Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Oct 23, 2007 05:38am | #1

   g,

           Basically everything is the same with inset applications only set further back from the face to allow the drawer face to flush out with the face . So your slide mounts the normal distance from the face plus the thickness of the face .

              Rev A Shelf brand are wonderful tip out hardware to use .

                good  luck             dusty

1. 
   gcg | Oct 23, 2007 05:45am | #2

   Do you just shim the sides out the same distance the facer frame overhangs the cabinet side? I was thinking there would be a bit of cantilever stress on the screws going into 5/8 particle board and the inside surface is melamine so I can't glue the spaces in place. I was thinking of something made especially for this. I looks like the Blum tandem will work but I can find any spec sheets on their website.

1. 
   oldusty | Oct 23, 2007 07:58am | #3

     Some slides have rear mounted sockets or brackets .

       I build the interior walls out flush or place build outs to the edge of the face ,

        what do you mean you can't glue the spacers  on the Melamine ?????

            You do have Roo Glue or some Melamine glue right ?

                     dusty

                      

   Edited 10/23/2007 2:24 am ET by oldusty

2. 
   mudman | Oct 23, 2007 11:41pm | #4

   Blum tandems with the inset clip.

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   gcg | Oct 24, 2007 03:42am | #5

   Mike,Thanks. I came to that conclusion too last night after pouring over many options and a lot of searching on the internet. What has been your experience with installing these? The only instructions I can find are in the Blum catalog. What I'm most concerned about is placing them correctly depth wise to get the drawer front flush. It seems the only measurement for the setback is given in mm. I went with the 562H 21". With these I got the inset lockers and rear mounting brackets. How do you mark out and place these to be sure they are level? I'm sure I could muscle through it but I thought there my be a little trick people have found through trial and error.

1. 
   mudman | Oct 25, 2007 01:18am | #6

   I just typed out detailed hints about my experiences.... and the darn page gave an error when I posted!

   So here is the short version.

   Blums site has a PDF with all the measurements.

   test fit is a good idea, the holes are not ovalised so the set back needs to be close.

   I use ply spacers to locate a template at the correct height, then cut the spacers as needed for lower drawers.

   Sounds like you are following my motto below. Have fun.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   gcg | Oct 25, 2007 05:21am | #7

   Thanks Mike,I will be going with the ply spacers for even height. Then solid wood blocks to fur out the cabinet sides to flush with the inside edge of the face frame. I figure I can use the same thickness block towards the back of the slide to locate the back bracket laterally.Again the set back is illusive to me. The only pdf I found on the blum website is for the basic brochure with the measurements. I'll look again and if all else fails I'll use the hotline.Thanks again and if you think of anything else, let me know.