Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 08, 2003 07:37pm | #1

   The lock miter bit is a bit overkill for drawers, IMO.  Its design is oriented to giving a miter joint strength.  I've used a drawer lock corner bit for one project (not a drawer, BTW), and it's strong and promotes squareness in glue-up.  It's time-consuming to set up, but for multiple parts, it's worth the time.  One of the companyies provides a free set-up block, can't remember which.

   I'm sitting at an old oak desk that is probably 60-70 years old and lived in someone's garage for quite awhile.  The drawers are all made with that very joint, and they're solid as a rock, so longevity shouldn't be a problem if they're cut correctly.

   I use the term "drawer lock corner bit" and "drawer lock bit" interchangeably -- aren't the profiles the same?  Correct me if I'm wrong.  Anywho, it's a much less expensive bit, and it's easier to find both of the two sizes. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   HXMan | Oct 08, 2003 11:03pm | #2

   Thank you very much for your reply. I believe the Drawer Lock Corner Bit and the Drawer Lock Bit are different, although I am not sure why, or which is better. The Drawer Lock Corner Bit (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?sku=5709&filter=22637&User_ID=17542117) has an angle on it, and the "lip" is at the end of the side board. The Drawer Lock Bit (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?sku=2140&filter=92123&User_ID=17542167) is more straight, and the lip is set back from the end of the side board. That is part of my confusion, which is better and why?

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 08, 2003 11:39pm | #3

   Hmmmm, this is interesting.  My Ballew Tools catalog, under the Whiteside brand of bits, calls them both "locking drawer glue joints."  As with the Rockler bits the simpler of the two designs  (the Rockler's DLCB) is made for thinner material (that is the bit I used on my shadowbox, BTW). 

   The more complex one (Rockler's DLB) accomodates thicker material, and would not work well on thinner stock.  [note:  see cutter length for indication of what size material their designed for]

   It also appears that the simpler of the two can be used on drawers that have a bit of overhang in the fronts (where the edge of the front protrudes past the drawer side).  That possibility obviates the need for false drawer fronts in your design, although the overhang is probably limited.

   Whatever you get, I'd strongly recommend a 1/2" shank.  In summary, which one you get would be dictated by the thickness of your stock, and that factor is behind the two different designs -- thicker stock needs more long-grain exposure, and thin stock won't accomodate (easily) the complexity of the other bit.  Does that help??

   [PS:  a posting tip.... when providing URL's (links), leave them standing alone with no parentheses or periods, and they will be "clickable" for other readers.  If it's a long URL, such as the one's from Rockler, you can type a short name for the link (e.g., Drawer Lock Bit), then highlight that phrase and go up to the top of the Composition Box.  You'll see a globe icon with 2 chain links drawn in.  Click on that, and a box will appear for you to copy the long URL into.  The viewer sees only your short name, but when s/he clicks on it, will go to the URL you pasted into the box.]forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   HXMan | Oct 10, 2003 07:43pm | #5

   Hello All,

   Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I am late coming back, computer problems.

   Forestgirl - thanks for the tip on the URLs. I looked at the Whiteside bits. What you say about stock thickness makes sense. I was originally wondering if there was another reason for the differences, maybe not. From the Whiteside pages, it looks like both can be used with overhanging fronts.

   Charles MC - You are right about the profile. Didn't notice it until now. It is shown correct on the Whiteside pages.

   Migrane - (what a name, hope it doesn't happen often) Nice idea. What bit do you use (brand, p/n) ?

   Again, thanks for the replies.

1. 
   migraine | Oct 11, 2003 12:25am | #6

   Yeah, they happen too frequently.

   I have ones made by Freeborn(shaper) and the router bit I had  And, when I mean had, someone else has it now. They must have liked it better than me:(      Don't remember who made that one, but I'm needing one to replace it.  If not, I'll probably just have it made and that's going to hurt the pocket book

2. 
   charlesm | Oct 08, 2003 11:45pm | #4

   The "Corner Drawer Lock" on that page has an incorrect profile picture. The drawer side actually ends up with a groove from the widest part of the bit so that it will interlock with the tongue on the front. The other drawer lock they offer is the same but with two tongues and grooves. Looks to me like the main difference is that the corner one can be used on a wider range of stock thicknesses while the other is for 3/4" and thicker.

2. 
   efarmer4 | Oct 13, 2003 08:07am | #7

   Are all the parts of the drawers going to be made out of plywood?? I'm thinking those bits are for solid wood, no? Has anyone done that -run locking miter joints on plywood edges? I could see maybe the 11 ply Baltic birch plywood but how about 3/4" oak face a/c plywood from a lumber yard?? I'd think the tear out would kill you for that. But if it worked for two plywood pieces...mmmmh... that would solve that plywood edge problem.

   Edward