Replies

1. 
   Patto | Nov 23, 2004 09:18am | #1

   Would simply twisting a long thin bowsaw blade be the same? - I know that mine will take the twist because I only adjust one end at a time.

2. 
   joinerswork | Nov 23, 2004 10:22pm | #2

   Rick,

   It seems to me that either in that same article, or in a subsequent issue, that a source for the blades was given.  It was a European source I believe, but that was a long time ago.

   Regards,

   Ray

3. 
   mike4244 | Nov 23, 2004 11:00pm | #3

   I'm not familiar with the saw you refer to . Some people use a coping saw to cut the majority of the waste.I tried it, went back to old way with just a mallet and chisel.

   mike

4. 
   billinIN | Nov 23, 2004 11:13pm | #4

   Most I've seen are just that- a bowsaw or coping saw blade with a short radius bend in the middle. Use one end to get to the base of the tail and then use a forceful stroke to change to the other end of the blade and you're suddenly cutting at 90 degrees to your previous.

   Sounds trickier than it is.

5. 
   RickW | Nov 24, 2004 07:42am | #5

   Thanks to all who responded.
   I don't think just twisting one end of the blade would do what this blade does. It would leave a small corner of the waste section uncut.
   As for sources,I re-read the article, and it said that these sawblades were a common hardware item in Hungary.Since I don't know any Hungarian hardware dealers, I'm out of luck there!
   I've removed the waste from dovetails in several ways. I'm not looking for the ideal way; I'd just like to try one of these sawblades and see for myself how it works.
   Thanks,
   Rick W.

1. 
   tailsorpins | Nov 24, 2004 11:13pm | #6

   As was suggested in an earlier reply, the reference is to a common blade with one end rotated 90 degrees out of alignment.  Easily done with bowsaw or coping saw.  However, I use a coping saw with the blade at 45 degrees to the frame, tilting it to the left to drop down into the backsaw kerf, and during the first pull-stroke, I rotate the frame clockwise (now pointing 45 degrees right, and continue sawing out the waste, horizontally, from right to left.  This with the board clamped vertical to the face of the bench.  With practice, and a good rigid coping saw frame, it is possible to remove all the waste to the incised line with only the saw.  Little, if any, chisel-work is necessary for well fitting dovetails.  No chopping, ever, only slight paring using chest pressure on the hand clenching the short handle of a beveled paring chisel. 

   John 

2. 
   Kell | Nov 24, 2004 11:28pm | #7

   Rick

   I remember seeing Roy Underhill demonstrate this on the Woodwright's Shop some time ago.  Basically, the blade of a coping saw (or equally thin blade) is twisted at 90 degrees.  One saws down using the "normal" blade to just before the bottom of the cutout and then pushes the saw further into the cut.  The bend causes the blade to suddenly be cutting sideways, across the bottom of the cutout.  I recall it working pretty neatly but I don't know that it was all that spectacular enough to turn a blade on one of my saws just for this purpose.

   You might want to check the library for copies of his books and see if it's in there.

   Kell