Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Mar 07, 2009 12:08am | #1

   Careful work, and a thickness planer, will make for some VERY even face frames.

   But note that a planer will not make anything straighter than it was to begin with. If you need to correct warp, you'll also need a jointer.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
2. 
   RonT | Mar 07, 2009 12:17am | #2

   Depends on what you expect out of yourself in terms of quality. If you want it square with tight fits and reduced sanding; a jointer and a thickness planner is a must.

   Couple that with a table saw that will give you square and accurate cuts.

   But, if you are not meticulous, keep on doing what you are doing now and have fun.

1. 
   FR | Mar 07, 2009 12:24am | #3

   Ron,Thanks for the response. I guess my question is more about "right tool for the right job". The built-in I'm doing now has two doors with 4 inch rails/stiles. I'm using cope/stick bits for the joinery, but I would guess (but I'm not sure) that perfectly dress stock would make that task much more manageable than trying to sand the joints flush afterwards. FR

1. 
   RonT | Mar 07, 2009 12:45am | #6

   Few tools will leave you with an end product you don't have to sand. Tighter fits require less sanding and make nice joints.

   I built my first major project, roll top desk, with a contractors saw, router table and a sander and lots of sand paper. It came out great. Later, after acquiring a jointer and thickness planner, I built another project; WOW; that was sweet.

   It would be nice to have a shop like Norm Abram.

1. 
   FR | Mar 07, 2009 01:02am | #8

   Ron,

   "Sweet" is the perfect response.   I own several tools that allow me to do the same things I was doing before - only much easier and faster and, ulimately more enjoyable.   My drill allowed me to hang cabinets with 3.5 inch screws, but when I did the same job with an impact driver, it was easier, faster and better.   Same with nail guns, laser measuring device, door mortising jig, etc.    I'm sure I can keep sanding away any discrepancies in the wood thickness at the joints, but if the project will roll along faster and better with a thickness planer,  I'll get one.   If you guys think it's an extra step for me with minimal benefit for my type of work,  I'll continue to work without it.

   Thanks again Ron.

   FR

1. 
   philip_r | Mar 07, 2009 02:53am | #9

   If the joint doesn't fit because the materials are not the same thickness - a planer is a good investment.

   If the joint doesn't fit because of tiny variables in your setup - don't worry about it.  There is always a little bit of cleanup work after you glue a door together.  Your objective may be to minimize the amount of cleanup work necessary.  In this case, a thickness planer wouldn't help - since you can't run a finished door through a planer.

   Other options may be a thickness sander or a stroke sander - but they are overkill unless your volume can justify the investment.

   Another thought is a well tuned hand plane..?  Start with a good block plane, then add a shoulder plane and smoother (#4 or #4 1/2) down-the-road.  hand planes can make quick work of flushing parts (just a few swipes), they don't make any dust and they don't require any electricity.

2. 
   Cincinnati | Mar 07, 2009 12:46am | #7

   Ron, is the issue that the stiles and rails are different thicknesses or that your method of joinery puts the faces on different planes? I got the impression it's the latter and you are attempting to sand them flush.

   If so, more careful attention to details of joinery is called for. Make sure you reference all cuts off the same face. I'd choose the front face as the reference plane.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

3. 
   philip_r | Mar 07, 2009 12:33am | #4

   There are a million ways to skin a cat in home and furniture construction. :0)

   It all depends on what needs to be "cleaned up".  Can you tell us what you're sanding? 

   Planers are great for bringing all of your material to an even thickness.  If this is your problem, a planer would do a great job. 

   If the straitness of your material is the problem, then I would turn to a jointer.

   If you just need to even the joints, you can try chamfering them or use a block plane to bring them in to alignment.

1. 
   FR | Mar 07, 2009 12:44am | #5

   Generally,  I'm using 1x4 and 1x6 poplar to build face frames, mantels, window seats, etc.  all paint grade.   For this project, I'm moving into cabinet doors with cope stick joinery instead of pocket screw joinery.    To get the stock exactly even (thickness and width) I thought a thickness planer would help, but I was not sure whether it is stongly recommended or just slightly helpful.   Chamferred joints would not fit this project.

