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When milling 1/2″ drawer side material, what size stock do you start with? In other words, are you resawing from thicker stock to yield two 1/2″ pieces or just planing 4/4 stock down to size. One seems wasteful and when resawing, I often get cupping and bowing from internal stresses. Just interested in how others deal with this. Thanks.
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Replies
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Ian,
When using Birch, I re saw from 4/4 using a carbon or spring steel blade, cheap but very little waste, then face joint. A lot depends on the wood type, IMO. I prefer Birch and don't experience cupping. FWIW.
Dano
*Dano, Out of 4/4 you must end up with one 1/2" piece and another thinner piece, right? What do you do with the thinner piece?
*Ian,Correcto mundo. My better half is into wood working in a small way, she finds uses for the off cuts, as do I. Very little goes to "waste" around here. One example that I personaly use them for are dividers within a drawer, cubby hole partitions, etc.If you don't have use for such pieces, perhaps you should consider 5/4 stock.Dano
*Thanks Dano, I've used the thinner "halves" for similar things, also bottoms in small drawers and boxes, but right now I've got more than I'll ever use. I'll give the 5/4 birch a try cause my goal is to get two good drawer sides as economically as possible. I've tried soft maple and poplar, both can do funny things from the bandsaw.
*Ian,You're welcome. Forgive me if I state the obvious but, proper band saw tension and set up is pretty critical. While I don't have a problem re sawing with a carbon steel blade, perhaps a bi-metal one will yield more satisfactory results for you.Dano
*Ian, I've found that if I resaw a piece down the middle and nothing else, it often cups. But, if I resaw and plane --both-- faces of the pieces, they stay uncupped mostly. I theorize that the surface of the wood is often of different moisture level due to humidity level changes (Dallas Texas, it changes pretty much daily).I hope that at least is intelligible.Dave
*Dave,That is a good point. While it doesn't happen very often to me being up in the high desert, when it does I figure it is from internal stress relief. FWIW.Dano
*Dave, That's something to consider. I buy most of my lumber rough. I flatten one side on the jointer, run the other side through the planer, saw the piece down the center and run those new faces through the planer. I left out the edge prep but you get the idea. So I am exposing new wood on all 4 surfaces but as you say, the outer faces could have either dried more or absorbed more moisture than the new inner faces. I may have to start with 6/4 and work it from both sides over time to let it stabilize. It doesn't happen all the time so maybe I've just got a stressed out stack of lumber. Thanks for the input.
*I have found that resawing airdried 5/4 into 1/2" drawer stock is absolutely necessary here in middle Tennessee, even after several months acclimation time in my shop. Internal stresses seem much lower than kiln-dried material, but it's still present. For projects that will see constant use, I prefer maple for drawer sides and slides, to prolong wear, curly for the sides, rock hard for the slides. I have repaired a lot of original pieces that used poplar in these places, all badly worn. It's fun to watch people recoil when they open one of my drawers! (forgive me, this is a test)John
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