hone the iron, but you'll learn a lot doing that (I know that I did). If you do decide to go that route, pick up a copy of Hack's "Handplane Book"- it has a bunch of great tips about buying, using and maintaining planes.BTW my go to plane is a #5 Jack- an 1888 Bailey, restored to fighting trim, it cost me $35 and a few sheets of sandpaper.Good luck,Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I would love to have a LN plane but with a little coaching form a few of us Eric could be taught what to look for in a good used plane & could have as many as 3 or 4 good planes for what 1 LN would cost him.<!----><!----><!---->
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I have been reading Michael Dunbar's book Restoring & tuning & using Classic Woodworking Handtools & Garrett Hack's handplane Book as well as his Classic Hand Tools also a copy of John Walter's Antique & Collectible Stanley Tools Guide to Identity & Value would help you know what is out there in Stanley Tools & what to look for. Also Miller Falls made reasonably good tools.<!----><!---->
<!----><!---->
Here are a couple of pics some of the tools are in both pics but I think you get the idea I have around $600 - $700 in all of these tools plus I have the satisfaction of cleaning them up & sharpening them & putting them back into service. None of them are show pieces all of the are or will be users. Last week end I purchased at a garage sale 2 wooden transitional fore planes 20" long 1 was a 1860 Birmingham the other a Stanley as well as a real well use 12" Stanley try square which I did a minor repair on.The 4 saws you seen in the pic $5 each & 4 socket chisels & a Record low angle block plane ($10) with an adjustable mouth just what you are looking for. Everything for $80. All of what you see in the 3 pic with the 4 back saws in the middle of the pic. A little learning can save you many dollars & turn into quite a lot of fun. The tools will look great in your shop too. Even eclectic compared to brand new tools.<!----><!---->
For Stanely Info. http://www.supertool.com/index.htm
For Miller Falls Info. http://oldtoolheaven.com/
Good, better, best never let it rest until your good is better & your better best.
Edited 5/19/2007 1:32 am by OB
Edited 5/19/2007 8:55 am by OB
I decided to go vintage. I just won an auction for a #4 Bailey. I was looking for a #5, but this auction was ending and I got it for $18 including shipping, so I figured why not.
I read that the orange lettering was done during the late 20's and early 30's, which would make this tool older than my Dad.
So now I just need to figure out how to get it in good condition, and then how to use it!
These books explain fairly well how to do it.
You may be able to check them out from the library & save a little $ to go toward your next plane. Most likly a nice adjustable 601/2 12 degree low angle adjustable mouth block plane something you'll use a lot. I am recommending this particular plane is it will do most of what you want a block plane for.
Michael Dunbar's book Restoring & tuning & using Classic Woodworking Handtools & Garrett Hack's handplane Book as well as his Classic Hand Tools .
Good, better, best never let it rest until your good is better & your better best.
Edited 5/23/2007 3:03 pm by OB
Edited 5/23/2007 3:07 pm by OB
Eric,
Congratulations on your new toy!!
These web sites will help you date your plane:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/ts_1_frame.html
http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/ascii_dating_chart.html
https://home.comcast.net/%7Erexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm
These will help you with tuning and cleaning your plane (good photos in most of them):
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To_pages/Smalser_on_RehabbingPlanes.htm
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/plane/planeCleaning/index.asp
https://home.comcast.net/%7Erexmill/planes101/handle/handle.htm
https://home.comcast.net/%7Erexmill/planes101/planes101.htm
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To_pages/Frierson_on_MouthFiling.htm
Some generally-useful woodworking/hand plane info and also some recommendations on books :
http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/workshop/planes1.php
http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/planeindex.htm
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/plane.html
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/plane.html
Books:
Finally, the following will give you another step-by-step method for tuning up your plane.
Here's what I do when I teach plane tune-up classes (some of this will be similar to the info on the web sites referenced above) (This assumes that your plane is complete, generally undamaged, and not too rusty or grimy.):
1) Disassemble and inspect the plane. Take everything apart: knob, tote, lever cap, iron, chip breaker, frog, iron adjustment wheel, all screws. Inspect for rust, grime, missing parts, damage to parts, etc.
2) Clean everything. Mineral spirits and steel wool/scotchbrite-type pads work well for most cleaning. If the rust is really bad, you can use electrolysis. A brass/bronze toothbrush-sized brush is also handy for getting in to corners and such. I generally don't use a wire wheel because it can damage parts, but that's up to you whether to use one or not.
3) Re-inspect and note any damage, etc., that might have been hidden by rust or grime.
4) Determine whether the frog bosses on the casting are flat and parallel: set the frog on the bosses and try to rock the frog. If it rocks -- doesn't sit flat and square on the bosses -- then either the frog boss(es) on the casting or the bottom of the frog are not flat/parallel. Or both may need work. Use a fine file to make the bosses on the casting flat and parallel, as necessary. Use a light touch here, and try to remove as little metal as is absolutely necessary.
