Replies

1. 
   screename56 | Jan 20, 2008 04:13pm | #1

   Look up http://www.zeluck.com

   This is a website for some high end windows I have used in the past.  They may give you sme info, technical data, and details of how they build their windows.  It may be helpful information for your own project.

   Good luck, Screen

2. 
   acornw | Jan 20, 2008 08:04pm | #2

   Do you need sash only or sash and jambs? Insulated glass or single or triple glazed? What is your experience/tooling level? How many windows?

   The sash are relatively straightforward - just copy what you see. If you wish to add insulated glass, then the tooling gets a bit more complicated. If you are replacing jambs and sills, then do yourself a favor and remove one unit and copy it. Adapt available weatherstrip to this use, since the original stuff (if any) may not be available.

   The sash can be done with router table lots of patience. A feeder would help. A shaper with a tenon table and feeder is the best way for a small shop to make windows. You will also need an accurate planer, and a jointer to start off straight and square.

   Dave S
   http://www.acornwoodworks.com

1. 
   Caldoche | Jan 21, 2008 02:53am | #4

   Thanks to Screen & Dave S. I looked at the Zeluck site and received some inspiration. Dave, I'm not surprised you are proud of your doors.
   As usual I did not explain myself well enough. Something my wife tell me I regularly do. So, we live in a 50 year old house with only wooden shutters, no glass. Therefore I'm starting from the scratch, just holes in the walls nothing to copy. We live in a benign climate, 20 deg south, and do not require double glazing. My experience is intermediate, though I have been a boat builder for 30 years. The workshop has the usual range of floor standing tools, plus router and chisel mortiser. The reason for wanting double hung windows is; the old world charm that's more in keeping with the character of the house, plus we live in a cyclone prone area and DHW's allow me to close shutters from inside the house. Dave, I was interested to see on your site that you have built over square windows, wider than they are tall. As my openings are about 3'6" square I would have about the same sizing. My concern was that they could be problematic to slide. Plus I have all the other questions like sizing of frame. Best type of joins, if the frames are small, single or double M&T. Counter balance mechanism? Type of wood? We live in a small island so have a limited selection of specie, but we can buy Western Red Cedar (American). I would like to clear finish the wood (comes from my boat building). Is this realistic, or would I be locked into a regular maintenance program? A lot of questions I know, but to be fore warned is to be fore armed. Thanks Caldoche.

1. 
   saschafer | Jan 21, 2008 03:25am | #5

   Hmmm. 20° S. Réunion? Mauritius? New Caledonia? French Polynesia? Inquiring minds want to know....

   The tropical sun is brutal on any finish, especially film-forming finishes. A penetrating oil finish (e.g., Penofin) will give you more protection than no finish at all (especially against mildew), but the real advantage is that it won't start peeling if you forget to renew it. A film-forming finish, especially an opaque one (e.g., paint) gives the best protection, but requires scrupulous adherence to a refinishing schedule, or else it will look pretty bad after not too many years.

   How is your climate weatherwise? Is there a long rainy season? Are there other local (or not so local) woods to choose from?

   -Steve

    

2. 
   mathewson | Jan 21, 2008 04:24am | #6

   I did a job for a guy last year where we needed to make new windows for a addition to match a 100 year old house. The new windows were built exactly like the originals. Full bridal joints top & bottom, jack miter on the sticking. Being a boat builder you can do this with the tools you have.
   The ho wanted double glazing on the glass and wanted them installed such that you could not see the walls of the double glazing. We had to rabbet deeper than I would have liked to hide them.
   As for the lifting system I strongly suggest traditional weights & pulleys. The ho found a system he wanted to use called Spin-balance. Made me wish I had turned down the job. Extra milling, hard to install and worked very poorly.

1. 
   Caldoche | Jan 23, 2008 03:34am | #7

   Firstly I would like to thank all who posted to my enquiry. Yes you are correct. I live in New Caledonia, a little Kiwi living amongst the Froggies. My wife is New Caledonian of French origin. Our climate here is humid but not excessively so. Temperature about 30 during the day and 20 to 25 at night in summer. We have a raining season, Nov to March but it is not the tropical type rain you can get on the Equator. I think that an oil type finish could work for here. I have used Deks Olay in the boating with great success. As yet I have not looked at any local wood. It is hard to find good information on wood performance. As someone suggested weights and pulleys is the system I will go with. It has worked for many years, broken ropes seem to be the major problem. But as I know with sailing boats the high performance ropes we have today are far superior to the cordage of old. I do not have a shaper, just a router under a table. I suppose I can still get the same result but just a little slower. I will probably buy the books suggested. Contrary to what a lot of people would think I'm far more comfortable doing boat work than fine wood work on furniture. I guess it is what you are used to. So a book to lead me by the hand is good. Mistakes I don't need. Thanks again to all. Caldoche. ps; for the curious, a Caldoche is a person of French origin but born in New Caledonia.

