Mine does. Bad. .024″ – .028″ on both ends regardless of material, depth of cut, feed speed. I guess it goes back. I read reviews where they said the snipe was less than .002″??
Bought the planer today for smaller pieces and jobs instead of firing up the 3ph 10HP electric guzzler.
Thanks.
Replies
Bought mine last week and have used it several times so far. Only noticed a little snipe at the one end, but not worth worrying about. It really is minimal. Maybe you just got a bad one, but mine seems to work fine. Love the two speeds.
Yeah. Thats kind of what I've heard. Mine is sniping so bad I would have to cut off about 3" of each end. Not happening.Glad yours is good.
I've had mine for ~ 3 years, no real problems with snipe. I always handplane my boards after milling to get rid of tool marks, but I have no obvious snipe prior to handplaning. I'd call DeWalt or return the machine.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
The Infeed and outfeed (optional) tables work well, never tried my 735 without them. But your snipe sounds way out of wack. Call DeWalt ;-(
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I've had mine for close to two years, very little snipe. I do have the in and out feed tables, I believe they do help.
Frank
I've had mine for several years now. Before I got the infeed/outfeed tables and adjusted them properly I had problems.
After installing the tables I spoke with Dewalt. They recommended running the boards at a slight angle, (don't put them in at 12 and 6 on the clock, more like 1 and 7). I also use scrap to lead and follow my good pieces. I still get snipe occasionally, but not bad.
I hope you don't have to give up on this machine. Good luck.
Thanks Guy's
I also have an old DewWalt 733 planer and it does a FAR better job with barely any snipe whatsoever.Looking closely at my new DeWalt 735 and I noticed I can lift the right outfeed corner of the machine up and down by hand, where as the other 3 corners are solid with no play. That answers why there is less snipe on the left side of the planer.I'm taking it back tonight. Just going to stick with the old 733.
One alternative to get rid of snipe is to follow up the planer with a drum sander to make the board evenly flat along the entire length.
I have the DeWalt planer and the blades seem to chip easily on maple that has defects such as knots. Sometimes I wonder whether the steel DeWalt uses could be a bit better to make them more knick resistant. Rock maple can be tough to work with.
Maybe they should make the planer blades out of hard maple, then you could plane Dewalt steel with them. :^)
Rob
Have had mine for 3 years now and snipe has never been an issue and I don't have the infeed/outfeed tables..... I really like mine and would recomend it to others. Yes I would call Dewalt on that one, maybe you did get a lemon.
Regards,
Carpenter5
I have had my 735 for about 3 years now. This winter all of a sudden I am getting very bad snipe on the left side facing from the infeed side.
It is so bad at times, it is more of a gouge than snipe. I ordered new bushings for all rollers. It looks like an all day job to repalace then.
As others have said, the knives from Dewalt are junk. After replacing the knives, the first curly yellow birch (no knots) run though, I had knicks.
I have already had to replace the shroud between the cutter head and the blades because of a chipout from the end of a board.
This is the last Dewalt tool I will by. I have three of their sanders and they are junk next to the Makita and Rigid sanders that I have.
http://www.superwoodworks.com
Agreed Garry,
I returned it. Didn't get another. DeWalt the company appears VERY disconnected from their customers, certainly no Festool or Bosch.Have a great summer up there.
A very small amount and not everytime. If I simply provide some support past the outfeed table with my hand I get none at all worth worrying about anyway.
Brian
I bought my DW735 about a year ago. I took it out the the box and started using it without any adjustments, tuneups, or jigs (in/outfeed tables). It performed perfectly and still does. No snipe, but cuts slightly deeper at one side than the other.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Syma,
How long are the typical boards you're planeing? Mine sniped a very little bit at first on long (8 ft.) pieces, so I built two 30" extensions. Problem solved. Angle the outfeed side up just a hair.
Steve
There are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.
1. Let her think she's having her own way.
2. Let her have her own way. President Lyndon Baines Johnson
I have know snipe with my planer. There was a past article about installing the infeed and outfeed table to help eliminate snipe. The idea was to use a straight edge and have the front edge of the infeed and outfeed table raise up by the thickness of a penny. I did this with my planer and I have had know problems.
