Hi,
Getting set to build 3 new drawers for the old birch dresser I have downstairs. The sides will be 3/4 inch and the fronts 1″ thick approx. Since I dont’ want to spend a fortune on lumber I thought I’d use pine for the drawer sides and Hardwood(birch) for the drawer fronts since the dresser is build out of birch.
I was thinking of trying out a drawer lock router bit. (LeeValley)Or would I be better off using a lap joint/rabbit to join the sides to the front? Would that hold up? The origional drawers were put together using somekind of drawer locking bit by the look of them.
Wendy
Replies
Those drawer lock bits have not gotten a very good reputation, they're apparently very fussy for what should be a simple joint.
I've built commercial drawers for years with a simple dado/rabbet setup.
Same setup does front/back joints and groove for bottom. Typically I use baltic birch for commecial or kitchen cabinets, but it works in solid woods too.
Simple rabbet on the fron/back leaving a 1/4 x 1/4 tongue, and a simple 1/4 x 1/4 dado set back 1/4 from the ends of the sides. use the same setup to do the bottom groove all around, and slip 1/4 plywood in. For 3/4 material change the setup to 3/8" x 3/8" and then apply the birch front afterwards.
Not the highest end solution, but quick, simple and quite strong. Not homely either.
However you plan to proceed, best of luck.
The older I get, the better I was....
I've got the LV drawer lock bit for 1/2" material, and it works well once it is set up. With trial and error, you should be able to get the different thicknesses to mate up. If you only have a few to do, perhaps you could consider making the lock joint on your TS instead and save a few bucks.
The sides will be 3/4 inch Geeeeeeeeeeeeeee.. OK if ya want to but to thick!
EDIT:: a lap joint/rabbit to join the sides to the front
Router bit is what I would use but OK on a TS too! You already have the blade and no extra cost!
Edited 8/21/2005 11:48 am ET by WillGeorge
I've used a lock-miter bit on a couple projects and it is very fussy to set up, not really worth it for a one-off item like you're making. The drawer lock bit would be similar, but probably not as tedious. You need several pieces of scrap to make practice runs with until you get the settings exact. There are a couple other joints you could make with the tablesaw that would be just as reliable and much less hassle.
You still don't have a router table, right? Kinda tricky using the DLB without a table.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hi,
Thanks for the info.... Don't have a router table yet FG. It's supposed to be delivered early next week. However, I do have a set of dado blades for the TS.
I'm going to forget about purchasing one of those drawer locking router bits if they have a reputation for being finicky. Plus they don't come cheap!!!!
I"m using 3/4 inch material for the sides(pine) because it's cheaper than hardwood and If I mess up I won't be out big bucks. I realize most drawer sides are made from 1/2 inch material. Poplar would be ideal. Very strong and durable. Not so easy to find at Kent or Home Depot.
FG, what other joints could I use on the table saw to build these drawers?
Wendy
Home Depot here in WA State has poplar, but I can't believe how expensive it is! I wanted a piece to just experiment on. A 1"x12"x48" board was $22!!!! Even extrapolating from the prices on their other 12" boards, it shouldn't have been over $16. I bit the bullet and took the ferry to Seattle, picked up a 12' 1x12" for a little over $12 and bought some other stuff to justify the trip.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hmmm. That's about $5.50/bf- about twice what I pay here for unmilled poplar in eastern PA. That's about par for HD- they tend to have a 100% markup- esp if the wood is milled. There must be some mills/sawyers in WA, I hear they do have a few trees out there...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
You must have missed this part: "I bit the bullet and took the ferry to Seattle, picked up a 12' 1x12" for a little over $12." [a little over $1/BF] Actually, I should be out there ripping it down right now, but here I sit, talking to you, eating popcorn and watching Jurasic Park III. Well, I'm going to do some laundry too, so that's something!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 8/25/2005 12:48 am ET by forestgirl
Sorry- the last part of your message sailed right over my head... (Short Attention Span Theater).
$1/bf is a real bargain (it is real wood??.. if you plane it, make sure that no mdf comes flying out...)Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I think it was $1.09/BF? Somethin' like that (receipt is out in the shop). I get a discount since I have a resale license. This place is great because you don't have to buy 1000 BF or whatever to get the discount.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Forestgirl,
Does that Seattle store have a name?
Crosscut Hardwoods on 1st Ave. South. Where are you located? No locale in your profile.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
BTW: Hubby and I now jokingly refer to "Home Depot's gold-plated poplar."forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hello again,
Here's a picture of the dresser I'm working on. It's been in the basement (tool room)for yrs. As you can see I've used it to store woodworking patterns and extension cords. LOL I'm deperately Trying to make room for my new router table. So the dresser has to go elsewhere.
Wendy
it is very fussy to set up, not really worth it for a one-off item like you're making Sort of but if you keep a scrap of each side for a set-up block does not have to be that way.,..
EXACT.. Just in like other joints you want right!
Must agree with all those that say drawer lock bit and lock miters are fussy. My solution was to take the requisite time and make a series of set-up blocks for my various bits and material thicknesses. With those the set up takes less time than changing the table saw blade with the dado set.
For those bits, as well as many other useful bits, a router table is a must. One with an easily adjustable height setting is ideal.
Pricey bits, blades, tools, etc....get what you pay for. Cheap (less expensive) tools are often replaced with better ones or at least replaced with another cheap tool. The net result being that we are often better served by saving for the preferred tool in the first place. Can't begin to count the number of times I've waited until I could afford the tool I really wanted versus the one I could afford initially.
jmoicbw-bidi
Butch
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