I am building 2 interior doors (8′ x 36″ approx.) made of fir with the jams to boot. I’ve read up on door construction and am comfortable (famous last words) with the how-to construction but any additional infor or tips are always welcomed. Oh yeah and the doors will have heavy glass inserted. This will be my first attempt at this so any feedback is appreciated.
Crpntr5
Victoria Canada
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Jambs?
I have been making and installing jambs made of poplar. I cut a simple dado at the top of each leg almost 1 inch down from the top to match the head-jamb. I then nail through each leg into the head to attach it. Attaching this to the opening is what will provide the over-all rigidity. Make and attach a stretcher across the bottom of the legs to keep the thing together when moving and installing.
I cut about 5 1/8" deep relief grooves along the back sides of the jamb parts. This is typically done to help reduce cupping over time. These grooves are about 1/2" apart. I make the jambs as thick as I can get away with (usually about 7/8"). This helps with screw holding power and gives you more stock to nail trim into. As far as width, I generally make them 4 9/16 for a wall with 1/2" drywall. This gives me just enough past the drywall on both sides. You can easily plane back this 1/32" on each side to flush the jamb up.
Most people would anchor the jambs to the rough opening with finish nails. I have been using high-grade deck screws. I realize that this could be problematic for future removal/remodel, but that will be someone elses problem. I should be dead and gone by then. I have a bit more faith in the holding power of the screws. You can place them along the same line that will be covered with the stop-molding. Or use face-grain plugs.
With a heavy door, I would be most concerned about screw-holding power at the hinges. Not to say that you should expect failures just because you are not using hardwood. Just be careful with the screw holes. When removing/reinstalling hinges, be sure to follow the original thread-line when you re-insert the screws. (don't cross thread them).
Of course, the trim will be an important part of the overall system. It does much to strengthen the jamb by tying it to the rough opening.
I set the top of my top hinge at 7" down, and the bottom of the bottom hinge at 11" from the floor.
Edited 11/10/2005 6:00 pm ET by mlbfreestyle
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