Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Mar 21, 2001 05:07pm | #1

   *
   Ivan,

   If it were me, I would use the through dove tails. For the bottom, I would rabbit the sides, 1/2 the thickness of the side stock in depth. This way you can nail or screw the bottom to the sides and won't have to concerned about the nail or screw holes showing.

   FWIW, there is an interesting article in FWW, vol. 148 (current issue), on joint strength. I highly recommend that you obtain a copy.

   Dano

1. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Mar 21, 2001 07:03pm | #2

   *Like Dano said, the dovetail will be stronger. Either will likely be stronger than needed anyway. Curious how you would drill the hole for that dowel, though. ;-)I build dovetailed boxes to stay in practice for my Leigh classes. I've made rabbeted bottoms like Dano detailed, I've put them in grooves. I made a Cherry box with the Cherry bottom inserted into an extra-deep rabbet, and used 1/8" square Purpleheart to house it. Came out slick.Just be careful how you restrain the bottom, since two of the sides must be cross-grain.Dave

1. 
   Major_H._Patterson | Mar 21, 2001 11:52pm | #3

   *Ivan. Somewhere in the postings,maybe now in the archives,is a fairly complete description of the method I use for my blanket chests. pull up the search box and use my name.You will be able to see all the postings going back a year or more. if you don`t find it,send me an e`mail and I will try to find it for you and send you the page. I use through dovetails with the 1" spacing. I set the bottom panel in a groove in the sides and ends.The bottom panel is full length minus 1/16",no allowance being necessary in this direction.I make the width 1/4" undersize to allow 1/8" each direction for wood movement. After glue up, I center the bottom panel and glue a 1/2"X1/2"X1-1/2" block to the ends and bottom panel,on the center line, to be sure that any movement takes place from the center out in each direction. FWIW PAT