Can someone please point me in the right direction for learning how to make hand cut dovetails (books, videotape, etc…). I have been looking on the forum and have seen a reference to Frank Klaus’ video tape and using the Adria dovetail saw. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks…
Mike
Replies
If I'm not mistaken, Danford Jennings posted a little "clinic" in here on methods for hand cut dovetails. Search the forum and see if you can find it. Or maybe if Dano sees this, he'll point you there. The guy really knows his stuff.
Mike,
I don't recall my posting a primer on dovetails on this forum but......I just happen to have a primer that I did on another forum (it's easier to paste it here than to do a search):
Dovetails are an interlocking joint used primarily to join two pieces at the end grain; some exceptions would be a carcass dovetail, sliding dovetail, and the showcase joint to name a few. Dovetail joints have tremendous strength as a result of the tails having a slope that interlock into a corresponding socket and pins. Typically, a slope of 1:5 is used for carcass work, 1:7 for drawer work, and 1:8 for very fine decorative work. There are lay out templates that can be purchased, or they can be shop made; I use and adjustable bevel. Once some degree of proficiency is acquired, you will be able to set the adjustable bevel by eye.
There are a wide variety of dovetail joints from the through dovetail to the showcase joint. For this discussion I'll stick to the through and the half blind.
As is generally the case in working with wood, one's success begins with laying out. In joinery, precision is a must. I use a marking knife for all my laying out. My teacher told me, "Dano, the firsta cut isa the lasta cut." This makes very good sense when you consider that you will be finishing the joint with a paring chisel, as you will see. I will also mention here that a dovetail is not "chopped", ever; it is cut.
So, the tools I use are the above mentioned adjustable bevel and marking knife, try square, a dovetail saw, and paring chisels. Cutting dovetails is a ripping operation, so make sure that your dovetail saw has a rip tooth set, some don't.
LAYING OUT THE TAILS
I prefer laying out and cutting the tails first, others prefer laying out the sockets first; to each his own, I'm not here to debate which is best. I find that by cutting the pins first, it is easier, quicker, and more accurate to lay out the sockets from the cut tails. The two sides that are to be joined do not have to be of the same thickness but each must be consistent across the grain and parallel along the grain. Your stock must be perfectly four squared and the ends perfectly squared as well.
Before actual lay out begins, number of tails and spacing must be determined allowing for 1/2 a pin on either side. Again, as one gains proficiency, the eye can be trusted but a novice or beginner should use the following. In laying out the tails I start with what will be the inside corner, you don't want any lay out markings on the outside of the piece. For through dovetails, the base line is the exact thickness of the "front" piece, I scribe this mark by standing the side on end and butting the front piece up against it, all against the fence on my table saw so I have a perfect right angle. For a half blind dovetail, the base line should be about 3/4ths the thickness of the front piece's thickness, use your try square to scribe this line. Scribed with a marking knife, this first cut will also become your last….
That being done; let's use a 1/2" pin thickness, at the end, and say that you want 5 tails. On the face measure in from the side 1/4" (half the pin) and make a "dot" using a hard lead and sharp pencil, repeat for the opposite side. Registering the try square on the end, line the blade up on the dot and very lightly scribe a line with the pencil, repeat on the other side. Now, take a rule, line the corner of the scale on one line then line up the "5" on the other line, the rule will be at an angle (unless the stock is 5 1/2" wide) make a light dot with the pencil at each whole number marking on the scale. Using your square, line the blade up to each dot and lightly scribe the line. These lines are the centerlines of the pins. Take your adjustable bevel (set up to the desired slope) or template, line it up 1/4" to the side of the centerline of the pin (end) scribe that line using a marking knife to the base line. Do this on both sides of the centerlines. The result will be that you now have 5 dovetails equally spaced laid out on the face. Using your marking knife and square, carry those lines across the end grain.