If a planer has some form of locking mechanism to prevent movement, like a cutterhead lock or 4-post design, snipe is typically a function of setup and technique, not brand or model number. I find it interesting that planer reviews actually try to measure the snipe and rate it when it's so dependent on the reviewers setup. Occasional snipe is unvoidable, but if you're getting regular snipe with the DW735, 734, 733, Delta 22-580, 22-560 (now TP400), Makita 2012, either Rigdid, Hitachi, Ryobi 1300, or a host of others, then something's wrong with the setup or technique or the locking device itself (which is really covered by setup IMO). Cheaper models with no lock are far more prone to snipe regardless of setup and techique, though it can help reduce it.
Hi Scott,
Happy Easter.Your right on. The problem I saw with the DeWalt 735 I owned for a whopping 15 hours was that there is NO column locking design. I thought I read somewhere that it was built into the screws on each corner and every time you cranked the height adjustment it automatically locked itself??? Hogwash. To truly eliminate snipe:1. The infeed and outfeed rollers need to be spaced further apart.2. The springs on these rollers need to be much heavier.3. There MUST be a pressure bar. There is not.4. There SHOULD be a chip breaker. There is not.5. The 4 columns can NOT have ANY play or rock in the thread. There was. Given this the DeWalt would cost $1500....and I might have paid that for such a planer that I could transport.So I search actively the world over for an old Inca with a Tersa cutterhead. Wish me luck.
What you say might be true. But I bought the Dewalt 735 and I had snipe at the end of my boards. I was also frustrated with the machine. then I read the article about installing the infeed and outfeed tables. since then I have had know problems with snipe. I have been using the tool over 3 years now problem free. So explain that to me. Since I have not changed anything else.
Brandon
Hi Brandon - That's an issue with the 735 IMO, though some claim it doesn't need the tables....I consider adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables part of the setup. DW really should include them for what they're asking for that unit. Has anyone tried using something like a 4'x 12" section of reinforced ply/mdf/melamine as tables?
I just used Dewalts tables. That way you can use the adjustment screws to make the tables tilt from front to back. That was the point of the article that I read. You don't want the tables to be flat with the planer bed. You want the front of the infeed table to be a little higher then the planer bed itself. They sad about the thickness of a penny from front to back.
Brandon
I know this goes against the grain of us wood lovers. It's hard as heck to cut off a 3"x8" hunk of mahogany and call it waste, but I have come to terms and made my peace with snipe.
I think all portable planers produce snipe and that it is unavoidable. All we can control is the degree of snipe.
Fact is that at a point, the board is engaged under two rollers, one in front and one in back of the blade. These rollers have to engage at enough pressure to move this sizable board through the machine against the resistance of the cutterhead. Then, at another point, and suddenly, all the force comes off one roller. These machines just don't have the mass to absorb that kind of change in forces without at least a little snipe - even if the board is well secured.
The above explains the outfeed process. The infeed is similar.
I don't have a lot of experience with commercial grade planers, but these giants offer a lot more stability. Still you can sometimes find a little snipe on boards that were S2S.
I think the lesson is: you can't be in snipe denial. It's going to happen. Plan for it and be prepared to plane your stock long and accept the waste. Think of it like kerf - unavoidable waste.
I'm not suggesting we be wasteful. Do what you can to minimize the waste by planing stock in the longest state possible, then crosscutting to length. Don't square off the ends of rough boards before plaining - let the snipe fall in the cut-off area. If the ends will be getting tenioned, you can leave some snipe - just make sure the board is true at the shoulder.
Once I came to terms with this. It stopped mattering if there was a little snipe or a significant amount. Fact is a few inches off the end is getting scrapped, regardless. I'm not going to show it on my work, or try to massage it away.
For the record, I do not own the DeWalt. I have owned three. A Bridgewood, a Makita and currently a Delta.
Frank
I probably should not weigh in on this one but I have had a Delta 12 1/2 for about 10 years. I have gone through a lot of knives, I would not even venture go guess the bf I have run throiugh the thing. I have had a little problem with the rollers moving the stock through but a careful cleaning and a new knife set does the trick for that.
