I just purchased the plans and video for the Ultimate Shaker Workbench – looking forward to diving in!
Just noticed that there is no dog hole layout for the top (to be used with the twin screw vise on the front) specified in the plans. Do you have a layout available that I could use for this project?
Thanks,
Tom G
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Replies
Here's what I did on my last (current) bench build. HTH.
I'll share these.
There are a few million versions of effective workbenches... each with advantages and disadvantages, and a great deal of personal choices along the way.
My workbench has 20mm dog holes, a Veritas Twin Screw vise, a cantilever (one side overhangs the legs), and a center tool trough - it's not for everyone. Though, it has served me well for dozens of projects.
Hard Maple, 30" x 60", costs about a $100 in wood. I strongly recommend the vise.
Hey,
Just opinion, but don't forget dog holes on the vise. To me, dogs there are absolutely essential. Think of the force you can apply to hold even the most stubborn pieces.
Mikaol
Thanks much for sharing. I am thinking I might initially do a minimalist approach and put dogholes in the twin screw front vise and a couple corresponding short rows going from front to back.
Which brings me to a related question...
In the video Matt and Mike said they decided to not install a tail vise or end vise at all because they never use it on their existing benches. Ok... how do you deal with holding down a long board face up to do, say, planing, scraping, or sanding the face? Seems like a holdfast would just get in the way of those operations?
First, I agree with dog holes on the vise, and the facing board on my Veritas has holes which align with those on the bench.
I decided to not include a tail vise, as this gets in the way of getting to the work... the side vise is sufficient for my work.
I hold-down with the Festool clamps (other manufacturers have similar clamps), or with traditional F-style clamps utilizing the side apron.
Planing long boards is done by spanning two dogs with a board, and pushing the end of the work against the board (Woodpeckers and Leigh Valley have expensive versions of this, or a DIY version works just as well).
Keep it simple, build something... abuse it, use it; then build a better one to your own tastes and needs.
Have you heard of a doe's foot? A planing stop combined with a doe's foot will work if you have a quality hold fast to clamp down the doe's foot. I use Rouseau's shooting board as a stop and usually no doe's foot myself. Some day I would like to add a tail vise some day, but woodworkers worked for centuries without them.
I don't know how far along you are in your build, but in the same spot I chose to build in a wagon vise. I ran a row of dog holes down the front of the bench and it works great without being in the way. The large gap in the bench is a super convenient place for inboard clamping. I used a Record press screw for the hardware. See photos below.
Some folks turn their benches into Swiss cheese, trying to plan for every eventuality. My experience is, don't place any holes until you need them. Then another the next time. You'll be amazed at how few you can get away with.
If I need that kind of hold a pipe clamp clamp in the tail vise usually works. Then again, I use t-tracks down both sides of my bench and 2 rows of dog holes. I try to leave the middle for fitting, dry-fits and beating on when something doesn't fit the way I drew it out.
Mikaol
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