CUTTING THE TAILS
Position the piece in the vise tilted to one side so that the slopes of the tails are plumb. I find it much easier to cut a straight line when that line is plumb, than by trying to follow a slope by "twisting" the saw. The height of the work piece should be such that when you rest the blade of the saw on the edge your fore arm should form a right angle to the upper arm or a slightly obtuse angle. The point being that a comfortable position should be taken. I'm right handed so I position my self slightly less than my left arm's length away, with my left foot forward of my right, it's heel about in line with the ball of my right foot, and feet about shoulder width apart. Again you want to be positioned comfortably and well balanced so you can concentrate on the cut.
I use my left index finger as a guide for the saw. Line up the heel of the saw to save the line and pull the saw back a couple of times to start the kerf. Use just enough pressure to keep the saw from "bouncing". Once you have the kerf established, start cutting with the toe slightly up, and then bring down to level as the cut proceeds. Let the saw do the cutting, don't force it and use long strokes. The saw should be level when you stop the cut, saving the base line. Finish cutting the slopes that are plumb. Readjust the work piece in the vise so the other slopes are plumb and proceed as before. Remember, save the lines.
As a little tip; trust your eyes. Don't focus on where you are cutting; focus on where the cut will end. Your hand will follow your eyes.
Now, the first cut becomes the last…..Remove the work piece from the vise and clamp it down on your work bench so that you can comfortable pare with you chisels. If you are not sure that you can hold the chisel so that the paring cuts are square to the face, use a squared block of wood clamped across the piece with it's edge to the scribed mark on the work piece side. Register the back of your chisel against the block and make your paring cut. A mallet should not be necessary, the chisel should be honed such that a single cut can be made just by pushing downward and a single shaving should result. Finish paring the base line and proceed to the slopes of the tails. Once again I will point out that once proficiency is obtained the need for a guide block will not be necessary.
LAYING OUT THE SOCKETS
For through dove tails, I use the same procedure as laying out the base line of the tails with the exception that the pieces are reversed and a squared block is used on the "inside" corner (which when assembled is really the outside corner). I use the marking knife and the tails as the template for the sockets.
For half blind, I use the same basic procedure except that I will clamp the front piece to the bench so it's end is flush with the bench top. I clamp the sidepiece on the bench top so the base cut is on the inside edge of the front piece. Then use the tails as the socket template and scribe with the marking knife. The base line of the front piece is the thickness of the sidepiece, and is scribed in the same manner as described in laying out the tails.
CUTTING THE SOCKETS
For through dove tails the cutting procedure is identical as cutting out the tails with the exception that since all the cuts are plumb; there is no need to position the work piece in the vise to adjust for a plumb cut. However, you will want to position your body for a straight line cut. Remember, save the line. Paring is done in a similar way but they do have a slope. So, if you use a guide block for them make sure it's bezel is precisely the same.
For half blind dovetails, the procedure is essentially the same. But, you will be sawing to two lines; the base line and the top line (the ends of the tails). Because the sockets are the same size as the tails, I will make several cuts across the width of the socket, after the slopes have been cut. Remember, save all lines. Paring the sockets for half-blind dovetails is fairly straightforward. The main difference is that you will use a mallet to lightly tap the base line cut to be deeper. Use a block as previously described for a guide. But, you will pare back from the end to the base line, then deepen the baseline cut, pare, deepen, pare…..until you get to the top line. The work piece should be clamped down to the work surface.
FITTING
Done with precision, a dovetail joint should fit perfectly without adjustments by lightly rapping them together with a mallet. Do not force the joint together. If adjustments are needed lightly rap the joint apart with the mallet, check where it is binding, then make a very light paring cut with your chisel. When making the final adjustments never try to twist or rack the pieces apart, tap them apart gently.
In closing, while this may appear to be long, the actual procedures are not as complicated as this may make them appear. I would suggest practicing on the through dovetail. The key to executing this joint, or any joint for that matter, is in laying out. If the lay out is precise and patience is used, you will have gained satisfaction, enjoyment, and knowledge on this very useful and decorative joint. Practice will also help you to gain "muscle memory" and in short time it can be laid out with nothing more than a marking knife, adjustable bevel, and square. You will be able to cut this joint with a saw and paring chisel, all in very short order.