I usually do not even have to look to see if I have a snipe. When I do, it is because I have "violated" my standard proceedure. That is to make sure there is support on the stock exiting so that the upward lift pressure I apply to the exiting stock is equal to slightly more than the weight of the stock. I have tried rollers but my hand feel works best.
I have salivated over other machines, only to come back to the old saying that if the horse is winning, keep riding. I'll deal with another when it becomes necessary.
Hey Coolbreeze,
I'll reply even though the planer is long returned.The test pieces I ran through the DeWalt DW735 were 12" and 18" long and 3" and 6" wide.No support is needed on a piece of stock that short. But for giggles I even lifted up on the board as it was exiting the planer to see if that made a difference.....it didn't.It goes back to this as far as I'm concerned, and shame on me for straying off the path I preach.The DW735 is made in Tawain. It's made of plastic. It's light. Cheap. Loud. Vibrates. It's a disposable short lived tool that I should have never even considered. When my old DeWalt 733 finally gives up that will be it for portable tools until Inca re-opens in Switzerland (probably dreaming out loud there).
Wow, that's the first time I've heard anyone call the DW735 light. Weight questions aside, methinks you simply got a bad machine.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Help guys! I just walked in the door with a new 735. Considering some of the negative posts, I don't know whether to unpack it or not. I have an old Delta 12". It is falling apart from use and I am tired of fooling around with disposable blades. I've been using my 22-44 drum sander as a planer and that gets a little expensive using the drum rolls. So, I don't know quite what to do. Think I should go have a hot toddy and sleep on it?
Jim from Woodstock, VT
Goodness, gracious, I haven't gone back and counted, but seems to me there were quite a number of posts from people who are happy with their DW735.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I own a DW735 and love it. I don't have any snipe at all on anything under 4 feet or so. Beyond 5 feet, if I make sure I lift the end of the board when it comes out, I can usually get away with little (easily removed with a hand plane) or no snipe.I do have the extension tables sold by DW. I have also heard a lot of complaints about the blades not holding up. I have not experienced this.Josh
"Help guys! I just walked in the door with a new 735.... (snip) ...and I am tired of fooling around with disposable blades. "Hi Jim - I'm fairly sure the 735 has disposable blades too. The only recent portable I can think of that has stock resharpenable blades, is the discontinued DW733. ....or am I missing something?
I got my new 735 up and running tonight. It's a honey. It does have slight snipe. I ran three 4" foot pieces and two 18" pieces of cherry. I had an average of .002" on the long ones and .003 on the short ones. That is negligible. Final sanding will easily take that out. It really is a solid machine. I only wish it had resharpable blades. Can't win 'em all. Thanks for the input.
Jim in Woodstock
Had mine for about 4-5 days. I have run nothing but clean soft maple with no knots that I can remember and I now have a nice line from a nicked blade(s). Seems all three blades would have to be nicked in the same place to produce that line. Otherwise, it is a nice machine.
I like the depth of cut indicator. It is not that accurate but helps me to find a good starting point. The depth stop is not dead on but close. I am hoping there is a way to adjust to get to that spot. I will want to use it more before I try. When I get real close, to the stop I want(3/4), the hight adjustment gets a little tiight and I am careful not to "squeeze" the point.
OK, my first post here.
I've had my DW735 for a couple of years. I'm a beginner-level hobbiest so I really don't use it that much but I can share my experience.
I had snipe from the very beginning and I just put up with it. It was annoying but I compensated. Yes, I have the tables. Then it stopped feeding. That really, really irritated me and for all intents and purposes I just stopped using it. I'm not one for rational action when I'm angry.
A month or so ago I googled the feed problem and one suggestion I found was to wax the carrier and tables. Maybe I've got the terms wrong, but I mean the entire surface that the wood moves on. Sounded way too simple, but I tried it -- just ordinary Johnson's Paste Wax -- and sure enough, it worked and now it feeds perfectly.
