Replies

1. 
   BG | Jul 09, 2004 05:17pm | #1

   MBL,

   I cheat.  I shoot for a 1/16" on each side but, invariably, the draw is not perfectly square(off a 1/32nd), or the cabinet is not square...and when they are not square they usually tilt in opposite directions..sigh!  So, I attach thin runners to the cabinet side walls and shim as needed...that also means the cabinet side walls are not flush with the draw opening but are set back about a 1/4".  I'm probably using the wrong terminology but I hope the concept is clear...

   If the walls are already fixed and cannot accept an adjustable runner, I'll fix runners under the draw inside the outside walls of the draw...I'll play with them using double stick tape until perfect and then screw them into the dust panel...

   There is a third way using runners that are built into the draw...and just plane them to perfection....guess which solutions the professionals use.....I think Sagin has this method written up on his web site... good luck 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/9/2004 10:26 am ET by BG

1. 
   MBL | Jul 09, 2004 06:04pm | #4

   "I think Sagin has this method written up on his web site"

   ..........

   Would you please post a URL to study it?

   Thanks.

   -mbl-

1. 
   BG | Jul 10, 2004 02:25am | #5

   mbl,

   http://www.richardjonesfurniture.com/ 

1. 
   MBL | Jul 10, 2004 06:35pm | #8

   Thanks BG.

   Looked at Sagins site but it does not mention drawer fit tolerances.

   Thanks for the comment Woodenthoughts and Rick3DDD.

   Yes, it the construction is solid wood, species expansion and other factors would not allow for a fixed rule.

   On using p.w. and being careful to keep things fairly square and accurate, wil continue with 1/8".

   After finishing, have used a candle to rub the sides of the drawer and the cabinet, and all else where the sliding takes place. That seems to last longer than wax. That idea copied from a european factory cabinet. Except that what they put is probably molten, but it looks like parafin.

   Thanks to all.

   -mbl-

   Edited 7/10/2004 11:40 am ET by mbl

1. 
   SgianDubh | Jul 10, 2004 08:56pm | #9

   mbl, I don't discuss drawer fitting on my website. The site is a vehicle for exhibiting my work to potential furniture buying customers-- an online portfolio.

   It's not really set up to disseminate technical information and tips to other furnituremakers. This would be too bulky and I don't do HTML and other website stuff. I farm these skills out.

   There is a Links/Articles/Exhibitions button in the navigation bar on the left of each of my website's pages. Perhaps BG was thinking of this http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/jones/jones1.shtml linked to on my website. This article doesn't go into too much detail on drawer fitting though. Slainte.RJFurniture

2. 
   MBL | Jul 11, 2004 02:39am | #10

   Thanks for the reply Sgian.

   Looked at everything in your site and all makes good sense.

   Yes, discussing tolerances would be impractical, and since have not seen anywhere a straight guideline, was trying to see if there might be any, like for instance, on recessed doors some say use a dime-coin.

   Looks like even some trade schools don't give students any guideline? (This in relation to the previous comment on graduation projects ending up with some drawers that wouldn't open).

   Unless the guideline be "as close as possible", and let each take it from there?

   -mbl-

2. 
   wundernaloud | Jul 10, 2004 10:58am | #6

   I start out with the  front and back of the draw the same size as the opening. then I fit the draw front so that it just barely fits the opening leave the back the same size except of course for the height to allow for the bottom. Next cut the sides to match the the drawer height. Cut dovetails and assemble the drawers. Now I slide the drawer in from the back, because the back of the drawer has not been sized to the opening it will begin to stick at some point  and when it begins to stick i mark it take it out and start hand planeing until the draw slides in from the back all the way home. If your carcass sides arent flush with the drawer sides  because of design incorporate a side to the drawer runner. When I do this I actually leave the sides of the runner narrower then the opening and then taper them out towards the back and flush at the front. This allows me to tweak the fit so the drawer actually slows down as you pull it out preventing you from accidently pulling the drawer all the way out. This is time consuming and requires a bit of hand work but once you have experinced a drawer that fits this way acheiving it becomes an addiction.

2. 
   notDusty | Jul 09, 2004 05:25pm | #2

                   mbl,

     Your exact answer may depend on the system you are using to slide the drawers on. Also if the drawers are flush inset or overlay type. I would take a guess and say they are inset. That being the case are the drawer sides made of solid stock or what. I have made the drawer face just shy of the opening and a bit wider than the drawer box, this gives you a bit of inside clearance while keeping the margin around the face tight.You can stack quite a few dollar bills in an 1/8" . IMO a dollar bill is not enough room for seasonal movement of the material , maybe around the face ends but more on top and the bottom , would be safer . With inset doors made too tight in a piece with a back you actually get a air lock , it really becomes too tight and may not shut easily especially with free swinging hinges.

                    good luck                          dusty

1. 
   MBL | Jul 09, 2004 05:59pm | #3

   Friend,

   This'd be on all wood cabinetry, no hardware.

   The use of 1/8" came from inspecting an old cabinet with drawers that worked quite well, and have been happy with that rule, not tried for less than that yet.

   This question is from reading another post on 'piston-fit', and dollar-bill tolerances.

   Am planning to make a drawer chest next week and might consider less than 1/8". Is there any guide-line from pro's?

   This'd be using plywood, all flat inside, drawers about 24" wide or so, 5 inches high, 18" deep.

   Thanks.

   -mbl-

3. 
   RickL | Jul 10, 2004 04:41pm | #7

   It depends somewhat on the wood species as some expand more than others but when the local art furniture school was graduating it's latest bunch of budding furniture makers in the summer show at the local gallery most of the drawers on their projects wouldn't open.

4. 
   joinerswork | Jul 11, 2004 03:06am | #11

   mbl,

   I like to size the drawer front to just be a slip fit into the drawer opening (side to side). The drawer back I make 1/16" looser.  When cutting dovetails, I have the pins project thru the drawer sides approx 1/32", to have something to trim. (When cleaning up the assembled drawer,I'd rather pare off the pins than plane the sides down flush.)  This yields a drawer that is tapered 1/16" front to back, with a 1/16" of slop at the front, and 1/8" at the back. 

   The height of the gap at the front will vary with the width of the drawer front (to allow for more movement in deeper drawers), and with the season of the year (for example,  allow for more swelling if building in the winter).  I generally make the sides 1/16" or so narrower than the front, and I like to have the drawer back 1/4" lower than the sides.  This gives a full drawer  some additional leeway to keep from jamming if overstuffed  with papers, for instance.

   I allow more room for seasonal movement since the time the bottom drawer of a chest on chest I'd built bound up.  My client called me saying that the drawer had gotten locked, and wouldn't open. When I checked it out, the drawer had swelled to the point that it was jammed tightly in the opening.

   Good luck,

   Ray