As some may know, I've been helping a neighbor of mine with his wood working efforts. After a 15 minute explanation, similar to this, then a small demonstration Dave laid out and executed a 5 dovetail joint on 6" wide boards, start to finish, in less than 30 minutes. These were the first dovetails that he had ever cut in his life. There were some adjustments but I was still proud of him, nonetheless.
Challenge yourselves and learn all of the dovetail joints. The satisfaction and pride one attains from using the secret mitered dovetail to fabricate a cornice for an armoire or china hutch, attached to the carcass with sliding dovetails without the use of a single nail or corner block cannot be described. These joints are not that difficult once the fundamentals of the dovetail are learned. No one but you will ever know that you executed them, but the joints will never fail.
Good luck and enjoy.
Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
" no one will ever notice"....The person who made my diningroom chairs did a sliding dovetail on the 'H' stretcher...I thank him weekly silently, 25 years later still no problems...and I'm heavy. Thought you should know Dano
I have read your post carefully and you pretty much cover it thoroughly. There is one point that seems to be missing for through-dovetails or may be I have misread your post in which case I apologize in advance.
After you cut the tails to the baseline you describe paring with a chisel. But you have left out the "chopping" part to remove the bulk of the waste. Or do you use a coping saw to cut most of the waste out? Thanks.
Ben,
Thanks for pointing that out....No, I don't chop out the sockets (or waste between the tails); I make a series of cuts with the dovetail saw then pare with the chisel.....Guess I'd better have a talk with my editor ;-)
Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
This technique of saving the line and paring to it sounds like just the thing I need to make better dovetails. My saw work is suspect but I'm OK with a chisel.
I don't follow how you get out the waste with a series of cuts. Could you expand on this.
Thanks
Bobby
bobbylonghare,
I guess a better description would be a "series of saw kerfs" cut to the base line for the waste between the tails and for the sockets.
Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
I am also just getting into hand cut dovetails.
In shopping for a marking knife I've found left, right, and double bevel versions. I am right handed, do I need all three?
I use only one marking knife, which is fairly light. I tried the heavy "French" marking knife, but didn't care for it at all. The one I use is beveled only on the right side, as you would hold it to use it. A chisel sits nicely in the groove formed by the knife, and I pare a "V" notch, on the waste side only, to start a handsaw.
Joe,
Dunno, what ever floats your boat. Personally, I prefer one with two bezels. FWIW.
Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
Drove me nuts, but my joints were worse when I marked them out with a knife. Went back to a .5 mm mechanical pencil (thought I'd never work in metric units did you Sgian?) and joints passable. But don't pretend that dovetail joints are always dead perfect. I've also learned how to shave a thin slice of wood to fill the occasional miniscule gap between pin and tail. After finishing, it's darn difficult to find the repair. The Frank Klaus video showed me not only how to make accurate and fast dovetail joints, but a number of other great tips and techniques as well. I recommend heartily any video of him.
Hi Bobby,
A better way to clean out the waste while dovetailing is to use a coping or fret saw to get within about a sixteenth of the base line. Then lay the board down and use chisels to pare to the base line from either side. Finally, put the board vertically in a vise and pare down any remaining "hill" in the middle of the board. That's how the Ian Kirby book teaches it.
I'll be happy to show you how it's done next time you're at the Woodworkers' Club. Now why haven't you posted a picture of your chair to the Gallery?
--JJK
Mike Jim Kingshott has a good vidio also. Good luck Jerry
Fine Woodworking had a video on this subject a while back. Seems to me it was not too expensive. Check that web site, or the local library or perhaps 'Woodcraft' stores. There should be an available source somewhat close. The information posted here is excellent, but sometimes it helps to actually see the operation from layout to finish.
Tom
I recommend Ian Kirby's book, "The Complete Dovetail." I just learned to cut dovetails by hand a few months ago from that book. It's about $15 on Amazon.
JJK, I agree kirbys book is a great resource for learning to cut dovetails ;between his book,and Roy Underhill,s books,and Frank Clause, video.and a little practice,any one can become a master dovetailer.
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