Is there anything like a “standard” spacing for dog holes in the top of a workbench? I’m adding an end vise to my bench, and realize I don’t know what would be a good spacing. I’m curious about both the distance in from the edge of the workbench, as well as the “in track” spacing from the vise to the other end of the workbench. I’ve done a search both here and on Google with no good results. I’ve found plenty of pictures, but no dimensions. From the scale of the pictures, it sort of looks like the first line of holes is spaced about 3-4″ in from the edge (and then a second row another 6-8″ beyond that), with a between-hole spacing of about 6″.
Maybe somebody could have a quick look at their own workbench and tell me the spacing (especially if it works well)?
Thanks!
-M.
Replies
I'm interested in what others will say too.
I'm going to add "bench pups" (because my top is only 1 1/2" thick) to my bench soon. I was thinking something like 4" min. to 6" on the spacing. Considering bench vise range that should cover it. Too far apart and the vise may stick out too much sometime and get ya in the the midsection.
Enjoy, Roy
Matk,
I did 4" because there didn't appear to be any hard and fast rules...and its worked out fine so far. I kept them as close to the edge as possible, the rule there was aligning with the vise for adequate clamping pressure and still get my weight over the plane. I started with only one set of holes the length of the bench and one set of holes going the width...I figured I could always add holes.
The only problem I have had is when I was planing a raised panel....and being left handed wanted to continue the left to right motion. I need access to the other side of the bench and a second row of holes and another vise on the other side of the bench to plane with the grain.....or learn how to plane right to left.
Depends on the distance your vice opens, spacing should be less than every "X" inches where X is the amount your vice opens. That way if a piece doesn't fit one set of holes with the vice open fully you can just move to the next set of holes with the vice nearly closed.
This is excellent advice. Now that you've said it, it's obvious. Would never have occured to me though.
Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines as Edward, but it didn't come out that way, I gotta quit doing posts late at night. Think 1/2 "X" that way the vise will not stick out so far.
Enjoy, Roy
I posted my workbench in Feb. so you can take a look. The dog holes are in 1" from the edge (to the start of the dog hole), and spaced at about 7". My vise opens 8". That said, were I to do it again, I would space at 4" because winding the tail vise in and out is a PITA. Note that on the hardware I bought for the tail vise (from Woodcraft, I think), the screw is 4 TPI, meaning 1/4" per full turn, or 32 turns to fully open or close.
Good luck, and enjoy. I can't beleive the difference a tail vise makes in bench work. I rarely use my front vise, and that is all I used to have, so used it often. On the new bench, I used rectangular dogs, from Lee Valley, and recommend them. But I also drilled 3/4" holes over the top, and also use the LV screw holddown, and the other fixtures for this sized hole. Last night I was assembling a frame and panel back for a chest of drawers which had 10 slats, and all around each a floating tenon. The slats are only about 5/16" thick, and had to be spaced properly to allow for movement. Working alone, an extra set of arms would have helped, but with all of the clamping devices, it was quite doable.
Completed my bench two months ago. Attempted to locate the dog holes on 6 inch centers. Since the dogs protrude below the bottom of the bench top you have to avoid the end vise and both top stretchers where the top is fastened which interrupted the spacing. In addition, the front vise also interfered with the regular spacing. After all was said and done, the only person that noticed the irregular spacing was me. I glued a thin strip of oak in each dog hole about an inch down from the top to prevent the dogs from falling thru. Also incorporated the traditional wooden springs on the dogs. My next bench will use spring loaded catches inset in each dog and totally avoid dealing with wooden springs and stops.
My bench also incorporated a 2X8 apron that runs the length of the bench. A series of 3/4 holes were drilled to accommodate Woodcraft's holdfasts. Since the apron is only 1.5 in thick, it was felt that the holes would become elongated after prolonged usage. So each hole was enlarged to 7/8 dia and lined with a length of 3/4 in copper tubing glued in place. The liners could also be used on the top if one wanted to use round dogs. The experts maintain the chief draw back to using round dogs is the eventual elongation of the hole in the bench top.
Regards,
George
Reading this! I think I'm going to drill holes all over the rough cheap bench top I'm reworking right now. Reading this makes me want to build a new bench.
Enjoy, Roy
I am rebuilding my workbench. I'm using 3/4" MDF. My orginal top was "poor mans" plywood. I've put 3 coats of shellac on the MDF.
My question is on the underside edges of the MDF. Should I use 2 x 4 and what would you recommend for attaching the edge supports to the MDF?
Thanks,
Keyfick, you would be better served by starting a new thread with your question than hopping on an marginally related one that is almost 20 years old. Folks tend to answer the original poster's question, not the last response.
For laughs I drilled dog holes into the face of my end vise to add extra length & "pushing" power.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled