I need some help. I am making a sideboard, with many stops and starts since I do have a day job. Anyway, the base of the piece is a solid wood carcase, 7/8″ cherry, half blind dovetailed, with drawer dividers installed with sliding dovetails. Bottom drawer is 8″ by 46″ or so. On one side, the carcase is very square; on the other side there is 3/32″ run out from square, with the gap at the top. I am in the process of fitting the drawer fronts, which are solid stock with flame cherry on the front and red maple on the back, veneered, total thickness of front is just over 15/16″. The drawers are inset, and I will add a cockbead later. The general method of construction and joinery is per the Bird article in FWW on the Pa. Secretary. Just that my wife felt a sideboard/hutch would be more useful than the secretary.
I am thinking that if I make the drawer front fit with an even reveal, then when I dovetail the sides in, which I will do by hand cutting them, the side will not be square with the front, and this will or could be a problem. So, I thought that perhaps I could recess the drawer side on this side only by this 3/32″, and then after cutting the ½ blind dovetails, trim the front at the required angle to give an even reveal between the drawer front and side of carcase.
Re-making the carcase is not an option.
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Replies
can you split hairs without making it look wrong? Half the difference gently shaved off the edge of the face frame, half the difference worked into a slight offset between the drawer face and the side? I don't know that there's a good answer to this. I'd be inclined to make the face look right at the expense of the side to drawer face fit. Slight lesser of two evils.
I don't think that I can do this. We are talking about a vertical run of 8 1/8", out 3/32". I don'tknow how I could take such a taper off of the carcase side accurately. The taper would have to be the full depth of the case, about 18". I guess I could do it with a rabbet plane, but this would be quite difficult.
Edited 10/11/2002 1:44:41 PM ET by s4s
If I understand the problem correctly you want to square up the entire height and depth of one case drawer side. Make a ramp that is out of square 3/32" and 18" long that your router will slide on. I would square up the front 2" with hand tools, and take off the last 16" with the router.The area at the back where the router base prevents going all the way back can be relieved with a sharp chisel or just sanded.
I am assuming any drawer stretchers above or below can be removed or not in to begin with.If this suggestion will not work for you, I would relieve the area with hand tools , sandpaper or whatever is easiest.It's a lot more work but probably the best in the long run.
Good luck mike
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