Replies

1. 
   clampman2 | Jan 19, 2003 09:17am | #1

   Woody,

   I believe that trim proportions are more based on what is already existing (assuming that is your case here), than on that size of doors, heights of ceilings etc. I prefer to have my re-model work blend in with what is there if I am not changing everything.

   I like to keep my plinths lower than you suggest, however. I like to run them no more than 1 1/4 above the top of the base cap. That gives sufficient distance between the two to allow for minor discrepancies in base heights in case you have floors out of whack.

   Taller than that and they don't look right to me. Also, if you go with 12" plinths, you got to make sure you are the one benching the doors so the bottom hinge is not put on at 11" from the bottom as is the "maximum traditional" placement.

   If the hinge is put on at 10 or 11 from the door bottom, you have to cheat the plinth away from the inside edge of the jamb. Then, to get the casing centered on the plinth, you have to cheat the casing even more away from the jamb. Unless, you are using a full 7/8ths jamb, you run out of nailing room for the casing legs.

   Just my feeling.

   Clampman

1. 
   measuretwice | Jan 19, 2003 09:47pm | #2

   Hi - thanks much for your advise!

   Regarding matching, old stuff is not really an issue.  I'm keeping a few doors for upstairs rooms, but other than that the major doors plus all trim will be new.

   I will check out proportions of plinth to base as you suggest (i.e. 1-1/4" difference).  In my layouts thus far it somehow seemed right to have the plinth a bit taller than the bottom rail, and the base a little shorter. 

   I've found it difficult to find examples appropriate for this house.  Stock stuff in yards is pathetically short & narrow.  (It pains me to see this fakey 3" and narrower "Victorian" trim!)  Victorian books typically show much more ornate trim than I want, with base practically as high as chair rail.   8" to 9" base  looks about right to me. 

   Thanks for the reminder about the hinge.  I plan to have 1/8" to 3/16" jamb reveal for both plinth and casing, with ogee on inside edge of casing to contrast with square-cut plinth.  I think the hinge would clear the plinth but it would probably look better to have the hinge above it.  Thus if bottom of hinge is 11" above floor, then plinth lower than this.

   Incidentally, what would you recommend for number of hinges (3 vs 4) and their heights (i.e. distance from floor to bottom of hinges)?  These will be 1-3/4 oak frame with fair-size leaded-glass -- so fairly heavy.

   This morning the Attach Files button appears again so maybe I can attach image..NOPE!!  Went thru the steps but it doesn't show up. Why?

   Don't accept in your family, friends, or coworkers that which you would not tolerate in politicians, business leaders, or clergy.

    

   Edited 1/19/2003 1:48:57 PM ET by Woody

1. 
   clampman2 | Jan 19, 2003 10:28pm | #3

   Woody

   Are you making your own trim with a router?

   Clampman

1. 
   measuretwice | Jan 19, 2003 10:59pm | #4

   I plan to have casings and possibly the bases milled by a local shop.   Or build-up base from stock cap shape above 1x board to which I add a few flutes or beads.  Or use a stock hi baseboard like Ferche F281 or F282- solid wood at top, veneer-over-MDF on bottom.

   Making plinths & rosettes myself.  Thinking hard about making doors myself too.  Planning on getting 2-3hp shaper.  (OK, to be honest I'm sort of looking for an excuse!)

   To ensure a good match, my gut feeling is that it would be best to obtain all material from one shop.   Your opinion?

   Thanks!

1. 
   clampman2 | Jan 20, 2003 12:22am | #5

   The reason I asked was because you mentioned square (rectangular) plinths, and holding the same jamb reveal with each.

   I prefer to make plinths which mimic the profile of the casing to the extent possible with straight angles (ie. no beads, coves etc. on the plinths). Then I run an angled router bit on one end and the inside face edge (sometimes the outside edge too), putting an eighth inch bevel on them.

   I also center the casing on the plinth, meaning hinge placement cannot extend to the plinth.

   I would use only three hinges. If necessary, bearing hinges.

   I scribbled a plan view for you but can't scan it while online will send it in a minute.

   Clampman

2. 
   clampman2 | Jan 20, 2003 01:16am | #6

   Had trouble getting back on. Here's a sketch.

   
3. 
   measuretwice | Jan 20, 2003 02:58am | #7

   Thanks Clampman.  Your sketch has me thinking in a different direction.  I'd never thought about making detailing on plinth vertical -- until now.  But why not?  I'll model this possibility to see how it looks.

   For kicks I have attached my "current" images of casing/plinth/base joint and several plinth/base profile possibilities.