My buddy had the same feeding and snipe problems with his 735. I told him what I did and he waxed his and again, it worked like new. EXCEPT ... for both of us the snipe disappeared. I can't explain this but I can assure you that it happened. I went from hating my DW735 to loving it. I planed some hard maple and purpleheart yesterday and it is as smooth and level as I could ever ask for.
BTW, I bought a refurb from DW. Looked nice on the outside but inside, the machine had been rode hard before it was returned. Still, nothing I couldn't live with considering the discount. However, DW had not replaced the blades, which were ruined. When I contacted them and told them about the problem they sent me a new set for free, no questions asked. Nice people, all in all.
In the world of things to complain about, my DW735 is no longer one of them.
Chuck
"I told him what I did and he waxed his and again, it worked like new. EXCEPT ... for both of us the snipe disappeared. " It could be that there had been a slight drag on the stock right from the get-go, making very subtle snipe much more evident.
Remember to keep the rollers clean, as simply waxing the table when the rollers are dirty will not solve or prevent feeding problems.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Mine is fully equipped and I got snip right out of the box and so did five other owners in my area. I've tried shimming the tables up, cleaning the feed rolls, blade changes, etc.
In hindsight I should of purchased a true planer for a few hundred dollars more. The cost of replacement blades is absurd.
Vic
Weeelll, I'll be damn!!!!!!!!!!!1
I had post # 19 in this thread and expressed satisfaction with my Delta 12 1/2 and its service since 1999. I just walked in from the shop where ai was running a few bf through when WHAM, it had a mechanical heart attack and died graveyard dead.
I could smell something burning and when I started to go into it, I realized that the smell was coming from the belt. It turned out that the belt had come partially off and had burnt the plastic cover. That gave me hope. However, when I got into it, the pully on the blade drive was loose. I tightened that and managed to get the crippled but workable belt back on.
It turns out that the pully on the blade drive is badly out of round. Also, the rollers are no longer turning which I think is what started the whole cascade of problems.
Bottom line is that I would rather buy another than try to repair it only to have another part die on me. I would like to stay with portable.
Any recommendations??? This thread has spooked me on the DW 735
Edited 3/23/2008 5:10 pm ET by coolbreeze
cool,
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100083773&N=10000003+90185+501489
They have a new 3 blade one out now also, but I have had this model for 3years and I have been very happy with it. As long as you don't forget to lock down the cutter head (simply flip a lever on the adjustment wheel) you will have virtually no snipe. And you can't beat the price, it even comes with the stand.
Rob
Edited 3/23/2008 6:21 pm ET by Rob A.
Rob,
I did not see where there was a Dust Colledtion feature. Does yours have a DC hookup?
I am going to buy something tomorrow.
Cool
cool,
Yes there is a dust collection hookup that can be used with a 2" or 4" hose depending on what you are hooking it up to. I have mine hooked up to a portable Delta dust collector and it sucks up everything. I haven't had any problems with the machine at all. It has around 6 different depth stops for repeatedly planing to the same thickness, and believe it or not (I couldn't), if you set it to 3/4" and check it with a calipers it is exactly 3/4" thick. Not .751" or .749", but .750" on the head.
