Actually I’m having two problems with draws that I’m building for a desk. The draws themselves are designed to sit flush with the front apron and they were designed with dadoes on either side so they could slide along wooden rails mounted to the draw frames of the desk.
When I first installed them, any slight pressure side to side when opening or closing would caused them to bind. I’ve since increased the depth of the dadoes a bit. This has helped only moderately, but it has also compounded my installation problems because now the draws tend to hit the sides of the front apron when closing.
I was thinking of installing a bottom “centering rail” to help guide the draws. If I were to go down this path, how would I go about aligning and affixing the rail to the frame so that the draw slides straight? Note, the draw is accessible from the bottom of the draw frame when it’s installed.
I’m not yet committed to the centering rail option. Any advise on this solution or another option would be very appreciated.
Steve
Replies
Steve,
From what you describe, they're too loose.
Traditional drawers should be fitted so that there's a cigarette paper's gap (max)between the drawer side and the kicker, as well as the drawer sides and the guide.
In your case, having the drawer guide being a groove/housing cut into the drawer side, it's important to have minimal side play in the drawer to ensure that the drawer doesn't twist and bind onto the runners
You could always try gluing a veneer strip onto the face of your drawer guides (ledger strips.) Best case is that it fixes the problem, worst case is that you have to sand it off.
Cheers,
eddie
ps (edit): Is it possible that the depth of the groove is not a uniform depth along the length of the drawer side. Would also cause your problem.
Edited 11/25/2003 7:33:19 AM ET by eddie (aust)
At this stage, it looks like I have a lot of tweaking to get these draws to operate correctly. I think this will be the last time I use a set of runners. There are much better installation techniques for draws.
Forgot to mention (assuming that you'd already done so), try putting wax onto the drawer guide, particularly the upper bearing surface - maybe reducing friction is the cure.
eddie
Sbaia,
I've only built about a dozen projects with one or more draws. Each time I look for 'how-to' information and find darn little out there about installation and fitting the draw to the opening. What I have done in the past is screw the kickers to the carcas sides and shim to get the perfect fit ...or as best fit I can.
It would seem to me your situation needs an element that you can tweek also. Adding a bottom guide at this time might require significant changes...and end up with two draw support systems. I think your close to making it work...keep going...if nothing else we'll all learn something
My favorite drawer design for the kitchen...I've made dozens of them.
Eddie is correct...you made your with too much clearance. Try recutting the slides mounted in your carcase frame and try again.
Hard species of wood like oak and hard parafin wax is a must for lube.
Bob,
It's a good idea to replace the slides for a tighter fit, but I'm afraid I'll cause too much damage trying to remove them.
I might be easier just to install some guide rails on the left and right side of the draw openings. That would prevent the need to refit the slides or to add a centering guide rail.
Thanks for the advice.
Steve
Get some West System epoxy....clean your drawer-slide dados with acetone and dry....brush unthinned epoxy immediately followed by thickened epoxy in a thick coat at the bottom of those dado's...let cure.
Remachine the epoxied dado bottoms with a plunge router and bottoming bit a couple 1/1000's at a time until you get the fit you need.
You can even buy a tube of their brown dye for the epoxy if aesthetics are a concern.
Edited 11/26/2003 4:33:57 PM ET by Bob
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