Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Dec 10, 2003 05:45am | #1

   How about a raised panel?  The top and bottom rails would be bent just like the vanity front, the stiles would be straight stock.  The panels could be 1/4 inch thick solid wood steam bent or they could be glued up from veneers over a form.

   John W.

1. 
   pictureman | Dec 10, 2003 06:54am | #2

   Thank-you for your reply.  I had not even thought about a panel door.  Since I have never tried to steam bend, and my current laminate bending form is probably not strong enough to handle the extra pressure, I would laminate the curved rails.  How would you suggest to form the groove for the panel?  Also, what type joint between rail & stile would work?    I like the idea, but it may bring in more problems.    Thanks again for the reply.

2. 
   jackiechan | Dec 10, 2003 08:54am | #3

   Pictureman,

   I do extensive bending (steam and laminate) and curving (coopering) in the custom furniture that I design and build.  Unless you have access to a vacuum press, coopering the doors would be my first choice.  Without a vac' press, it is very difficult to achieve a perfect uniform clamping of the veneers.  This invites gaping between the layers, as well as a non-uniform finished product.  (The panels may or may not come out as precise copies of each other.)

   I wouldn't recommend shaping a single slab for a number of reasons.  First, the thinning and hollowing of the panel has the possibility of releasing tension in the wood thus causing it to move in an undesired way.  Secondly, as the wood is shaped, you will expose different grain patterns than what you see when the stock is flat.  Third, all that milling is a waste of good wood.

   Coopering is your best option.  The stock can be milled from a solid slab, and when re-glued and smoothed, will give the closest visual match to its uncut state.  (Without knowing your coopering experience...) Coopering comes down to a few basic things - geometry (angle of each stave), clamping technique, and smoothing of the panel to achieve the best possible structure and appearance.

   There are a number of tricks and techniques that make coopering a successful operation.  If you are interested, in these, or would like me to walk you through a procedure (again not knowing your coopering experience) - please feel free to ask!

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   
   

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   Edited 12/10/2003 12:55:21 AM ET by Jackie Chan

1. 
   pictureman | Dec 10, 2003 09:14am | #4

   I have been in this forum for only a short while, but from what I have seen and read, you all are some of the most giving of time and advice that I have come across.                        The issues you've raised concerning lamminate bending and the slab method of making these doors are the same issues I have been struggeling with.  I am leaning more toward the coopering method.   One point i did not bring up about this project, which will not affect coopering the doors, is that the vanity will be painted.   I can't stand the idea of it painting wood, but the "boss" says she wants white paint.  I give. lol.     Anyway, I do have some experience with coopering.  A past  project was a set of buckets, so the staves were tapered and beveled.  They turned out really nice for the amount of work involded.     If you would be willing to spend the time and effort, a short tutorial would be great.  Then, if I have any further questions, I could follow-up.         Thank-you for your time and expertise. 

2. 
   dougd44 | Jun 03, 2008 06:18pm | #5

   I am building some columns from 8 quarter oak.  They are 58 inches long and have 8 sides. I cut 22 1/2 degree angles and jointed on a long bed jointer.  I can not get the joints to fit tight enough for glue up.  I have 8 adjustable steel bands to hold the column together. I get a gap on the perimeter of about 2 to 5 thousands of an inch which reaches to about 1/2 the depth of the joint.

   Can you suggest any tricks for a better joint or is this just a trial and error task? 

1. 
   USANigel | Jun 04, 2008 06:11am | #6

   Make your columns in two halfs and then make the last two pairs of surfaces fit.

   Do a test cut on your tools to make sure you have 22.5 degrees. At the moment you have 16 times the error to correct. Good blade on the table saw should be enought for glue up.

   Edited 6/3/2008 11:11 pm ET by USAnigel