Replies

1. 
   rwdare | Feb 10, 2009 01:22am | #1

   The only reason to use blind holes is if you have a side that you don't want the pegs tp show on. BTW if you drill all the way through, you can drive the pegs out and disassemble for repairs.

   Dick

1. 
   LakelandDave | Feb 10, 2009 02:10am | #3

   Thanks Dick - I like the idea of drilling all the way through, but one concern I had was splintering out some of the wood on the exit side. Any thoughts about how to avoid that.

1. 
   AdamCherubini | Feb 10, 2009 02:15am | #5

   Yeah, you want to taper your pegs to prevent that. I put mine in the pencil sharpener. That's another reason to bore thru. Drive the peg until the taper is clear. Choose very straight grain for the pegs. I prefer not to use pegs that I didn't split out myself. Also, they should be super dry. I split pegs in batches and set them aside to dry. I make them in a dowelling plate and skip the last hole until I'm ready to use them. Drawboring rocks. I'm surprised Samson isn't a fan of it. It really sucks the joint up tight. I love hearing my pegs sing like nails when they go in. Very satisfying. Hard to find an operation in woodworking more satisfying. A project without drawboring is like a day without beer. You can get thru it I guess. But why?Adam

1. 
   Samson | Feb 10, 2009 02:55am | #6

   Dunno.  My joints seem tight without it.  ;-)

   I'm a firm proponent of the KISS principle.  If it's not necessary, it is just something else that can go wrong of that takes extra time to make.

   I could imagine using it for unclampable m&ts.

   If I want to make an m&t stronger, my first choice is usually wedges.

   View Image

   View Image

   Edited 2/9/2009 7:12 pm ET by Samson

1. 
   LakelandDave | Feb 10, 2009 04:44am | #9

   Thanks again, Samson, your work is beautiful, and far beyond what these old hands will be able to accomplish.

2. 
   AdamCherubini | Feb 10, 2009 05:41am | #11

   Looks great Samson! Just beautiful woodwork. Drawboring of course, does something different from wedges. It sucks up the shoulder. Drawboring doesn't improve the fit of th tenon in the mortise. Also, as the mortse piece shrinks, the joint stays nice and tight. Wedges can help too, but in a different way. They aren't mutually exclusive.Adam

3. 
   Samson | Feb 10, 2009 06:19am | #12

   Don't get me wrong.  I'm intrigued by draw boring.  I mean if I took it up I'd have to buy an Isles or LN pin set, right?!!  So it's been hard to resist.  But really, I have yet to see the need. 

   Earlier on in my woodworking odyssey, I had bad experiences with parts going together part way and seizing with no reversal possible and the like.  I've had hurried hand carved dowels blow out the backs of stiles, etc.  I worry that drawboring might invite further ham handedness along these lines, perhaps.  It seems like missmatching holes is a recipe for possible disaster.  Your tapering procedure no doubt would help. 

   My latest pinning from a couple weeks back:

   View Image

2. 
   LakelandDave | Feb 10, 2009 04:42am | #8

   Thanks Adam - Very informative, and I appreciate it. I'm looking forward to seeing if I can get the same pleasure out of it that you seem to.

2. 
   Samson | Feb 10, 2009 01:34am | #2

   Personally, I don't see the need for draw bore joints these days.  Glues are plenty strong.  Regular dowels without an offset can provide an extra bit of mechanical hold.  There is much less than can go wrong when you don't have to offset anything, and indeed, can just drill after the glue has set in the m&t with clamps in place. 

   For drawboring, I might use dowels with more strength and hardness than walnut.  Oak or hickory come to mind.

1. 
   LakelandDave | Feb 10, 2009 02:14am | #4

   Thanks Samson - I guess when you get right down to it, part of the reason I want to go ahead with the drawbore is to try to learn something new. If I have problems - then I've learned something - - - if not - then I've learned something. I appreciate your comments on using stronger dowels. I'll give that some thought.

3. 
   Tom7 | Feb 10, 2009 03:41am | #7

   I first tried draw boring last month on the base for a Holtzapffel workbench.  It drew the M&T joints so tight.  I ofset the holes by 3/32", used 3/8" oak dowels with straight grain, sharpened one end in a pencil sharpener and drove them home.  It does take some heavy blows with a hammer to drive them home.  I would do it again for heavy duty M&T joints.  And yes, I have seen PVA glue joints loosen up over ten years.  So where there are heavy shear forces, I will always draw bore.

1. 
   LakelandDave | Feb 10, 2009 04:48am | #10

   Wow, Tom, that's a considerable offset. I was thinking more in the neighborhood of 1/32". Perhaps I'll do a test joint first to see how it works out. Using a pencil sharpener as you and Adam suggested sounds like a good way to go.

1. 
   Tom7 | Feb 10, 2009 06:21am | #13

   Chris Schwarz has a thorough article on the topic in the Autumn 2005 issue of Woodworking magazine, "Drawboring Resurrected".  He recommends an offset of 1/16" to 3/32".  1/32" would not be enough to get the full effect of draw boring.  You can download that issue of Woodworking Magazine on their website.

   By the way, I did not use draw bore pins.  I used a pencil sharpener to get one end to a point and drove the pegs home with a dead blow hammer.  The tightness of the joints is amazing.

   Edited 2/9/2009 10:23 pm ET by Tom7