can anyone tell me about the advisability of using drawbored mortise and tenon joints to hold the stretchers to the legs of a workbench, as in Rob Tarule’s Roubo Bench (featured in the Workbench Book). I’m tending toward using bench bolts so as to be able to tighten the joints if any slack develops through the years. But before dismissing this simpler drawbored method, I thought I’d inquire with those with experience. The legs of the benches will be substantial, might even use 4×6 as Rob did.
I am not concerned about being able to knock down the benches in the future, so that’s not the motive for using bolts, just the strength.
I guess that hardwood for the base would be a must for the drawboring to be effective.
Replies
Draw pinning is an excellent method for this type of joinery. Together with glue it will hold your bench together and not loosen up, providing your M&T's are tight with no movement. Pins or pegs look better than steel bolts which are not necessary if the wood in your bench legs are dry and stable and your joints are tight.
I have used draw pinning on pine and spruce with good luck as well. I usually make my workbenches from softwood so it doesn't damage any work that is on the bench. I do use straight grained hardwoods to make my pins for the benches.
Stephen Shepherd
Thanks, Stephen. Yes, I was wondering about glue as well. thanks for bringing that up. And the bolts certainly are unsightly.
What about tenoning the legs into the top (not through tenons), is it ok to glue them, too? I don’t (obviously) have much experience with M/T joints, just getting the feel of them, though I can make a tight joint.
KM,
I have morticed legs into tops on a couple of early benches I built, but I don't do it any more, just in case I want to take the top off and turn it over if the top gets too much wear. I have generally sold my benches before they get too much wear, but the option for future owners is there just in case. I use hide glue for the benches to make repairs easier in the future. I build traditional nineteenth century cabinetmaker's/joiner's benches with a front apron that is 'dovetailed' into the front legs. I m&t the stretchers on usually, but the two benches (#'s8&9) I am building right now are all lap dovetailed, thought I would show off a little.
I also use to put tool trays in my benches but haven't done on the last few because they just collect junk and shavings and cut down on usable bench space.
Chop your mortices first and make sure they are good and square, then slowly fit up your tenons to match. It is easier to resize your tenon than to enlarge your mortice.
Stephen Shepherd
I use bolts with captured nuts to hold the stretchers together on my bench. They work exceptionally well. The legs and stretchers of my bench is made from 8/4 X 6" wide poplar, which is plenty strong for the application. I'd recommend using a wooden plug sanded flush, to cover the bolt head. Just don't glue it into place, so you can remove it easily in the future. To pull it out, just drive a screw into it, and pull it out with a pair of pliers. Works well.
Another option if you're using 2 X 6's for the legs and stretchers like I did, would be to just use through dowels of a contrasting wood. 1/2" or 3/4" dowels about 4" long provide plenty of long grain to long grain glueing surface.
Since both of these methods result in a plug showing, I'd recommend the bolts if you asked me to choose. Tremendously strong and easy to take apart if the need ever arises.
Regards,
John
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