Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 08, 2008 12:47am | #1

   Typically you seem to get the most color change if the cherry is first coated with BLO before other finishes.  But, otherwise it's not the shellac it's the gel stain that will have a bigger impact in delaying the color change.  This is because of the UV blocking effect of the pigment.  That said, the cherry will still change color over time. 

1. 
   amherstwalt | Mar 08, 2008 01:52am | #3

   Steve,

   Does BLO also tend to cause blotches is the cherry? 

   Thanks,

   Walt

1. 
   user-83153 | Mar 08, 2008 04:19am | #4

   Walt,

   BLO brings out the figure in cherry. Some people call that blotchy if it isn't widespread or is random, but it is still figure. You have to experiment with the wood you have to see what BLO will bring out.

   Here is some really blotchy cherry.

                             Rob

          

   
1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 08, 2008 04:47am | #5

   Rob,

   That apothecary really came out nice!  Great job.

   Also, I don't care what those jabobies say, the drawers are awesome.  I can see the symetry in them and they look really nice.

   That ain't no BS either.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   user-83153 | Mar 08, 2008 07:21am | #6

   Thanks Bob. What are jabobies, and what are they saying about my drawers? Also, are they saying it about the apothecary drawers or my, you know, personal drawers?

                              Rob

2. 
   DonC | Mar 09, 2008 01:15pm | #7

   Walt's post didn't mention gel stain. It was gel varnish.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 09, 2008 02:52pm | #8

   Oops, so he did.  

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 08, 2008 01:04am | #2

   The primary cause for cherry to darken over time is exposure to UV from sunlight. Shellac will have little or no affect on UV transmission to the wood. There is a minor secondary darkening that occurs from oxidation that is caused by oxygen. Because a finish will slow up the transmission of oxygen slightly, you may somewhat retard oxidation darkening.

   Howie.........
3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Mar 09, 2008 07:11pm | #9

   Sealing the wood does not delay the color change unless the clear coats contain UV protection (e.g., Spar Varnish). The samples I used for "suntanning" at this link - Cherry Finishes - were finished before I did the testing.

   Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

1. 
   amherstwalt | Mar 09, 2008 09:04pm | #10

   Paul,

   Thanks for your reply.  Your web site with the pictorial examples of new and aged cherry finishes is excellent!   I hope you plan to keep those pages active so they can be used for future reference.

   Walt

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Mar 10, 2008 12:27am | #11

   I do plan to maintain the website and add to it Walt. I just have to make time for the updates. Glad to hear it was helpful!Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

1. 
   noviceneil | Mar 10, 2008 07:34pm | #12

   I'm building a toybox for one of my granddaughters from clear pine with cherry trim. I was going to put several coats of tung oil on before covering with varnish or polyurethane...anyone see any problems with that plan?

   thanks,

   Neil

1. 
   saschafer | Mar 10, 2008 08:05pm | #13

   Other than making sure that the tung oil is good and dry between each coat and before adding the varnish, it sounds like a workable plan. However, I don't think you're going to see any difference between "several" coats of tung oil and "one or two" coats of tung oil.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   noviceneil | Mar 10, 2008 09:17pm | #14

   Thanks Steve,

   I made a footstool for the grandchildren using mahagoney....I put a couple coats of tung oil on it and thought it looked OK, then put a few more coats and thought it looked better but maybe that was my inexperience...I'd certainly be happier not to put on extra coats of anything if it's not going to improve look or function..

   Neil

3. 
   saschafer | Mar 10, 2008 09:59pm | #15

   I think you'll find that the varnish will have much the same effect as multiple coats of tung oil, with less work.

   Of course, as always, try it on a test piece first!

   -Steve

    

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 10, 2008 11:00pm | #16

   Are you planning to use a real, 100% tung oil or one of the faux "tung oil finishes"? If using the real tung oil, apply only one coat and give it plenty of time to cure. Pure tung oil takes almost forever to cure.Personally, I would apply a coat of boiled linseed oil, let it dry 48 hours and then apply your clear coat. You will never see the difference in tung oil verses BLO once it's overcoated with a varnish or poly varnish.Howie.........

5. 
   noviceneil | Mar 11, 2008 03:21pm | #18

   No, it's one of those finishes, not real tung oil...I only recently learned that the two were not the same and that tung oil finish may not even contain tung oil...still the footstool did look nice (at least for awhile...three year olds have a way of challenging ANY finish)

   Neil

6. 
   DonC | Mar 11, 2008 01:31am | #17

   Forget the tung oil compelely. It will only make you hve to wait an extended period of time before applying the varnish. You won't be able to tell much difference and it will save you time and money.

7. 
   noviceneil | Mar 11, 2008 03:22pm | #19

   OK Don, you've got my attention...what to use instead?

   Neil

8. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 11, 2008 04:13pm | #20

   Thin the first coat of varnish a little and start with that.  The effect won't be exactly the same(BLO will darken the cherry a bit more and will itself darken over time) but the effects are so close that you won't be likely to notice the difference after a short time, compared to using the varnish after a coat of BLO.  Make a test board and see if you don't agree.