Hi there
I have allways been interested in woodworking and as a result I have just bought a MINI-MAX Lab 260 universal machine.I would greatly appreciate it if there is anyone who could give me some tips on how to fine tune this machine. ie the fence seems to be very basic and loose even when tightened to the last and also there seems to be a large tolerance blade insert.I would like a zero tolerance insert to help prevent tearout.
I would love to hear any ideas from other woodworkers about how to maximise the use and the effeciency of this machine.
Yours sincerely
Novice woodworker
Replies
Twidelywinks:
In addition to any help you get on this forum, I suggest you pose your question, if you have not already done so, on the MiniMax owner's group:
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/MiniMax-USA/
I have a Felder combo with slider. I look at your machine on the web and I see it has a slider as well. You will find that you hardly ever use the ripping fence, once you get used to using the sliding table.
Notwithstanding, your fence shouldn't be loose… Have you tried giving the MM people a call? They have a good reputation for service and support. Try Sam Blasco.
I, too, started relatively recently. I found it helpful to go to class as well as read this forum. There are a lot of really helpful folk hear who know what they are doing.
Good luck with your machine!
Hastings
Hi Tidelywinks and welcome to the board. Where are you located? Are there any woodworking clubs near you?? The 'Mini' website should have plenty of answers about the machine but a woodworking club will get you started properly (safely) and give you plenty of guidance.
What you're looking for (last paragraph) is called a 'zero clearance throatplate'. You probably can buy one for lots of $$, but most of us make our own out of plywood or MDF.
If you're a true novice as you say, your next purchase should be a set of safety glasses, a dust mask and some form of hearing protection. There are lots of different dust masks, but the white paper ones WITH the breathing valve' will be good for most dust situations. They are about $4 in Home Despot or Lowes. All these items have been covered quite thoroughly in past threads on this board. After you have them, USE THEM. get in the habit of thinking about your own safety.
Next on the list is a 6" machinists square for checking out your setup of the saw blade.
After that, start with something simple and then make each project more complex AND better than the last one.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY
As well as requiring at least one new tool. :>)
Thanks for the reply bud .To awnser your questions Ilive in the rep of Ireland, there is no such thing as a woodworkers club over here and I have a dust extractor and other bits of equipment needed to start up a small workshop. I have some experience as a site carpenter but would like to start making furniture but have little or no knowledge of where to start.Hence the reason that i am looking for someone with experience working the Lab 260 to maybe give me some ideas on how to get started.America seems to be far more woodworking orientated than over here.Cabinates are mainley made from mdf and screwed together ,not the kind of standerd that would be accepted into the gallery of Fine Wood Working I think
I hate to say it but there is a lot of MDF furniture here in the USA. The termites who manufacture this stuff (s***) don't even use screws, just air-driven staples and an occasional dab of glue. If you're looking for furniture ideas, look at the list of books that Taunton has issued. Lots of 'period' info and plans. Since I'm on this side of the pond, I have no idea of what the furniture market is 'over there'. Is there a Cabinet-makers Guild or something similar that can help you? Are there any Art Galleries that show better woodworking, and if so, perhaps they can be of some assistance, telling you at least what is popular, or, better yet, unpopular so you don't spend a lot of time making pieces that no one is buying.
SawdustSteve
"there seems to be a large tolerance blade insert.I would like a zero tolerance insert to help prevent tearout."
Twidely-
I believe your model has a scoring blade in front of the main blade. The scoring blade, as its name implies, makes a small scoring cut on the underside of stock before the stock is cut by the main blade. It is a more effective way of eliminating tearout than a zero-clearance throat plate because it is effective at any tilt angle of the blade. The large slot for the blade is necessary to accommodate the full range of tilt angles.
Might I suggest you also join a few groups in Ireland/UK? I belong to a British forum called UK Workshop which has a very active membership including several very well known names from the world of fine cabinetmaking. We have several members with MiniMax machines and a number of our members reside in the Republic of Ireland and can therefore offer you local gen. when required
Scrit
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