I am making a coffee table top out of quartersawn white oak, 1 inch thick with five boards edge glued to end up 25 inches wide. Is there a process anyone knows of for using the domino joiner to apply breadboards that are tight and allow for wood movement as with the standard breadboard joints. I also plan to use a decorative ebony spline where the table meets the breadboard. Any help much appreciated.
Thanks, Bill.
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I don't own a Domino, but . . .
. . . I would tend to think that the mortises it cuts would be too narrow for breadboard purposes. Generally, I believe you want those fairly wide, so as to maximize strength. I'm not sure how the Domino would do with the over-lapping cuts that would be needed to get the desired width.
A Domino user should be along to provide more useful info, though.
Dominos can work quite well for bread board ends
Whether cutting traditional wide tenons or using Dominos I would also cut a shallow tongue and groove where the tenons aren't, you simply use the Dominos in pairs where you would normally have a traditional wide tenon, say 3-4 inches on center for the pair.
Cut the mortises into the endgrain of the top using the #1 (narrow) setting, glue in the dominos and let the glue set, this precisely locates the Dominoes and results in a strong long grain to long grain bond. On the breadboard use the same #1 setting on the center pair of Dominos, this will fix the breadboard in place, you will also glue these in place later as movement over this narrow an area won't be a problem. For the other, let's say 2 pairs, you want to mortise for them (on the breadboard) using the #2 setting, this will cut a slightly wider mortise than the Domino and allow for movement over the full width of the top, note, these will be assembled without glue in the breadboard mortises.
To bore for the pegs through the breadboard I like to use a plunge router with an upcut sprial bit. I stick some fine sandpaper on the base of the router so it won't skate, then clamp a board (straight edge) across the top to fence the base against. Then clamp the breadboard tightly in place on the end of your top. Now plunge cut one hole through the breadboard at each of the Dominos, place a folded piece of paper* about .008" between the router base and fence when plunge cutting the holes on either side of the center pair, the center pair will be glued so you don't need the shim there.
Remove the breadboard from the end of the top, and the sandpaper from the base of the router. Fence the base of the router again against the straight edge (still clamped in position) and without the shims slightly elongate the holes in the dominos on either side of the center pair. Paint glue in the center mortises of the breadboard and clamp it in place on the end of the top, drive 2 pegs with glue through the center two holes. Drive pegs dry through the remainder of the holes where the Dominos were elongated, after the pegs have been driven through, stop and paint a little glue at the base of each peg and drive maybe 1/8" deeper, this will firmly glue the peg to the breadboard but not stick the peg to the Domino.
* By using a shim to elongate the holes, you create a very slight offset which will keep the breadboard pulled up tight against the top when it expands and contracts slightly.
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