Replies

1. 
   dkellernc | Jan 11, 2009 09:42pm | #1

   I don't have an "easy way", but there's an excellent method discussed in Ian Kirby's book.  If you don't have it, your local library should.  Well worth reading.

1. 
   stevo1952 | Jan 12, 2009 07:14pm | #2

   I have Kirby's book "The complete Dovetail" and I dont see it referenced in there. I did find it in Frid's First Volume though.
   thanks,
   Steveo

2. 
   SgianDubh | Jan 14, 2009 12:11am | #3

   The following description is text I have modified from page 199 of Ernest Joyce's book to make it easier to understand. Note the reference provided in the attached image.

   Double bevel dovetail joints.

   A full size drawing is necessary from which the true  length (A) and true width (B) can be obtained, see below; also the edge bevel in the thickness of each piece shown by the arrowed lines (C). All the bevels are marked and worked holdingthe bevel gauge at right angles to the edges of the sloping ends and not parallel with the sides.

   A marking gauge cannot be used for setting out the dovetails;  their depths, etc must be marked with pencil and adjustable bevel. The dovetails are cut to slope equally either side of lines drawn parallel with the top and bottom edge of the tail board, see elevation, top left in image. The sawn edges of the matching pins are, of course, parallel with the edges of the board from which they are cut.

   In cutting the dovetails described above the piece of wood should be canted to bring the cuts vertical, see right hand drawing below. Marking the pins by drawing the saw point through the tail kerfs is difficult owing to the slope. Therefore it is better to chop out the dovetails and mark round them on to the pin piece with an awl. Slainte. View Image

   Richard Jones Furniture