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I seem to have a recurring problem with my router when I cut dovetails. I use a Porter Cable D-handle router with a leigh jig. When I cut half-blind pins the dovetail bit descends of it’s own accord – ruining the board. I have tightened the collet repeatedly. I have tried another router and gone through the same process. It this problem endemic to all of dovetailing or is it just me? Is there a solution?
Peter Syvertsen
Replies
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Peter, if you have the same effect (a durned dangerous one) on two routers, it is the bit. Throw it away. Because I am a coward, I would replace the collet as well, in case the bit damaged it. Why am I so frightened by this symptom? What happens when the bit drops far enough to eject from the router?
If you want the best results from your Leigh jig, upgrade to bits with 8 millimeter shanks. The collet is available from Porter-Cable, and all the top bit manufacturers make 8mm bits.
Dave
Leigh jig instructor, Dallas Woodcraft ;-)
*Thanks for the info. Actually I've been using 8mm Whiteside bits with a Whiteside insert for my 1/2" collet. I thought it might be the collet-insert - maybe I should try the porter cable 8mm collet.
*AH! OK, now I have a 90% certainty of what your problem is.When you put in the insert, you -need- (like, NEED) to align the slots in the insert with the slots in your collet. If they don't align, the insert seizes when you tighten the collet, and you don't get a good tight.Inspect the shaft of the bit carefully. If it shows no scratching you probably are OK to use it. I still would recommend getting the 8mm collet from Porter-Cable though, it is just one less thing to go wrong.Dave
*Cut them by hand. If you're a pretty good woodworker you'll need exactly four practice boards before you're ready to cut a live joint on a real project. Sound better than a screaming router and an expensive jig?
*Bingo!! Thanks Dave - that did the trick!!
*Glad to have helped, Peter.Dave
*hia second motion to cut dovetails by hand. i bought a leigh jig to make things go faster- but they just got more difficult w/ more tearout & crappy tolerances. i took it back.it was tons easier to cut them by hand for me, maybe even faster. who knows?fwiwalex
*I sold my Leigh jig last month at a tool-swap. I used the 'bear ears' template on a some children's furniture and then it sat gathering dust for the most part.
*Pat Warner had a suggested replacement nut and "bolt" for the PC 690 fixed base router. Mine gradually worked loose. Since I substituted those parts the problem has been solved. You might try searching his web site for the fix. I think his site is http://www.routerman.com, else click on his name on any of his postings on FWW site. But I also agree with the suggestions to try hand cutting.
*Pat's web site is http://www.patwarner.com .Dave
*The jig is marvelous in a production environment. It depends on what your definition of a production environment is. Drawers for one case piece don't warrant a jig in my opinion. Drawers for five case pieces might.In building one-of pieces I believe that there is too much danger of ruining valuable project stock with a router and jig. Assuming one is using really nice stuff for drawer fronts it's just too big a risk.Just when you've got the jig down pat, a screw comes loose on your damned router. Too many variables, too many unknowns. A minor slip with a dovetail saw can usually be fixed without any problem. There are no minor slips with a bit rotating at 25,000 r.p.m.
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