Replies

1. 
   DP | Jul 06, 2002 04:49pm | #1

   Mike Dunbar's book, 'Restoring, Tuning, and using Classic WoodworkingTools', has an excellent section on selecting, sharpening and using draw knives. 

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jul 07, 2002 09:04am | #2

   Leonard Lee's book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening, also addresses drawknives.

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Jul 08, 2002 06:27am | #3

   DP, can you turn me on to a source for Mike Dunbar's book?  thanks,  DOUD

1. 
   nhlett | Jul 09, 2002 01:32pm | #5

   I found a copy of Dunbar's book at my local library. If you want to buy try http://www.astragalpress.com/astragal_cat_restoretuneuse.htm

   Warning thou, it's easy to get carried away. This site is dedicated to woodworking.

   Peter 

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Jul 09, 2002 04:51pm | #6

   thanks,  books and reference are one expense I do not begrudge,  unlike electricity and food - DOUD

2. 
   DP | Jul 09, 2002 07:37pm | #7

   Sorry to take so long to reply.  Was off doing other things.  You can get the book from Amazon.com or directly from Mike through his website, http://www.mikedunbar.com.

2. 
   BenM | Jul 08, 2002 07:15pm | #4

   Dunbar's book, mentioned above, is recommended.  A properly sharpened edge will have one beveld side and one flat side.  But, unlike a chisel, the flat side should be slightly dubbed so it too has a bevel (but very small!).  This helps control the tool much better than if it were perfectly flat.

   Your biggest problem may be sharpening the blade because the handles get in the way.  I took a piece of 2"x10" and notched one edge out to hold the sharpening stone (with a wedge).  Then you can get good pressure on the blade.  Some sources will tell you to hold the drawknife like a violin and move the stone over the blade, but this never worked for me.  But try that too.

   To use a drawknife most efficiently you also need a shavehorse, but that's for another thread.