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Replies
If you use 2, that's half a buck per drawer, or a buck for 4! I use slightly oversized holes with drawer screws whose wide head hides the hole. I can get plenty of adjustment using those screws and they are dirt cheap.
Dave
Edited 5/31/2006 2:29 pm ET by Spike2
Spike: Call me clueless, but I still don't understand how to use it. Please explain. Thanks.
Lee's got you covered already...
I should just add that I think they are hokey.M-i-c-k-e-y M-o-u-s-eLee
LOL!I was thinking they are a solution in search of a problem. <g>
Attaching drawer fronts is frequently a problem. These things are one solution. If people have trouble with this process they should certainly seek the easier solutions of which there are several.Lee
When I said they were a solution looking for a problem, I expected that most cabinetmakers would agree that the simplest solution (large hole/large screw head) was the cheapest/best solution, thereby eliminating the "need" for a solution involving additional expense/hardware. perhaps I was wrong...
Edited 5/31/2006 11:16 pm ET by Spike2
You set it in the hole. The plate the screw threads into slides around in the plastic rim. Once tightened it stops sliding.
I have used these drawer front adjusters on cabinetry / millwork projects and found them to be quite useful.
You drill a hole in the rear of the drawer's false face, and set the mount in using a bit of force. It stays put by virtue of the ribbed circumference. A screw thru the face of the drawer box engages the center of the mount. You've got about 1/8" in any direction to adjust. If the screw is only half tight you can move the face from the outside and it will stay put. Afterwards, tighten up and add additional conventional screws to keep it from ever moving again.
The 30 drawer fronts in the accompanying photo were adjusted this way. Don't know how it could have been done otherwise.
DR
Thank you.
There are several easier ways. I've heard of double faced tape being used prior to driving the screws in from behind. As another said, oversized holes in the drawer box will work. My favored way is to drive a couple of small brads partway into the drawer box, clip it off an eight or so proud, position the finished front and give it a whack setting it on the brads. Pull the drawer out and secure it with the screws from behind.Any of these three techniques are quicker and cheaper than the adjuster.Lee
Lee,
I know and use both these methods often. The double-sided tape is terrific, but affords no adjustment after the first contact. Setting brads is also just barely adjustable after you have tapped the facing on. Both these methods require that you set the drawer front almost perfectly the first time.
The challenge in a complex setup like I pictured is that there are too many variables. There is no way you can get the vertical gaps between the drawers to be equal until you have placed the whole row. Then the next row must align with them, and so on. Only after we has all 30 faces in place could we really finally align it so all the gaps look right. I would say we needed to adjust each drawer front 3 or 4 times until it all looked perfect.
As an additional advantage, these front adjusters are perfectly compatible with disassembling things. This file unit was built completely, then disassembled for finishing, packed as flat members, shipped across the world and re-assembled. Neither tape nor brads would have been as accomodating. All in all, I rarely use these connectors - I'm not imlying that it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. But like everything else, it's good to know what's out there because sometimes it can be just the thing.
DR
As far as using oversized holes - in this job if I had to open each drawer and reset the screws to check it I would still be adjusting it today.
Edited 6/1/2006 11:12 am ET by ring
Back in the old days the case would have been leveled and squared in the workshop, then the fronts fitted and attached. Upon arrival in it's new home the installer would have simply leveled and squared the cabinet often using the fronts as indicators. This was very effective on cabinets far, far larger than yours.You mention disassembly. Would you not do all your finishing prior to drilling the holes for the locators? When I ran a small production shop we tried these things out. After finishing the fronts would be drilled, the locators installed, then attached to the drawer box. The drawers would then be moved with the fronts attached. We quit using them due to the unnecessary expense in labor and hardware. But, whatever works for you,Lee
"...The drawers would then be moved with the fronts attached."
Yes, I would usually do it that way as well. This job had several overriding considerations. The fronts are stainless steel (fitted over MDF). The best way to keep their corners from damaging other things in shipment was to wrap all the fronts separately as flat padded packages, not as a pile of drawers.
"...Would you not do all your finishing prior to drilling the holes for the locators?"
Again, I usually would. But we put the locators in the fronts and temporarily set it all up, to be sure everything could be adjusted. The fronts were then taken off and required nothing more except packaging. The wooden inner parts needed finish.
We do lots of kitchens and never use these drawer-front locators. But this was one project I was glad to have them. BTW, I'm negotiating now for what will be a huge job in NY. Lots of questions there, so if I do get the contract I'll see what you can suggest before we start!
Thanks for your comments,
DR
Lee,
I'm with Ring on this one, and have used DF adjusters for ten years. I think they're essential to accurately locate DF's on Euro style cabinets like mine, which have precise 1/8-inch reveals between fronts. Until ten years ago, I tried large headed screws in big holes, but accurately applying the fronts was nigh impossible. Hot glue works in a pinch, but it leaves the front a distance from the front of the box. Tape works okay, but it has to be pealed off so as not to produce the same space the hot glue leaves. So I tried DF adjusters and stayed with them.
I use a 25-mm adjuster which accepts 1/8-in-diameter screws (they're made by Titus). To apply the DF, I put 1-in-od center finders into the two holes in the back of the DF, then I accurately locate the DF using 1/8-inch spacers between fronts, and then press the DF's center finders into the face of its drawer box. After I drill the box front with a 5-mm bit, I half tighten the screws into the adjusters, tweak the front into place, and then tighten the adjuster screws before "locking" the front's position with a couple 1-inch, flat head wood screws. I've gotten very fast at applying fronts, and drilling them with a press takes only a half hour for even the largest kitchen. The price of the adjuster is nothing compared to its usefulness and time saving ability.
Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
Edited 6/1/2006 3:14 pm by GaryW
How about putting shims between the current drawer to adjust and the one immediately below it for getting the correct spacing? I shim the lowest drawer to the cabinet and tighten down the front. Place 2 shims on top of the lower drawer and go to the one above...works for me.
That's what I meant when I said I use 1/8-inch spacers. I've got a slew of 1-in-wide, aluminum bar stock - left-overs from the stuff I use for file hangers.Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
[Knocking myself against the head] I guess I missed your mention of the spacers, Gary. (I see it now, on a re-read) <g>
Edited 6/2/2006 2:01 pm ET by Spike2
Well, whatever floats your boat..., I guess there must be a bunch of people using them if they are still out there. I sometimes forget about production cabinet making.Lee
They are a pure production item. Hafele I believe. For individual cabinets there are plenty of work arounds.
http://www.furnitology.com
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