Replies

1. 
   hdgis1 | May 06, 2006 07:49pm | #1

   I have always finished my drawers with a light coat of oil that I allow to completely dry and then cover with a coat or two of shellac to seal any odor in. As for how thin your drawer bottoms are, I make mine out of half inch popular and use rasied panel bit to create 1/4 profile on edge. No need to worry about being to thin there.

2. 
   mwenz | May 06, 2006 07:53pm | #2

   Hi Bones,

   Just don't use an oil finish anywhere inside a piece. That's where the odors come from. They off-gas for a long, long time.

   A film finish is good. My preference is to use shellac inside pieces including drawer bottoms. Especially if the cabinet is destined for clothing.

   Take care, Mike

3. 
   Lataxe | May 06, 2006 10:48pm | #3

   I use lemon oil (from lemon grass, not the citrus fruit) sold by the likes of Chestnut.  This is a very light, non-sticky oil with a pleasant odour that tends to fade quite quickly.  I'm not sure what protection it offers but it does show up the wood grain nicely, as with other oils.

   Lataxe

4. 
   DougF | May 06, 2006 11:05pm | #4

   I lacquer all of the drawer bottoms, solid wood or ply.  I have never meet anyone (users) who preferred an unfinished drawer, particularly one that is used for clothes.  For furniture I use 1/4" thickness regardless of the wood type, solid or ply.  With solid wood bottoms in larger drawers I use muttins to better distribute the weigh of the drawer contents.  No failures so far. 

5. 
   HowardAcheson | May 06, 2006 11:12pm | #5

   Couple of things to consider.  First, if you go with solid wood, you will have to come up with a solution to allow the seasonal expansion/contraction of the bottom.  The amount to allow for is a function of the wood species and the range of season relative humidity in your area.  You can go to http://www.woodbin.com and click on the "Shrinkulator".  Input the variables and it will calculate the expansion/contraction.

   Second, no finish will prevent the seasonal movement of wood.  In some cases it can some what slow it down, but we are talking weeks, not months.  In other words, even finished, your drawer bottoms will move.

   Finally, as said, avoid any oil or oil based finish on the drawers or inside the carcase.  It will off-gas forever and the odor will permeate any cloth or open foodstuffs inside.  No finishing is a very valid option and  most older furniture was not finished.  If you want to use a finish, use only shellac or a waterborne finish.

   Howie.........
1. 
   BG | May 06, 2006 11:40pm | #6

   Bones,

   I think drawers are perfect for water based poly..no slivers, no clothes being snagged, no smell. Also, those thin panels glue up well on the workbench with cleats and shims.  

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 07, 2006 05:10am | #7

   BG --

    

      Waterborne has no smell??   I use the stuff a lot (sprayed, from Target), and it is fairly stinky for several weeks.   What are you using, that has no smell?

6. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | May 07, 2006 07:58am | #8

   This may be a silly question, but...

   Do you think your wife would like a blanket chest with the inside lined with cedar?

    

    

    

   Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/7/2006 12:59 am ET by SantaBarbaraSawDust

1. 
   bones | May 07, 2006 04:28pm | #9

   To me, there is no such thing as a silly question. I am making the chest for my niece. The upper chest is to be lined with cedar, but the drawer that will be at the bottom will not. I guess I could use plywood bottom, and a cedar liner glued into the bottom. I had not thought of that.  I'll have to check out how thick the cedar will be.  I searched all over for plans like I wanted, but to no avail.  I bought a set of plans from plans now, that are close but, I plan on Modifying them. Those plans had three drawers. I want a single one. You may have idea there!

7. 
   Ricks503 | May 07, 2006 10:46pm | #10

   I follow the custom of finishing the wood on sides of my projects, not to avoid seasonal movement ( as mentioned above - that cannot be stopped), but to even out how the wood absorbs the moisture and to (hopefully) avoid cupping.

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   bones | May 08, 2006 02:00am | #11

   Thanks for all the ideas, I appreciate the help.

1. 
   RogerWilco99 | May 08, 2006 04:22am | #12

   You can also line the bottom of your drawers with felt. This is what I do on most of my drawers unless they are made from aromatic woods.

1. 
   bones | May 08, 2006 06:40am | #13

   How do you attach?

1. 
   RogerWilco99 | May 08, 2006 03:27pm | #15

   I use 3M #77 spray on glue. It won't soak into he felt like most other glues.

2. 
   bones | May 08, 2006 03:34pm | #16

   How does that stand up over time?

3. 
   dgreen | May 08, 2006 05:00pm | #17

   #77 is what they use to glue the felt to pool tables, holds up very well over time and use.

8. 
   TrueGentleman | May 08, 2006 07:47am | #14

   Finish the bottoms.  It is best to finish all wood surface to help in moisture control.  It creates a barrier that is uniform.  While it will not keep the moisture completele out it will help

9. 
   BossCrunk | May 08, 2006 07:59pm | #18

   Orient the the grain on the bottom piece so that expansion takes place from front to back and secure the bottom to the back with one, small brad.

   Voila.

   Don't use oil inside a drawer.  Pad on some shellac or brush a little lacquer.

   I leave mine unfinished, generally.

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/8/2006 1:01 pm ET by BossCrunk

1. 
   bones | May 08, 2006 08:45pm | #19

   That was how David Charleswort did it. He also suggested a slot cut in the drawer bottom where it is tacked to the back. He indicated thes would allow the drawer to move front to back. I never would have considered that. 

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 08, 2006 09:22pm | #20

   Slot with screw or no slot and small brad.  Both work fine.

   Grain orientation is everything when building and installing drawer bottoms.  Certainly not a Charlesworth invention (although I like him very much) our forbears certainly understood the correct orientation of drawer bottoms.  Just consider it passing along the knowledge of the first joker who figured it out.

   Let me say this - drawers are built, or should be built, to make it easy to slide out an old bottom and install a new one.  I never trap a drawer bottom on all four sides for this very reason. 

   Occassionally, a client might have a perfume spill or other mishap inside a drawer that requires the old bottom to simply be replaced.

   All furniture worth keeping will someday need the odd repair from time to time.  Make it easy on the next guy who comes behind  you.

    

   Edited 5/8/2006 2:25 pm ET by BossCrunk

1. 
   bones | May 08, 2006 11:15pm | #21

   You were correct about the screw my mix up. I never knew there was so much to drawers.

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 08, 2006 11:21pm | #22

   I won't lead you astray.

   You can buy with absolute confidence!

2. 
   bones | May 08, 2006 11:53pm | #23

   The key question is how kindling does it take to make a drawer?

3. 
   DougF | May 09, 2006 12:44am | #24

   How big is your fireplace?

4. 
   bones | May 09, 2006 01:57am | #25

   I have a fire pit down near the lake. At least it would provide light and heat to fish with.

5. 
   DougF | May 09, 2006 02:12am | #26

   -:)