Rob
Coolbreeze,The problem you experienced with your Delta is common to all the Delta 12.5" and 13" portable planers. The aluminum pulley on the cutterhead shaft is too soft. Over time, the fit between the steel shaft and the aluminum pulley worsens until a catastrophic event occurs where the lozenge-shaped key tumbles out of the slot in the shaft and grinds the shaft and pulley into metal hamburger.This is an easy problem to fix before it happens, but much harder to fix afterwards. To prevent the problem, remove the intact pulley and key, fully clean all three pieces (pulley, key, and shaft end) then reassemble with green Loctite shaft-retaining compound. The compound will harden in there and prevent the small movement that initiates this chain of events.I own a 22-580 that was destroyed by this process and repaired it with JB Weld. The machine was given to me, and I made it a challenge if I could fix it without spending any money or more than two hours. Since that time it has worked flawlessly, planing hundreds of board feet. With minimal snipe, I will add. If you attempt this repair, it is critical to use a dial indicator to get the pulley and shaft concentric. Once centered, the pulley needs to be fixtured in position until the epoxy cures fully. This could be done with a gear puller acting as a clamp, but I simply used CA glue with accelerator to glue the pulley face to the nut. Also, use tape to keep epoxy out of the bearing. Pull out the tape and wipe off any residue (carefully!) before it cures.Other tips: If the key is shattered, it is helpful to glue in the largest piece(s) for a mechanical interlock. Or get a new key. In my case, the slot was so buggered that a new key would not have fit, so I glued in the shard.This can also be fixed by purchasing a new pulley, key, and cutterhead to replace all the damaged parts. Definitely use the Loctite if you go this way...protect your investment.Aside from this major design flaw, the 22-580 is a very nice benchtop planer, and the knives are much better than the DeWalt knives. I hope this remains true now that Delta is owned by DeWalt.Bill
Bill, I am not much to work on machinery. I have been listening to what sounds like bearings going out on the thing. In addition, something is causing the rollers not to function. Bottom line, is that I can buy a new Delta 12 1/2 for $209. I think that is rhe route I am going to take.
Coolbreeze,That is fine with me. Your time is worth something, and fixin' stuff is not everyone's ticket to joy. The feed rolls will stop if the belt is dead or the pulley dead, since the machine uses the cutterhead to get the power across the machine to the gearbox. If you buy a new Delta, it will eventually fail the same way unless you do the preventive Loctite fix. Delta has not fixed this problem to my knowledge. If you have a buddy who likes fixing woodworking stuff, maybe gift him the planer, or offer it as a parts machine on Craig's List. I just hate to see salvagable stuff wasted. You should do what you feel is best, bottom line. Regards,
Bill
That is fine with me. Your time is worth something, and fixin' stuff is not everyone's ticket to joy. The feed rolls will stop if the belt is dead or the pulley dead, since the machine uses the cutterhead to get the power across the machine to the gearbox.
Bill, the cutterhead is spinning and the rollers are sitting there like an oil painting.
Thanks
Cool
I see. Sounds like the 2-speed transmission is stuck in neutral.Bill
Bill, interesting observation. One of the two-speed planer (can't remember if it's the DeWalt or the Delta) has a "dead spot" in the switch that causes this problem, and there is a way to avoid it. Do you remember the details??forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
forestgirl,
I remember that discussion also but not the brand name in question though. I believe it was the Delta but can't say for sure.
On the DW735 the manual says to change speeds only when it is running.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Forestgirl,I don't know about a "dead spot in the switch." Do you mean the power switch? The speed selector is simply a rod that slides a gear in the gearbox between two positions. There is a dead spot between the two feed speeds because there HAS to be. If this neutral zone did not exist, then the planer could be in two speeds simultaneously, which would destroy the gearbox in a dramatic fashion. Remember, it must be moved only when the machine is running, kind of like switching derailleur gears on a bicycle. Like the bike, the planer will not shift if you move the rod when the cutter is not turning. It can be shifted while turning the belt by hand, if need be.Bill
Bill, I'm dead on my feet right now, but tomorrow I'll try and find the main thread that had info on that situation with the "dead spot." It was quite detailed, but I can't come up with it right now.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
If your 12 1/2 Delta is one of their 2000 series it should have a lifetime warranty. (Pause for cynical laughter.) Where I live Delta service is like DW -- overpriced if you can find it. My Delta was still working, but I've replaced it with the SC. It's Chinese and hasn't been around long enough to have a track record, but gives a 5 yr warranty from a company whose service seems to be very good. I chose it over the Makita (which has a great reputation for longevity) because it has more features -- 3 blades, 2 speeds, etc. However like most newer designs it costs over $400. At the moment you can add a motorized dust collector for $50. I'm happy with it's performance, but haven't had it long.
Jim
I'll tell you my opinion based on my experience: If you buy ANY tool from Delta today get ready to be disappointed.
The make nothing but Chinese junk. Their tools are, at best, kits. Get ready to spend plenty of time with tools, files, emery paper and touch-up paint before assembly is complete. Prepare yourself for a ten day wait while they ship you the part that was missing, didn't fit or arrived broken.