1. 
   acornw | Jan 23, 2008 04:28pm | #8

   I'll back up a bit and ask why double-hung? In your area, as in the rest of the world in that climate, hinged casement windows are the norm. Far less complex, easier to do the minimal weatherstrip, and the frame is also the frame for the common exterior shutters, or even additional storm shutters for when the storms blow in. Hardware can be simpler or more complex/secure depending upon need, and the sash remove easily for maintenance. You can even go to the tilt turn route and build the superior type of European windows that are just starting to appear in the US. A great chance to do timber joinery and get high performance windows. However, a large shaper is required. Simple or even paired casements will tolerate movement much better and are easier to maintain by a mile. They don't require the weight boxes, which intrude on the opening and reduce your view. As for wood, I would look around for the indigenous woods that are favored by seaside builders and boat builders. Chances are there are better suited woods nearby that will age well, and at far less cost/impact than imports. Just my opinion.Dave S

2. 
   Caldoche | Jan 24, 2008 03:51pm | #9

   Thank you Dave for your reply. I hear all you have to say and agree with most. Certainly casement windows are easier to build and less problematic in the long term. The main reason for building DHW was for the ease of closing the storm shutters, we can do it from the interior. Call me stupid, but I cannot think of a way to close the shutters on hinged windows from inside the house. I do not want to swing the windows to the interior. We like to close the shutters every time we leave the house because of the bloody thieves, and to have to walk around the outside of the house to do this is a pain. I have found in the past 'if it ain't easy to do it wont be done'. Any ideas on that? I'm not familiar with the European windows you write about, do you know of a web site where I can look at them? I know someone with a shaper that I can rent time on. At present I do not want to go to the expense of buying one. I'm one of 2 wooden boat builders on the island, the other guys an American. The rest play about with GRP and metal. I'm presently looking to find indigenous woods that could work. A couple of the local wood suppliers have shown an interest in helping me. Once again thank you for all of the positive input. Being on a little island in the south pacific it's very easy to get out of touch with what is happening on the wider world and I find sites like Knots tremendously useful. Caldoche.

3. 
   Napie | Jan 21, 2008 02:51am | #3

   There are quite a number of articles in older issues of both FWW and FHB on the subject, (yet another reason the “old” FWW was better…).  Also look for a couple books by John Birchard he wrote a few about window and door making, one titled “Make Your Own Handcrafted Windows & Doors” it was published by Sterling.  And Roy Underhill explains the process by hand in his books, he also visits a sash mill for his show and it was available streaming on his website. Be VERY picky about the stock you by, it will make a huge difference.  A good shaper and cutters is going to come in real handy for a project like this.  Even if you spend the savings on tools, at the end you have both.

4. 
   Ray | Mar 20, 2008 09:27pm | #10

   Do you have a friend or neighbor with the kind of windows you're trying to make?  It would be simple to examine them, then find a router bit to duplicate the edges.  I live in a 100-yr old house in South Alabama and had to make my own windows too.  The casing is relatively simple, a board with a 1/2" slot routed in the center, a 1/2" by 1" strip in the slot to make the divider.  The lower window has a thicker top frame with a notch at each end to accomodate this divider and seal the windows at the center.  The inside/outside strips in mine are 1/2" by 1".  I made bridle joints at the corners too, the original windows had a badly rusted metal pin, so I glued in a 1/4" dowel to pin the corners.  The sides of the window frame have a hole about 1/2" in diameter 6 inches from the top with a slot cut to the top to accomodate the rope, the hole is for the knot.  I used staples too :-) 

   It's not hard, but the first one can be pretty time-consuming.

1. 
   Caldoche | Mar 21, 2008 01:57pm | #11

   Thanks for your comments Ray. But, we are shifting house, so casement windows are the go now. Moving from a 48m2 to a 72m2 workshop. Has to be good!!!!!!!! Caldoche.