5) Flatten the bottom of the frog, as necessary (see #4, above). Also, use a straight edge to determine whether the iron bedding surface of the frog is flat and parallel. If not, use a file to flatten/make parallel, as necessary. You want the iron to mate tightly and as completely as possible with this surface -- it helps make the iron rigid, reducing chatter. Again, a light touch with the file is best.
6) Inspect the mouth. The forward edge should be flat and square to the sole. If not square it and/or flatten it, as required. This is one place where you really, really want to remove as little metal as is absolutely necessary. The tighter the mouth can be made, the better results -- i.e., less tear-out -- (all other things being equal) you will get when use it as a smoothing plane.
7) Inspect the mating surface of the lever cap. File it square and flat, as necessary. Remove the file marks on a medium and then fine smoothing stone. Lubricate the lever mechanism on the upper end.
8) Inspect the mating surface of the chip breaker. File it square and flat, as necessary. Remove the file marks on a medium and then fine smoothing stone. Polish the upper portion of the leading edge with 400/600 (and higher grits, if you desire) sand paper. The mating surface should completely mate with the iron -- with no gaps. This will help prevent shavings from sticking between the chip breaker and the iron, and jamming your plane. It also makes the iron more rigid and helps prevent chatter. The polished upper leading edge helps move the shavings up and away from the mouth.
9) Inspect the iron. Grind as necessary. The leading edge needs to be square to the sides. Polish the reverse (non-bevel side) of the iron (about 1" to 1½" back from the cutting edge) to a mirror polish. You should be able to see fine details in the reflection. (You normally have to do this only once; subsequent sharpenings/honings will keep it that way.) Then hone the bevel side of the iron progressively up through your finest sharpening stone, also to a mirror polish. Add a micro-bevel, if desired.
10) Put a very light coat of oil on all screws and pivot points. Clean and polish the brass iron adjustment wheel, as needed/desired.
11) Make any necessary repairs to the knob and/or tote. Sand off any old nasty finish and refinish the knob and tote with oil, shellac, etc., as needed/desired. I strongly recommend against polyurethane; it looks horrible on wooden plane parts.
12) Reassemble the plane. Withdraw the iron above the level of the sole. You want the plane fully assembled to introduce whatever stresses will be present when planing into the lapping process, so that the sole is flat when the plane is set-up for use. Lap the sides if desired (not really needed for a smoothing plane, unless you're going to use it on a shooting board. If so, then make sure that you lap the sides at exactly a 90° angle to the sole.) Now comes the fun part: lap the sole. Use a known flat surface (float/plate glass, surface plate, etc. Some recommend using the wing of a table saw or one of the tables on a jointer; personally, I cringe at the thought of deliberately introducing grit into fine machinery....) Start with 80 grit and progressively work your way up to 220 grit; don't skip a grit. You can go higher, but once you pass 220, you're just polishing the surface. Water or a light machine oil on the sand paper makes a good lubricant to float the swarf away. How flat is flat? Well, for smoothing planes, the general rule of thumb is "flatter is better." At the least, you want the first 1" or so of the toe, the ½" to 1" in front of the mouth, the ½" to 1" behind the mouth, and the last 1" or so of the heel to be co-planar. Using a permanent marker to mark wavy lines on the sole will help you see your progress. Continue lapping until you have reached the desired level of flatness. This is quite boring, but you need to maintain your attention to the task at hand to do a good job. It may take only a couple of minutes or it may take a couple of hours, depending on what shape the sole of your plane is in and how flat you want it. Use an accurate straight edge to check flatness from toe to heel and from side to side, especially in front of the mouth. Once you have finished lapping the sole, disassemble and clean as necessary. If you used water as the lubricant, make sure that you get all of the water off your plane, to prevent new rust!!
13) Reassemble the plane, and adjust the iron for a light cut. Test your newly-tuned plane on a nice piece of hard wood. You should be able to take nice, full-width, translucent shavings. Enjoy!
There are many different possible sequences to do this; the one listed above is merely the one that I use.
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You can expect a well-tuned smoothing plane to put a surface on a piece of wood that is ready to apply finish to. When you look at the surface against a light at a low angle, the surface of the wood should reflect the light like glass, and it should feel almost glass-smooth.
Have fun, and good luck!
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Tschüß!<!----><!---->
<!----><!---->James<!----><!---->
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"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that...."
-- A.C. Clarke
Wow, that's an excellent and informative post. Thank you, sir!
First of all, I agree with the suggestions here to go ahead and explore hand planes. You'll be really surprised as what they can do. The internet is a great place for information, but this is one case where taking a class would be time and money well spent. If you can take a class in your area on hand plane use, do so.I would also like to propose another option for your particular problem. A Japanese flush cutting pull saw will clean up your edges well. The teeth on these saws have no set, so that you can saw off a piece of wood flush to whatever it is attached to.You can see what one looks like at Woodcraft at the link below, but there are a lot of places where you can buy a saw like this.http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3094
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