Before you call "customer service", if you can find the phone number, (call your local service center, you can get it from them if you ask nicely), make some coffee and get a magazine. You're going to be on hold for a while. Plan on enjoying a short conversation with a surly agent who will interrupt you, contradict you and finally, tell you to call your local service center. (By the way, why didn't the guy who give you the "customer service" number take care of your problem to begin with?)
After all of this get ready for a flimsy piece of crap that will break just when you need it.
I wouldn't own another Delta tool if the came with a free gold brick.
agreed.Brian
You offered an impressive list of problems with contemporary Delta. What is your solution? Do you have a recommendation on another brand? I have been reading about the different problems with the DW 735 but I do not know where to get the consensus best. I need another planer yesterday.
What is your budget for a planer? I'll give you some quality options and what to avoid. The previous poster nailed it as far as get ready to start filing, shimming, dialing...regarding the eastern import junk.I think I will buy the Makita for our portable needs, of the eastern imports it may be the best one....maybe.It is seeming more every day that the gap is widening. You have Chinese/Taiwanese junk and everything else. By that I mean:CHINESE/TAIWANESE
Delta
Jet
Powermatic
Sunhill
General International
Rikon
Ridgid
Shop Fox
Craftsman
Grizzly
Yorkcraft The nice stuff:
Felder/Hammer (Austria)
Mini Max (Italy)
Martin (Germany) I have their 24" planer. $$$$$
Panhans (Germany)
Laguna (Importer) some machines not bad at all.
General's Canadian line (hard to find)
SAC (Italy) I have their 12" jointer with 4 knife Tersa head. $7,000.
Griggio (Italy) I think Laguna reps them?
Thanks for taking the time to post your information. I really appreciate it.
Since I need the planer yesterday, do not make a living at woodworking(although I get paid for a lot), I am going to go buy the DW735.
Cool
Coolbreeze,
I would rethink it.
Paul,
Nary a snipe from mine and that turned out to be my fault not the planer. I think some folks expect a lunchbox planer to be a hog or industrial strangth and that just ain't the case; at least that's been my experience.
For hobbyist use I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better one. Just take light cuts and you should be fine. I too was leary when I got mine over 2 years ago, but am glad I got it.
Do get the aux. tables unless you have a shopbuilt alternative. I think infeed/outfeed tables do make a difference.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Cool,
Sorry for the rant. I just came in from the shop, working on my Delta bandsaw...
I have had very good luck with my 735. I've owned it for 4 years and am just now thinking about turning the blades over, (although, I've heard that sliding them one way or another will do away with the "nick" marks.)
I do have slight snipe problems on some cuts, but angling the board on the infeed table or leading/following with scrap eliminates most snipe.
I just planed some cherry for picture frames last night. Perfect, no snipe. My 735 is mounted on the mobile base and has infeed and out feed tables.
I recommend the 735, it has worked well for me.
Thanks for the recommendation.
I have 5 Delta machines including the now dead planer. I had a Delta contractor saw before replacing it with a PM2000 this year. I have generally beeen satisfied with the Delta machines but this is a new day. It is risky to buy anything from one of these companies which is being bought by another. DeWalt is no exception. They are now a B&D which I always looked at as a cheap tool source.
I have read a lot of negative stuff on almost everything, DeWalt included. I have read tons on the DW planer. Some like and some don't. I may get a lemon out of the box and I may get one and have minimal problems. It is all a gamble.
I am on my way in a few minutes to get the DW735.
Thanks
Cool,
I recently inherited my father's collection of Fine Woodworking magizines from the early 1980's.
It is sad to see how many US tool manufacturers are defunct. I bought my deWalt tools 4 years ago, pre-B&D.
Please let everyone know your experiences with the new 735.
I think I have purchased my last power tool, at least from the Chinese. Good luck, and remember, count to ten when you leave the shop.
Best regards,
Fred
Please let everyone know your experiences with the new 735.
Here goes.