   Any thoughts?   Thanks.

   FR

1. 
   oldusty | Mar 07, 2009 05:24am | #10

   FR ,

         I have made many stile and rail doors and the best bet is to get your stock from a reputable or the best suppler you can.

      Usually stock is close enough to use and even the best surfaced stock needs sanding after assembly . As was mentioned the parts index face down on mine as well so any discrepancies will occur on the back side .

      Find a local shop that does wide belt sanding , for $50 or less a set of doors can be surfaced . The wide belt does not eliminate finish sanding though .

         We buy our stock usually at 13/16" , so even after surfacing you always have at least 3/4" .

      To answer your question , once you have a thickness planer you will wonder how you lived without one so long , trust me you will, never regret it , only want a bigger one !

                dusty , very

2. 
   zolton | Mar 07, 2009 06:21pm | #13

   FR,

   One thing to keep in mind is that if you're purchasing 1x4 and 1x6 stock already surfaced, running it through a planer is going to reduce its thickness further. That might be unacceptable in your work, as it will affect the stock's strength as well as its look.

   Thickness planers are valuable when you can purchase lumber in the rough - right from the saw. Then, you can joint one edge and one face and run the other sides through the planer in order to create a parallel side and edge. They also allow you to produce lumber of any thickness; you don't have to confine yourself to the usual 3/4 inch model.

   As another poster mentioned, if the problem is leveling joints after they've been created and glued up, that's another matter entirely and a planer wouldn't do you much good. Not only are most glued-up assemblies too large to fit into most of the affordable thickness planers, you'd also run into the problem of having at least some of the assembly hitting the blades parallel to the grain - a recipe for a rough finish. 

   A stationary thickness sander or stroke sander would speed up leveling joints after an assembly is glued up. But those solutions require a significant level of investment in terms of money, shop space, and dust collection ability.

   All told, you might be best off just hitting the joints with a plane and a random orbit sander. Low tech and very effective...

   ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon

4. 
   roc | Mar 07, 2009 08:14am | #11

   >Do I need a Thickness Planer?<

   No. You don't need a thickness planer.

   But I do. You are now having an uncontrollable desire to pay for one and have it shipped to my house. When I snap my fingers you will awaken and then go to the Amazon online store. Once you are there you will . . .

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/7/2009 12:17 am by roc

5. 
   gossamershavings | Mar 07, 2009 10:27am | #12

   no , you dont need one...you are getting work done without one right now.the question is, how much do you like sanding?  i hate it, and anything that gets me closer to done with less sanding is approved. also, with a router table set up for edge jointing(or a jointer, which i know you don't have) and a thicknesser,  you can also plane your stock to width. if you start with parts all the same width and thickness, with careful joinery, you get closer tolerances. there is always some clean up but, you will find it alot less.for the price, i would say it's worth it. i recomend a sharp plane and card scraper. i just made 4 maple doors, and a light plane and some cleanup with the scraper saved an hour(s) of sanding i'm sure.once you learn to sharpen a scraper, you get wonderful curls of shavings, not dust. once you mill file it, burnish it with the pressure of buttering bread. i used too much pressure for years and made a fragile hook. the results i get now are miles above. anyway, the time you save with a planer( get a jointer too!) will be time you can be making more frames. pays for itself.                       Mike

6. 
   Routerman | Mar 07, 2009 06:47pm | #14

   Critical.

1. 
   roc | Mar 09, 2009 12:59am | #16

   >Critical<Nice counter bore ! I use them in metal. First time I have seen someone here posting about them. Way to go !> Expensive? Yes, but will let you get your arms around the adjustment and measuring problems.<You said it ! Tape measures and speed squares just are not enough.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

7. 
   FR | Mar 08, 2009 01:06am | #15

   Thanks for everyone's reply. It was very helpful. I'll skip the thickness planer for now.

   FR