Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Aug 08, 2008 04:47pm | #1

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11144

   I got one of these a few months ago and have used it to mount glides for ~50 drawers so far.  Mounting glides has changed from a lot of muttering and cursing to a really simple job.

   I haven't used it with rear brackets, but don't see any reason that it should be too difficult.

1. 
   dennisd | Aug 08, 2008 11:17pm | #2

   Thanks, Dave.  I will look into this one.

2. 
   stpatrick | Aug 08, 2008 11:39pm | #3

   whether i have  a partition or not, i have just used a piece of plywood cut to size, so if you are 24 deep and the slide is going to be 18 high, the plywood "jig" is going to be a smidge under 24 and the height is going to be 18 or less, depending whether you are using side mounts or blum tandem undermounts, IIUC

3. 
   mapleman | Aug 09, 2008 06:58am | #4

   Dennis,

   You don't need a jig. Do you have a large assembly table that is flat/level? If so, place the cabinet on it's back, and put one screw through the first hole in the slides into the face frame. Don't tighten it all the way, but close. At this point it is hanging freely from that screw. Adjust your rear bracket (mounted on the slide) so that it is just shy (1/32nd) of touching the back, and gravity will self-plumb the slide front-to-back and side-to-side. Screw your rear bracket down and then finish driving your front screw (the one holding the slide to the face frame).

   This gets me real close - seldom do I need an adjustment and if I do it is slight.

   Good luck,

   Lee

4. 
   ring | Aug 09, 2008 04:54pm | #5

   I've been using a pair of jigs that I made for placement of Blum slides. They've been in use for about 3 years now, almost every day.

   see thread 30279.11

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   dennisd | Aug 11, 2008 04:54am | #6

   Thanks for all the great tips...I can't wait to get to the shop to see which one(s) works for me.

   Dennis

1. 
   KeithNewton | Aug 11, 2008 08:36pm | #7

   Dennis. Back when I made face frame cabinets, about 25 years ago. I would make a sub frame which was a U. It was nailed to the FF so the bottom edge was flush with the bottom of the opening, and the inside was flush with the sides, but it hung free of any other connection until the cabinets were set. It was about 1/8" shy of the cabinet back. when the cabinet was installed and level, I would install the drawer, and push it in so the front was against the FF. It was then a simple matter to reach in under the drawer and shoot through the back of the U, into the back / wall. Start at the top, and work your way down in a stack. Since you can't reach under the bottom drawer, you can get close by eye, with only one or two nails. When you insert the drawer, if it needs to go R or L, you can just give the U a bump with side of fist or hammer to bend the nails. Then slip a few shims behind each of them, then shoot several more nails into the studs. It is quicker to do than describe.