There is snipe. Today, while making S & R's. I tried to support the stock on the outfeed to avoid the snipe. Sometimes I was successful sometimes not. I noticed if the support was even across the board, I had less snipe. I also notice if I did not support the center of the stock, I would get more snipe on the sides. I was making some rails 5" wide.
Today, I orded the fold down wings and hope that will help. If not, I will be one unhappy dude. I am optomistic that I will eventually whip snipe.
The planer sure is quiter than my dying Delta. All passes were at the slower speed and the finish is great. I had to use a light beam to find the marks. I have not used the high speed yet. Also the planers is user friendly. I like the cut stop feature.
Hi Paul,
I also have the DW 735 and witness no detectible snipe. I have the planer on a mobile stand that I park just off the infeed side and flush with the top of my TS. In other words if I lay a straight edge across from the infeed table on the 735, thru the planer & outfeed table onto the TS top, everything lines up; I get no snipe.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob, that works for you but I'm thinking it is not what I want to do to have a planer that I can use without handling it like a surgical tool aroung some vital organ. Your shop may lend itself to that but mine will not. I have an assembly table (4'X8") that I built to be flat. I had to shim two of the legs because of the floor. I do not know what I would get in fromt of my TS. Add to that the lack of DC at that area it would be a bit much for me to try that.
I also have my 735 on a portable stand. It receives the flex DC hose and I have the flexability of running short stuff toward the wall or turning the planer at right angle for the longer stuff.
I have ordered the fold downs. I have also put a Rigid flat outfeed stand directly behind that in hopes that it will work until I getr the fold downs. If you have not seen one of those outfeed stands, you should. It beats the heck out of the roller type. It tilts forward and when the stock runs onto it, it will just ride up to the flat top.
Thanks for your reply. I have always enjoyed your posts on Knots.
Fred
Bob,
After replying to your post, I made 6 drawer fronts 4 were 11 X 17. Having one side where minimal snipe was not a real problem, I was able to "play with it. On all four, I got at least one really clean face. I had to take the work to the door and look at it in the sunlight to see the slight snipe. I do believe that when I get the fold down on and adjusted, all will be allright.
cool,
OK, I guess it doesn't matter how one gets there. I used my TS as when I first set it up I went thru great pains to make sure it was dead on flat from every angle.
You should have seen the blank slate when I first set up the woodshop! I had to shim the floor basically from one corner to the other on the diagonal nearly 7" over a span of nearly 24'!
Then to add insult to injury the wind blew down 2 Balm of Gilead trees in the backyard that knocked down most of the new drywall. I keep thinking that it could have been worse.......... Old houses aren't they fun.
Still skinnin that elusive cat, just another way,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Cool, re: the recommendation to get a Ridgid planer......given the problems people are having finding blades, that might not be the way to go. There is at least one thread here at Knots, and several in other places on the internet, people screaming about how to find blades for them.
Sorry to hear about your Delta. I have the same model, it's been a good performer. If it died, I'd probably get the DW735 unless there was enough jingle in the jeans to get a bigger planer.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, the recommendation was for a flat top portable outfeed stand. I like mine better than any roller I have.
I did buy the 735. I bought it from a Big Box because I needed it the day before:-). As you can imagine, they did not have the foldown support table which is optional with the 735. I have that on order. In the meantime, that sucker is sensative to the wood passing through the cutterheads. One slight change in up or down pressure will get snipe. I did some work on drawer fronts yesterday and managed to get at least one side with very minimal snipe. the orbital erased them quickly.
I can tell that if I can get the snipe thing under control, I will really like the 735
Read the manual,your tables are not adjusted correctly. Both tables should touch a good straight edge at each end.You will see light between the straightedge and the infeed and outfeed tables every place but the leading ends.You should not get snipe unless you are feeding long stock.
mike
Mine does minimal and almost non-existent snipe. However, I use the optional infeed and outfeed tables.
I recently bought one and used it without the in/out feed tables and had some snipe. After adding the tables I am getting none or virtually no snipe.
Miine will snipe if I do not pay attention to how I handle the material. If I place upward pressure as I feed the material and when it exits I do not get a snipe. Try it and see what happens.
Ray
Ray
If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when do you have time to do it over?
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