We are adding a new bathroom that will have a closet. We have chosen to use two “barn style” (for lack of better term) sliding doors on the closet instead of bi-fold doors. Basically envision a smaller scale pair of doors that roll along a track like Norm’s workshop or any other old New England barn. The will be very basic, flat, recessed panel, probably with a middle rail. I’ll use a high quality plywood for the panels and probably cherry for the rails & stiles. So, my question is:
What kind of joinery should I use? Should I just go with mortise and tennon? I have a cope and stick bit set, but those are intended for thinner doors (typical cabinet stuff, under 1 inch). Should I buy some other type of bits to do typical door joinery?
Since they slide and won’t be swinging on hinges there is much less risk of racking.
thanks, Jake
(formerly “flamedmaple”, now “ohcomeon” because I grew so frustrated with this @#*$*^% re-registration that kept rejecting all of the names I entered until this sarcastic name and which now can’t be changed – AHHHHHHHHH!)
Replies
Sounds like a cool project.I think mortise and tenon joinery would almost always be my first choice.A loose tenon or biscuits side by side would be my second and third choices.I agree with the sliding door arrangement, I have bi-fold closet doors that never seem to stay aligned.
For that application I would cut floating tenon joints first. I would then do a cope and stick joint for appearance. The tenons will provide more strength and less sag than either C&S alone or with biscuits.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I'd do cope and stick, and glue the plywood panels in. If you glue the panels in, they form a great big gusset to hold the lumber joints together.
The cabinet door cope and stick set you have won't work so you would have to buy a new set and they aren't particularly cheap.
I'd build a tradtional door with mortise and tenon joints. I'd let the plywood float just like you would a solid-wood panel.
Thanks, that is the direction I was leaning in and figured the cheapest, and possibly best, way to go about it would be M&T w/ a floating panel.
Racking isn't a concern, but I do need to consider the best finish for a sometimes damp bathroom environment which is why I figured a high quality plywood panel would be best.
Why would you float a plywood panel? If you do so, you're ignoring a terrific opportunity to add to the strength of the door. Remember that plywood, unlike solid lumber, does not change dimensions with changes in ambient humidity.
Enormous solid wood doors with *floating* solid wood panels are plenty strong. This is a lightweight interior door whose frame will be constructed with strong mortise and tenon joints. It will be more than strong enough.
I wouldn't glue the plywood because it's a waste of glue, time, and I don't want to deal with any squeeze out and running glue .
If I have the frame on edge inserting the panels the rails are oriented vertically presumably with glue in the slot awaiting the insertion of the plywood panels. Glue runs down the rail grooves due to gravity and pools somewhere around the mortise and tenon joints and runs out all over the place. Just a big mess, as far as I'm concerned.
I'm sure there's some way around all this hassle but again, it is a waste of mental energy. The mortise and tenon frame is strong enough to carry itself without locking in the panel with glue. That's the whole point behind mortise and tenon joinery - strength enough carry panels (and usually solid wood panels).
Overkill makes you lose money.
Agree. If you use M&Ts, gluing the plywood panels is overkill. Even old doors with M&T joints seldom fail, and the glues in use 200 years ago were nowhere as good as modern aliphatics.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
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