I have been working on a variation I devised of the Double Twisted Dovetail based on the concepts behind the version found here: http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailTwist.aspx
(double twisted dovetails lock in both directions so each board contains elements that would be “pins” and “tails” making it a really strong joint)
Anyway, my problem is one of cutting. I have tried splitting my lines on each board, but doing so the width of my blade on each joint leaves it a bit to loose. Cutting just to the scrap side of the line leaves it a little too tight. Feeling frustrated.
I started cutting dovetails about six months ago and cut using Frank Klause’s method. My traditional through dovetails work out nicely now, no test fits, cut, chop, glue up, tap together. But this twisted dovetail is turning out to be quite a test of my ability to accurately scribe and cut.
Any suggestions?
THe dark wood is teak, the light ceder
The joint on the left is the one I’m working on. I’d like to get it nice and tight, then do a box that uses it on all four courners. THe one on the right is my interpretation of what the link I gave earlier suggests.
Replies
Here's the pic. That goes with the earlier post.
you might want to repost that as a jpeg. I suspect most people dont have Photoshop."Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton
Richard Jones (aka sgian dibh) describes the procedure over at Wood Central, I believe...
Edited 5/7/2006 2:25 pm ET by Jimmy
Yes. Thank you. I have sean Richard Jones' article. I think that article may have been the one that got me to started on this. He uses a rounter to finish his very clean joint. I'm trying to build up the skill to pull it off by hand.
Richard Jones article here got me interested:<!----><!----><!---->
http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/furniture/articles_442.shtml<!----><!---->
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THen looking at this dovetail generator's template helped me come to grips with the concepts after a bit of mental gymnastics:<!----><!---->
http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailTwist.aspx<!----><!---->
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John Muller's box with double twisted dovetails on all four corners and article were inspiring as well: http://www.individualfurniture.com/maker/Dovetail-Maker.htm
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First off - if you have any set on your saw, get it removed. I think thats the biggest performance enhancer as far as dovetail saws go. Just like Tiger wouldnt be caught dead with Nike's off the rack, most of the 'pros' have had some fine tunning done to their saws.Second - I find that if I stick my thumb nail in the scribe line and use it to start cut that I get an almost perfect fit right outta the gate. Admittedly that kind of chews up the thumbnail after a feww drawers but hey since my wife lets me get a manicure once a month Im good to go!
Zero set on the saw? Hmm... I have two saws, I could try that on the cheap one I got from Ace Hardware and see how it cuts. Any problems with the saw teeth clogging with a saw like that?
Nope. I assume you have another saw cause cheap isnt the only problem I bet you have with that Ace saw...
earlier pic was a photoshop format. Here it is saved as .gif and .jpeg
Which is the prefered format here?
Edited 5/7/2006 8:36 pm ET by labolle
jpeg this time...
pretty good work.
I like the template website, thanks.
I am going to give it a shot myself.As for the looseness/tightness problem, what kind of saw are you using?
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